What Should You Do With That Old Retirement Plan?

August 18, 2016

One of the questions I get from time to time on our financial helpline is what someone should do with their retirement plan when they leave a job. They often end up simply leaving the plan there, but that’s not always the best choice. Let’s look at the options:

Leave the money there. This is typically allowed as long as you have at least $5k in the plan. If you’re retired, you may be able to take periodic withdrawals. It’s the simplest choice because it requires no action from you.

Some good reasons to leave the money there are because you want to have access to a unique investment in the plan or you’d like to pay a lower tax on the appreciation of any employer stock in the plan when you eventually withdraw it. Otherwise, you’re probably better off rolling into another retirement plan to consolidate your accounts and provide you with more investment options. You’ll also have to take a required minimum distribution from each 401(k) and 403(b) you have at age 70 1/2 (unless you’re still working there).

Take the money and run. You can have them send you a check for the balance. However, you’ll have to pay taxes (plus potentially a 10% penalty if you’re under age 55 or if you’re under age 59 ½ and you left your employer before the year you turned 55) on it. If it’s a large enough distribution, that money could also put you in a higher tax bracket.

Roll it over. If you don’t want to leave the money behind or send a big check to Uncle Sam, rolling it into a new retirement account allows you to continue postponing the taxes on it. An IRA generally gives you more investment options while rolling it into your employer’s plan can allow you to consolidate your retirement accounts and possibly give you the option  of borrowing against it. If you change your mind, the money you roll into your employer’s plan can typically be rolled into an IRA and vice versa.

Turn it into guaranteed income. Some plans allow you to use your retirement plan balance to purchase an immediate income annuity at discounted rates (and hence you’d get higher payments) or even into a pension plan if you have one. This provides an income that you can’t outlive and avoids any early withdrawal penalties. The downside is that you generally give up the lump sum of money and should only be considered when you’re ready to retire.

Personally, I’d roll my 401(k) into my IRA if I were to leave Financial Finesse because I’d like to have more investment options. I also know people who prefer to keep things simple by rolling everything into their current employer’s plan. If you’re still not sure what to do, consider speaking to an unbiased financial professional.

 

Why Health Savings Accounts Are Such a Great Deal

August 10, 2016

Health savings accounts have been around for several years now, but we still find that there are plenty of people out there who don’t understand how they work or why they can be such a great deal. We are lucky enough to have access to them at Financial Finesse and my colleagues with great health and relatively little expenses simply love the plan. Here’s why: it’s a high-deductible plan connected to a health savings account (HSA), a plan type that is becoming more and more common as traditional insurance premiums continue increasing.

In our case, our company pays lower premiums because we have to spend $3,500 each year before the insurance even begins to cover us. That doesn’t sound like a great deal for us employees though, huh? That’s what a lot of people originally think too. But the other side is that our employer uses the savings to put $2,500 each year into a health savings account for each of us that we can then use to pay that $3,500 deductible. As a result, we would only have to pay an additional $1,000 to reach the deductible, and that’s only after our healthcare costs exceed $2,500.

The best part is that we pay no taxes on this money and unlike FSAs, we get to keep whatever we don’t spend in our account. That doesn’t mean you can take the money and splurge it on a nice vacation (at least not without paying taxes plus a 20% penalty on it). But it does mean you can invest that money in your HSA tax-deferred until age 65, when you can then spend it on retirement without penalty, use it tax-free for medical expenses (which Fidelity estimates will be about $245,000 over the remaining lifetime of a 65-yr old couple without retiree health insurance), or just let it continue to grow tax-deferred.

The interesting thing is that it changes your whole view on health spending. Normally, you probably just go to the doctor when you feel sick and don’t think much about costs since someone else (the insurance company directly and your employer indirectly through higher premiums) is paying. Think about how you’d spend if other areas of your life worked that way (as someone who loves to eat out, I wish my company provided us food insurance). Instead, when the dentist asks when the last time you had your x-rays done, you’re more likely make sure you know the answer before paying for x-rays you don’t need.

Annual wellness visits are free of charge by law. If you rarely get sick, you may not have to spend any money at all while still keeping up on your vital visits (and banking those employer contributions). You can also use your HSA for medical expenses as well as on your spouse and dependents even if they’re not covered on your health insurance plan.

Another thing I love about HSAs is that an individual at my company can also add another $850 to it each year since the limit is $3,350 per year for a single person. If you have the deposits deducted from your paycheck, you also don’t have to pay the 7.5% payroll tax on it. Not even 401(k) contributions let you do that. When you consider that HSAs offer you both pre-tax contributions AND the potential for tax-free withdrawals, there’s an argument for funding it even ahead of your 401(k) (after you’ve maxed the match, obviously) or IRA.

So what’s not to love? Apparently not much. With two caveats: make sure you have at least enough cash on hand to pay each year’s out-of-pocket maximum and if you have latent health conditions like I do, consider switching to a lower-deductible plan when your healthcare needs are projected to grow.

 

 

The DIY Financial Checkup

August 08, 2016

When is the last time you had a financial checkup? Just like physical exams, regular financial exams lead to better overall financial health. While you can’t give yourself a thorough doctor’s exam, you can give yourself a comprehensive financial checkup with today’s abundance of useful online financial planning tools.

The first step in your diagnosis is to get all your important information organized in a central place. Some of this may be in paper form and some of it online. Gather these resources in advance so you have them on hand:

-your employee benefits such as retirement accounts, health/dental/vision insurance, disability insurance, HSA account, flexible spending accounts, commuter accounts, etc.

-the last month’s bank and brokerage account statements, including taxable accounts, IRAs and annuities

-a recent paycheck and your W4 (YTD cash flow statement if you are self-employed)

-estate planning documents, e.g., will, trust, power of attorney, healthcare directive

-additional insurance policies, e.g., homeowner’s, auto, umbrella liability, life, disability

-mortgage statement

-credit card statements, student loans, car loans, etc.

-financial plan, if you have one

-your budget, if you have one

What’s your financial position?

Pull together a summary of everything you own and everything you owe. (Download an easy net worth and budget worksheet here.) Subtract what you owe from what you own. That’s called your “net worth.”

Is your net worth positive or negative? Has it increased or decreased since the last time you calculated it and by what percentage? As my fellow planner Kelley Long says, “Your net worth is the ultimate measure of your ability to weather financial storms and maintain financial choices in life. The higher your net worth, the more financial freedom you can afford.”

Next, calculate your debt to income ratio by dividing your monthly gross pay by your total monthly recurring debt payments (mortgage, credit cards, student loans, car loans, etc.) The lower your debt to income ratio is, the better your financial position. FYI, mortgage lenders often look for a total debt to income ratio of no more than 36% of gross income.

Do you have sufficient cash reserves?

According to our 2016 Financial Stress Research, good cash management is the biggest differentiator between those workers who have no financial stress and those who have overwhelming financial stress. The foundation of cash management is a solid emergency fund to deal with inevitable unexpected events that happen to all of us. While the common guidance is to have at least three to six months in living expenses in savings or money market funds, it’s also important to make sure you have enough additional cash on hand to handle health, auto and property insurance deductibles as well as home and auto repairs. Bankrate.com has a helpful emergency savings calculator to figure out exactly how much you should keep in liquid savings. If your emergency fund could use some work, use this daily savings calculator to figure out how small savings, like $5 or $10 per day, can add up to a big cash cushion over time.

Could you survive a financial earthquake?

The purpose of insurance is to protect you and your family against catastrophic loss. The big idea behind insurance is that people pool their risks of catastrophic events. If you do suffer a loss and are adequately insured against it, you can be restored to your financial position before the loss. Do you have the insurance you need? Here are some guidelines for determining if you are sufficiently covered:

Health insurance – Everyone needs it, no excuses. If you don’t have health insurance, get it right away.

Disability income insurance – How would you pay the bills if you couldn’t work due to injury or illness? Many employers offer short and long term disability insurance. Make sure you take advantage of them during your next open enrollment period. This is particularly important if you are single or if you are the sole breadwinner in the family. To determine how much coverage you need and whether a supplemental policy is in order, use this calculator.

Life insurance – If someone else depends on your income for their living expenses, you need life insurance. There are different methods for determining how much insurance is ideal. For most people, the less expensive term insurance meets their needs. Use this calculator or download this worksheet to see if your coverage fits your situation. Subtract the coverage provided by your employer to determine what you need to purchase on your own.

Homeowner’s insurance – Per the Wall Street Journal, your homeowner’s insurance should provide enough to rebuild and furnish your home if it were wiped off the map. Does your policy reflect the current value of your home, any improvements you have made to it plus the cost to replace its contents? Basic homeowner’s policies do not cover you for things like floods and earthquakes. If those are common in your region, you may need to add specific coverage.

Renter’s insurance – Not a homeowner? When I was a young professional in Washington, D.C., my apartment was burglarized twice. Only then did I purchase renter’s insurance. Renter’s insurance covers the value of the stuff in your apartment that belongs to you like furniture, clothing and electronics. If the value of all those items exceeds the insurance deductible, consider renter’s insurance to cover your valuables.

Umbrella liability insurance – According to fellow planner Scott Spann, most people facing a judgment from civil litigation probably assume that their homeowner’s or auto policy would cover them. Low cost umbrella liability coverage provides an additional layer of protection in the case of a civil lawsuit. Consider policy coverage that is at least twice your net worth – more if you are a high earner.

Are you on track to replace 80% of your income in retirement?

Running a retirement calculator is like stepping on a scale. It is best done regularly in order to compare your results to your goal. Download our easy to use retirement estimator here.

While you may have run retirement estimates before, results can change depending on economic conditions. Review and update your assumptions about your savings rate, inflation and rate of return. For example, a recent report from McKinsey and Company suggests that investors may need to lower their sights, projecting that U.S. stock market returns over the next two decades could be between 4 and 6.5% annually.

If you’re not on track, what can you do to increase your retirement savings? Can you increase your contributions to a 401(k) or other employer-sponsored plan? Sign up for the contribution rate escalator. Contribute to a Roth or traditional IRA. According to our CEO, Liz Davidson, you can set yourself up for success by automating a process that would otherwise require a lot of effort and sacrifice.

How are you handling your taxes?

Did you get a big refund or owe a large sum on your most recent tax return? It may be time to adjust your withholding. This IRS withholding calculator can help you figure out the right number of allowances to claim.  Additionally, are you taking full advantage of tax-deferred retirement accounts, your health savings account, and flexible spending accounts? Make a list of what you need to change during your next open enrollment period.

Do your investments fit your situation?

Do you have a written plan to guide your investing decisions? If not, consider putting together an investment policy statement using this easy guide. Start by updating your risk tolerance by downloading this worksheet.

Has anything changed with your willingness or ability to take investment risk, your time horizon or your required rate of return? What about your inflation expectations or the kind of investments you are willing to make? Evaluate your current portfolio to see if it meets your updated goals and make changes if it doesn’t.

How much do your investments cost you in fees? Calculate your fees both as a flat dollar amount and as a percentage of your portfolio. Do you think you are getting your money’s worth?

Hint: if they are higher than 1%, consider changing brokerage firms or moving to lower fee alternatives such as index funds. Thinking about doing it yourself? Check out this blog post from fellow planner Erik Carter on how to save and invest on your own without getting eaten alive.

What happens to all this when you die?

Has anything changed since you first put together your estate plan? Take a look at all your retirement accounts and insurance policies and make sure your beneficiary designations reflect your current situation. Second, review your will and other estate planning documents such as a living trust, durable power of attorney, healthcare directive and guardianship provisions. Are the documents current and reflective of your wishes? What needs to be brought up-to-date?

Don’t have an estate plan? Follow these simple seven steps. Even if you do have a current estate plan, you may still need to develop a digital estate plan to express your wishes about what happens to your digital life.

Did you give yourself a financial checkup? How did it work out? Let me know by emailing me at [email protected]

A Debate on 401(k) Loans

August 04, 2016

Asking questions and challenging assumptions are important components of financial self-defense. That’s why I was glad to see one reader take the time to raise some interesting points contesting some of what I wrote a couple of weeks ago in a blog post called “The Hidden Downsides of a 401(k) Loan.” Since other readers may have similar concerns, I thought it would be useful to address them. Besides, I love a good, friendly debate! Here are the 401(k) loan downsides from the original post, the reader’s critiques, and my responses:

Downside #1: You lose out on any earnings:

Critique: “You are wrong because the 401(k) loan continues to be a plan asset – bearing a fixed rate of interest. Instead, you should have encouraged her to reallocate so as to maintain her asset allocation (equity position) – treating the 401(k) loan principal as the fixed income investment it is.”    

My Response: Yes, it’s true that the 401(k) loan continues to earn a fixed interest rate, but that’s interest you’re paying yourself. If you take money out of your savings account and then pay it back with “interest,” I wouldn’t call that earnings. Reallocating the remainder of your 401(k) balance is an interesting idea though that could help make up for the lower earnings.

Downside #2: Your payments may be higher.

Critique: “Are you seriously suggesting that a cash advance using a credit card (with interest rates of 15% – 30% or more) is a better liquidity solution because the minimum monthly payment might be less if you stretch repayment out over 20 – 30 years instead of 5 years?  That is so obviously bad financial advice I don’t know what to say.”     

My Response: I certainly wouldn’t say that a credit card cash advance is generally better than a 401(k) loan. I’m simply pointing out that using a 401(k) loan to pay off high-interest credit card debt could actually increase your cash flow problems because the payments on the 401(k) loan may be higher than the credit card debt.

Downside #3: You also can’t eliminate a 401(k) loan through bankruptcy.

Critique: “Are you are suggesting that when entering into a debt obligation, one consideration should be that if the combination of mortgage, car and 401(k) debt become unsustainable, you should anticipate being able to stiff the creditors? Remember that a plan loan is secured debt, secured with your vested assets. So, you can default on a 401(k) loan anytime you want (just stop repayment) – you don’t even have to declare bankruptcy.  However, I am not sure why you would want to stiff yourself.”

My Response: I’m suggesting that if you’re considering filing for bankruptcy protection, you may not want to use a 401(k) loan to pay off debt that would otherwise be discharged in the bankruptcy. (As for “stiffing creditors,” keep in mind that creditors assume the risk that you may employ this legal protection and charge higher interest rates accordingly.) It’s also hard to default on a 401(k) loan when the payments are withheld from your paycheck.

Downside #4: You may not be able to take another loan.

Critique: “Really. If the plan only provides for a single loan, your recommendation is to borrow all you can and put the amount you did not need at this time into a passbook savings account or a money market fund? That is almost as bad as your recommendation concerning credit card debt. However, I will agree with you that this is one likely result where, based on “expert” advice, plan sponsors amend their plans to limit access to a single loan.”  

My Response: If you’re going to take your only allowable loan and have no other emergency funds, you might want to borrow more than you need and put the remainder in savings. This can help you avoid accruing high interest debt or even worse, missing car or rent/mortgage payments in the event of an emergency. At least with a 401(k) loan, you’re paying yourself the interest.

Downside #5: You may be subject to taxes and penalties if you leave your job.

Critique: “The better response is for the plan sponsor to amend the plan to permit repayment post-separation. In the 21st Century we call this electronic bill payment. Your response confirms that service providers/recordkeepers have failed to keep pace with 21st Century electronic banking functionality.  The other response is to prepare for any potential change in employment by obtaining a line of credit.”

My Response: I agree that plan providers should offer electronic bill payment after leaving employment, but if your employer doesn’t, you need to be aware of the risk of getting hit with taxes and early withdrawal penalties on the outstanding balance. Also, lines of credit can be cancelled. This is even more likely if you lose your job or if the economy is weak, which are two times when you’ll probably need it.

Downside #6: You’re double-taxed on the interest.

Critique: “When you receive a payout of interest earned on investments, it is taxed just like interest on any other fixed income investment. In terms of tax preferences, if you secure the plan loan with a mortgage, the interest you pay on your plan loan may be tax deductible. And, importantly, if the plan loan is secured with Roth 401(k) assets, the interest you pay may be tax free at distribution – just like it would be for the interest received on any other fixed income investment where Roth 401(k) assets were the principal.  So, no, interest is not “double taxed”.”

My Response: I agree with the point about interest from Roth 401(k) accounts not being double-taxed. However, most 401(k) accounts are pre-tax and so the interest will be taxed on the interest when it’s eventually withdrawn. Since that interest was paid by you with money you already paid taxes on, I would call that “double taxed.” That’s one reason why the loan isn’t completely free (the other being the lost earnings from point #1).

Conclusion: The employee I was talking with decided to dip into her savings rather than borrow from her 401(k) due to the double taxation of her interest.

Critique: “Since she could take out multiple loans, there was an “emergency option” even if she borrowed this time. And, assuming the tax status of interest paid to the condo was the same as the tax status of interest paid on a plan loan, the calculation you should have performed was whether, after the loan was repaid, her total net worth (inside and outside the plan) would have been higher. In this case, because the condo rate was 3.75%, she might have been better off using that liquidity option – but nothing in your response suggests you proved which alternative was superior.”

My Response: I do think her choice was the most likely to maximize her net worth the interest she gave up on her savings was less than the the 3.75% the non-401(k) loan would cost her and what her 401(k) could be expected to earn (plus the taxes on her interest payments). That’s why she made the decision she did.

Final point: Finally, don’t forget that the real purpose of your 401(k) is retirement.

Critique: “Your suggestion is that people should avoid using plan assets for any purpose other than post-employment income replacement.  However, if you (self-) limit liquidity, people will only save what they believe they can afford to earmark for retirement.  Those who limit their saving by earmarking money for retirement are more likely to fall short of their savings goals. Importantly, reasonable liquidity access has been shown to increase (not reduce) retirement savings.”

My Response: I’m simply saying that you should understand both the pros and cons before taking a 401(k) loan. In some cases, the 401(k) loan may indeed make the most sense. However, I do think that the 401(k) is not the best vehicle if you’re saving for liquidity. After all, putting your emergency money in your 401(k) could leave you short in an emergency since you can generally only borrow up to half of your vested balance (up to $50k) and the loan will have to be paid back at a time when money might be tight. Saving first for emergencies in something more accessible like a savings account is not going to make or break your retirement.

None of this is to say that 401(k) loans are always a good or bad idea. It all depends on the situation. Just make sure you’re making an educated decision even if it means having a little debate with yourself (or a qualified financial professional).

 

 

7 Signs You’re Living Beyond Your Means Even If You Can Pay All Your Bills

August 03, 2016

I’m pretty sure most people understand that the first step in achieving financial security is to spend less than you make. Sometimes easier said than done, but it’s the only way you can save any money and avoid high interest credit card debt. What a lot of people don’t get though is that just because you’re able to pay your bills each month, it doesn’t mean you’re not living beyond your means. If your bank account balance gets dangerously close to zero right before payday, you’re not “getting by,” even if you don’t overdraw and are technically making ends meet. Here are 7 other signs you’re living beyond your means, even if you are able to pay all your bills on time, and what you can do about it:

1. You’re not paying off your credit cards every month or you don’t have a plan in place to pay them off. Use the Debt Blaster to get a plan going and then stick to it.

2. You don’t have an emergency fund. This is your first line of defense against long-term financial issues. Get started on this ASAP.

3. You say you can’t afford to do that thing you really want to do. This was actually the wake-up call for me to realize that I was living beyond my means even though I was making ends meet. I really, really, really wanted an iPad and a new bike, which added up to about $1,000. I said I couldn’t afford it and yet I was spending that amount monthly on dining out and booze. If you tell yourself you can’t afford something you really want, and that thing would be reasonable for someone of your income, lifestyle and life stage to have, that’s a sign you need to examine your spending and start living within your real means.

4. Unplanned expenses like a traffic ticket or a family member’s destination wedding send you into a tailspin. If the first thing you think of when you hear a cousin is getting married at an all-inclusive resort in the Caribbean is, “How rude! I don’t have the money for that!” you are not “making it” financially. There needs to be wiggle room in your cash flow for things like this. Here’s a good way to plan for it.

5. You’re taking out 401(k) loans to pay off other bills. Even though you’re paying interest to yourself, this is still a form of debt. If you’re borrowing against your savings, you’re not living within your means.

6. You’re not on track to retire at 65. Ideally, you’d be financially able to retire before you are mentally ready, but 65 is a good age to shoot for if you’re still in the earlier parts of your career. Here’s how to find out if you’re on track. If you’re not, the earlier you start saving, the sooner (and easier) you’ll get on track.

7. A job loss or medical emergency would severely alter your future. If going without even just one paycheck would send you into late fees with all your bills, it’s time to get a system in place that helps you save for these unexpected events.

The best and easiest times to escape the paycheck-to-paycheck lifestyle is when you experience any type of windfall like a tax refund, an unexpected bonus or even just your annual single-percentage increase at work. Be strategic with that money and use it to find some space in your finances, rather than just adjusting your spending to match. You don’t have to wait for a windfall to do this though. Even just a small change each day that you mindfully use to put away a little extra adds up.

 

Are You Taking Good Things Too Far?

July 29, 2016

The latest craze that has swept my family is the Pokémon Go app. My kids run around trying to “catch” Pokémon at different locations. I’m happy they are outside and active, but I have to admit that I don’t have the foggiest idea why they consider this even remotely fun. They walk around and occasionally ask me to take them to a nearby neighborhood so that they can catch these things. (I use “catch” liberally because it’s all virtual, with no one really catching anything.)

They can catch their Pokémon thingies while I sit at an outdoor table at a local coffee shop. I find it a little strange, and in a horrible twist to this silly game, criminals are now setting up shop near Pokémon characters and robbing unsuspecting game players. What started as a fun thing has turned into a fun thing that needs to be used with caution because of some unanticipated consequences. A lot of things that start out as a purely positive have some unintended consequences that create some negativity.

I’ve seen that with a few people recently. I’ve had two meetings with people who are doing a wonderful job of saving for retirement. They ran retirement projections and learned that they needed to pick up the pace as it relates to saving for retirement. They cranked their contribution percentage WAY up so that they could catch up to where they think they should be. That is 100% admirable, and they are operating with the best of intentions.

Their unintended consequences? Both of them are saving so aggressively in their 401(k) that they are struggling with day-to-day cash flow. One is depleting his savings account on a monthly basis just to cover basic living expenses, and the other is using a credit card for groceries in the last few days before her paydays. A noble effort to save for retirement has taken a somewhat sinister turn in these examples, and I’ve had to have a few “I applaud your effort, but maybe it’s one step too far….” conversations.

The good news is that they realized that they may have gone a bit too far, and when we talked about bringing the 401(k) contributions down just a bit in order to make day-to-day cash flow a bit more manageable, they were completely receptive. In each conversation, we had a nice laugh at how some good things can be taken too far. (If you don’t believe that, see how many chocolate chip cookies you can eat before you start to feel like it’s been one too many.)

The lesson here for all of us is that after a few cookies, it makes sense to stop and catch your breath. The other lesson is that some great financial behaviors can be taken to an extreme. Are you saving so much for retirement that you aren’t able to enjoy the here and now? I’ve heard so many stories about people depriving themselves of life experiences in order to save for retirement, only to die just prior to retiring. Are you spending so much in the here and now and enjoying life experiences that you are woefully behind the curve for your retirement goals?

Neither is a good place to be. What’s the old phrase? ”In all things, moderation.”

Even good financial behaviors should be used in moderation! If you’re wondering if you’re taking something just a bit too far, chances are that you are. Whether you ask a financial professional or just hit our Facebook page and ask, get another perspective on your situation to make sure that you have all of the moving parts in your financial life working together.

 

Should You Buy Whole Life Insurance?

July 27, 2016

One of my favorite parts of being an unbiased financial planner is that I have the opportunity to answer questions for family and friends as well, with no concern as to whether there is a conflict of interest or a loss of earning opportunity. I love it when people ask me for help making their decisions. It’s what I do every day, and it’s why I’m in this business in the first place.

A friend recently asked for my thoughts on a whole life insurance policy that she was being pressured to buy after meeting with an agent to discuss disability and term life insurance. She was pretty sure that whole life was bad since that was the thing the agent was pushing the most, which is a definite red flag. If someone is trying to sell you something that you don’t understand, and they’re unwilling to take the time to educate you on why it’s the right thing for you, JUST SAY NO. However, in this case, the answer isn’t cut and dry. This is basically how I answered the question:

The big downside to whole life policies is that they tend to have high fees, especially in the first couple years, when the agent makes their big bucks off commissions. (This post explains a little more about the intricacies and the different types of life insurance.) Whole life insurance is most appropriate for higher income people who are wealthy enough that all their other tax-advantaged ways to save money are being fully utilized.This means that:

1. You and your spouse are both maxing out your workplace retirement savings plans. ($18,000 if you’re under age 50, $24,000 if you’re over. The limits can be higher for self-employed people who have a SEP-IRA).

2. If you have an HSA due to high-deductible health insurance, you’re putting the full $3,400 (for individuals) or $6,750 (for families) into those accounts.

3. You are maxing a Roth IRA (using the “back door” method, if necessary and applicable).

4. You have no debt besides a mortgage, car loan, and possibly student loans as long as the rate is 3% or less.

5. You have at least 6 months of expenses set aside in a savings account.

6. You feel like you have enough extra money every month to do the stuff you want to do within your lifestyle values like travel, caring for pets, entertainment, etc. and you can adequately fund things that might pop up like medical procedures, etc.

If all of those financial needs are either met or you’re on track to meet them, and a whole life policy premium wouldn’t derail them, then they can be a decent investment that can fulfill the “fixed income” part of your long-term investments. That’s how the agent I purchased my small policy from described it. I also decided to purchase my whole life policy because there was a strong chance I may not qualify for long-term care down the road due to blood clot issues (and ironically enough, I got a blood clot exactly one week after my policy was accepted for underwriting – timing was impeccable, and my policy had a cheap rider for that coverage). Here’s how we looked at it:

The annual premium for at least the first 5 years is equal to an amount that we would typically be saving in a bond fund or other less-risky investment anyway. The policy builds a guaranteed cash value and based on the projection of the cash value’s growth, we would break even (aka the cash value would equal and then exceed the total amount of premiums we’d paid in to date) after 13 years. The real question then was whether we would otherwise take that money and save it some other way.

Since the answer was yes, we went with making this a small part of our overall investment savings strategy. Once I’m 65, we no longer have to pay premiums and at that point, we could borrow against the policy and use the cash value as we needed. It’s actually a great way to invest tax-deferred, as long as it’s truly looked at as a long-term investment.

Could we take that money and invest it in a bond index fund for lower fees and expenses? Sure, but there’s no guarantee on the growth of that money, and should I meet an early death (heaven forbid!), my policy would pay its full face value starting from the day we made the first premium payment. It’s worth it to us.

Post was updated 3/9/17 for current savings limits.

Kelley Long is a resident financial planner with Financial Finesse, the leading provider of unbiased workplace financial wellness programs in the US. For more posts by Kelley or to sign up to have her weekly post delivered to your inbox each Wednesday, please visit the main blog page and sign up today.

 

 

Anatomy of an Investment Mistake

July 22, 2016

I saw an email from a soon-to-be-retired employee recently, saying that he thought that he made an investing mistake and was looking for some help in correcting it. Here’s the mistake he made. When the stock market tumbled for a couple days because of the British exit from the E.U. (Brexit), he jumped out of the stock market. He moved his portfolio from 60% stocks/40% bonds and cash to 100% stable value because he was afraid the market would continue to drop like it did in 2008.

Well, after two days of going down, the market went back up and within two weeks, it was higher than it was the day before Brexit. The question he asked was “When should we get back in: when it drops to the level when we got out or lower?” There are a few flaws in his thought process.

Issue #1: Selling (or buying for that matter) based on emotions and news events usually ends poorly. In not too distant memory, we have seen the dot-com bubble burst, 9/11, Enron, the housing market collapse, the stock market collapse of ’08 and an economy that is 7+ years into one of the most lackluster recoveries ever, and the stock market is near all time highs! Markets go up. Markets go down. But over time, there has historically been an uptrend given enough time.

One of the things I tell people when they are worried about how the market will respond to a news event is “emotions are the enemy of good decision making.” Yeah, it’s not inspirational. It doesn’t rhyme, and it’s not all that compelling as a standalone statement. But it’s true, and I’ve seen it have horrible consequences for people time and time again.

If you are thinking about changing your investment mix based on a news event, don’t! Go take a nice walk, turn off the TV, play your favorite tunes and let some time pass. Markets overreact…in both directions. If there is a huge sell-off on Monday, chances are that logic and reason will come back into the market, and there will be a few up days after a massive sell off.

Cool your jets and maintain your long term asset allocation. Talk with a financial professional if you have one in your life. Don’t let your emotions be the enemy of your decision making process.

Issue #2: In his question, he assumes that the market will, one of these days, be lower than when they sold off the stock portion of their accounts.  It may never be that low again. People who sold in ’08 and wanted to buy back in when the market got that low again are still sitting around waiting for that to happen. Their wait may be eternal (or not).

The logical flaw in this argument is a lot like the “sunk cost fallacy.” You’ve already made the sell decision and are now tied to the results of that decision emotionally. Looking into the rear view mirror isn’t helpful in this case. Look forward. It’s a difficult skill to apply, but don’t allow yourself to fall into the sunk cost fallacy.

Issue #3: The reason he sold off a big chunk of his 401(k) and went to stable value is that he is considering retirement in the not too distant future. It makes sense to want to be more conservative in that case but it’s too drastic of a change. If he had been considering retirement for some time now, maybe a few years ago would have been an appropriate time to start making small changes to his long term asset allocation.

For instance, I meet annually with someone who has a retirement goal of 12-15 years. She was 100% stocks and 0% bonds and cash when we first met 5-6 years ago. Rather than selling her existing holdings, she changed her future 401(k) contributions to 75% bonds/cash and 25% stocks. She recently moved future contributions to 100% bonds/cash, and when she hears that the stock market hits a new high, she moves 1% of her account to stable value. Her goal is to be at 50% stocks, 50% bonds/cash at and during retirement.

Do you know your long term asset allocation preferences? Do you have a plan in place to shift from where you are now to where you want to be when you’re 98 years old? Review your asset allocation today, see if it’s consistent with your investment risk tolerance and then develop a plan to get from point A to point B over the course of time. Remain patient and don’t let emotions get in the way.

Over the course of time, we all make mistakes. I have, you have, and the odds are high that we’ll make even more in the future. But some mistakes are preventable, and we can hopefully learn from the mistakes of others so that we don’t make them as well. If you can remain emotionally detached from your investments when bad news is happening, avoid the sunk cost fallacy and have a clear vision about your long term investment strategy (and stick to it), you will put yourself in a great position for long term financial success.

 

 

Five Fantastic Summer Money Reads

July 11, 2016

 

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What if you headed to the beach this summer with a great book that could change your life? Would that be worth a few afternoons of reading (especially if you’ve got your feet up, drinking the beverage of your choice)? I am a voracious reader of finance books, some for the blog and some just for my own learning. Many of them just rehash the same old content – not the books on this list! Consider stocking up on some of these perspective-changing, personal finance page-turners for the summer months:

Pensionless: The 10 Step Solution for a Stress-Free Retirement

Before I picked up U.S. News and World Report editor and columnist Emily Brandon’s excellent book to read, I was struck by the title, Pensionless: The 10 Step Solution for a Stress-Free Retirement. That term, “pensionless,” summarizes exactly where millions of Baby Boomers and Generation Xers find themselves in the age of disappearing defined benefit plans and having to shoulder the entire burden of saving for retirement. Brandon breaks down this elephant into bite-sized pieces, with a chapter each on the ten most important steps to funding a secure retirement and avoiding actions that could blow up that security. Her journalist’s eye for making it clear and simple serves the reader well, particularly her guidance on Social Security and Medicare. Follow her guidelines, and while you may still not have the endangered species of the company-provided pension, you’ll have a solid retirement nest egg.

Smart Mom, Rich Mom: How to Build Wealth While Raising A Family

The other day we received a glossy, die cut, colorful solicitation from a global insurance company informing us of their comprehensive homeowner’s insurance for fine homes. Did my husband want a complimentary lifestyle and insurance review? Wait a minute! We own this home together. Why did the insurance solicitation address him independently?

There’s still the assumption that men make the important financial decisions. In her new book, Smart Mom, Rich Mom: How to Build Wealth While Raising A Family, financial journalist Kimberly Palmer turns that assumption upside down. Her no-nonsense, funny personal finance guide for moms offers wisdom for women in every life stage.

This is, in many ways, a book about being in a relationship while navigating both your personal and your family economy without losing yourself. Palmer takes on some tough subjects with wit and humor, like how couples can split up financial responsibilities, the terror that can accompany a choice to be a stay-at-home parent, and the pull of saving for your children’s college while you are also saving for retirement. Each chapter includes useful action steps to put your decisions into practice.

Feel Rich Project: Reinventing Your Understanding of True Wealth to Find True Happiness

Financial Life Planner and columnist Michael F. Kay, CFP® is out to inspire you to feel rich. He believes that if you feel truly rich, e.g., your actions are aligned with your deepest values, you’ve got a much more realistic shot at setting the right financial goals for you – and knowing when you achieve them. Unlike so many financial authors who offer you the money version of a fad diet book, Kay dives deeply into the way personal beliefs and values drive financial behavior. The Feel Rich Project: Reinventing Your Understanding of True Wealth to Find True Happiness offers 10 chapters of thought-provoking exercises designed to uncover and reboot your beliefs about money. This book is best accompanied with a blank notebook and a good pen, as you write your way to your true north.

As I write this post, my eight year old son is looking over my shoulder, begging me for a new pair of $80 Steph Curry high top sneakers because, “everyone is getting new shoes for the end of the school year.” He’s eight! I’m not surprised, though. Our kids face a tsunami of consumer messages that tell them they must buy something now.  How can parents keep materialism at bay?

The Opposite of Spoiled: Raising Kids Who are Grounded, Generous and Smart About Money

New York Times columnist Ron Lieber, a parent himself, has written a practical guidebook for teaching kids about money and values, The Opposite of Spoiled: Raising Kids Who are Grounded, Generous and Smart About Money. In it, he takes on modern parenting behaviors, such as giving extravagant tooth fairy gifts or discouraging teenagers from working, as ways parents inadvertently give their children messages which undermine their financial success as adults. Lieber covers everything your kids are asking about: allowances, designer clothing, part-time jobs, cell phones, birthday parties, etc. in a witty and approachable way.

If you’ve got kids or are thinking of having them, The Opposite of Spoiled will change the way you think about your own money habits and what you’re teaching your children. As for my son, the answer on the sneakers was no (despite my admiration of Curry’s talent). He’ll have to save for them on his own with his allowance.

What Your Financial Advisor Isn’t Telling You: 10 Essential Truths You Need To Know About Your Money

Did you know that with a modest income, you could become an automatic millionaire by taking full advantage of your employee benefits at work or that your choice of partner is the most important financial decision you’ll ever make? In What Your Financial Advisor Isn’t Telling You: 10 Essential Truths You Need To Know About Your Money workplace financial wellness pioneer and our Financial Finesse CEO Liz Davidson shares ways to find your own financial security, maximize your employee benefits for your unique situation and practice financial self defense. The book comes with a companion website, where you can find the resources cited in the book, as well as ways to join the Financial Independence Day Community and create your own peer-to-peer learning group.

What’s your favorite summer money read? Send me your suggestions at cynthia.meyer@financialfinesse .com. You can also tweet them to me @cynthiameyer_FF.

Use These 5 Tricks to Keep Online Shopping in Check

July 06, 2016

When was the last time you indulged in a bit of retail therapy? Even the most financially savvy of us are prone to impulse buys at times. Considering the fact that we often end up regretting those splurges, it’s wise to explore this leak in our budgets and try to keep these guilty pleasures from turning very quickly into shameful regrets.

One way I avoid impulse buying is by shopping with a list and avoiding stores like Target when my emotions are high. I’ve noticed that even when I go into certain stores with a very specific buying mission, I find myself wanting to buy something else, even if I have zero needs. Marketing gurus have figured out how to trip our psychological need to consume and those stops are fully pulled out when you walk into any retail outlet. I’m mindful of this and it helps.

My Achilles heel of impulse buying, however, is the Internet. The “avoiding it” option doesn’t exist, so I’ve had to implement other techniques to quell the shopping. Here are a few tips I use to keep online shopping sprees in check:

1. Create a filter for emails. There’s a reason that stores are so generous with discounts offered via email. They work!

Just this morning, I found myself browsing skorts from Athleta because they sent me an email about their semi-annual sale, even though I didn’t wake up thinking, “Hey, I need a new skort.” I don’t want to give up on the opportunity to enjoy coupons and discounts when I DO need something, so I created a filter that directs all my shopping-related emails straight to a folder aptly titled, “Shopping.” Then when I actually do need to buy something, I just check that folder to see if there are any current coupons or discounts in effect (note to self to add a filter for Athleta).

2. Don’t save your card. Make it one step harder to complete a purchase by opting out of storing your credit card information on a retailer’s site. Not only does this hopefully make you think twice if you have to get up and get your card, it could potentially save your card number from hackers. Win-win.

3. Beware the lure of free shipping. If you find yourself going back to shop for one more thing to put you over the mark and qualify for free shipping, stop for a second and do the math. If the one extra thing you buy is less than shipping would cost, then it’s worth it. Otherwise, you’re just spending money on stuff you don’t need to avoid paying less total money. Pay the shipping or skip the purchase altogether.

4. Realize that Facebook isn’t all-knowing. It’s no coincidence that the pair of shoes you were contemplating on the Nordstrom website suddenly show up in your news feed on Facebook. That’s part of what you signed up for when you agreed to Facebook’s terms. They track everything you browse, not just on their site. For this reason, I try to remember to sign out of Facebook when I’m done so that I can both maintain my privacy and avoid temptations the next time I log in.

5. Only shop sober. Do I really need to explain why shopping online after a few glasses of wine is a great way to blow your budget? If you can’t resist the pull of shopping after happy hour, then at least make an agreement with yourself that you’ll leave everything in the shopping cart and complete the purchase in the morning. Deal?

I’m not suggesting that you cut out all online shopping, but if you spent more money last month on purchases that you don’t really need than you saved for retirement (assuming you’re not on track to have enough to retire by age 65), then a change in priorities is necessary. Consider increasing your savings and opening a separate shopping account where you direct deposit a set amount of money you can afford to spend on splurges each month. Just make sure you don’t go beyond that and find yourself in unnecessary credit card debt either.

 

 

Don’t Believe Everything You Hear

July 01, 2016

I’m the kind of person who will always try to listen with an open mind to different points of view and find something to learn from the speaker. I hear a lot of theories that way, some which appear to be myths, superstitions or misinterpretations, and some of which offer a refreshing change in perspective. In many cases, what’s true for most people might not be true for everyone. When sifting through financial advice, make sure to ask yourself if that guidance makes sense for your situation. Here are three common examples of financial guidance where you might want to think about things differently:

Question: I’ve been told that I should always have a mortgage so that I can get the mortgage interest deduction. Is that always true?

My view on it: MYTH

For each $1 in interest they pay the mortgage company, the typical family gets ~$.20 in tax relief (using the tax rate as the real payback number). To me, you lose $.80 on the dollar by paying interest. Plus if you have no mortgage, your embedded cost of living is permanently lower, so your accumulated savings and investment dollars can last a whole lot longer. Financial advisors typically say disciplined, long term investors could do better in the stock market rather than using savings to pay off a mortgage, but I’ve observed that most people prefer to have the peace of mind that comes with low or no debt so I’m not a huge fan of carrying a mortgage just to get a tax deduction.

Question: I should never contribute more to my 401(k) than my company’s matching contribution. Once I reach that, I’m told I should open a Roth IRA. Is that the right choice?

My view on it:  MYTH

Most people I see who try to implement this, forget one critical part – funding the Roth IRA. The problem with this guidance is that many people never get around to funding the Roth IRA every time they get paid. Once their paycheck hits their checking account, it gets accounted for in so many other ways.  I’d prefer to see people shoot for the maximum 401(k) contribution ($18,000 this year, plus $6,000 in catch-up contributions for those over 50) and once they max out the 401(k), THEN contribute to an IRA.

Also, maxing out the 401(k) doesn’t have to be an instant thing. You can increase your contribution level by 1-2%/year until you get there. If you have a rate escalator in your plan, sign up for it today!

Question: If I close out some of my credit cards, that should improve my credit score, right?

My view on it:  MYTH

Well, it’s not that simple! There are a lot of factors that go into your credit score. A few great places to see the multiple factors are CreditSesame.com and CreditKarma.com.

If the credit cards you want to close are relatively new, closing them may help you because it could increase your average “age of credit” (how long your open accounts have been open). But it may decrease your score because it reduces your overall credit limits and if you carry balances, it makes your “utilization ratio” higher. That’s the amount of overall credit balances divided by overall credit limit. Keeping that ratio below 25%, ideally at 0%, will be additive for your credit score. If closing accounts increases your utilization percentage, then closing the accounts can harm your score.

The thing to take away from this is that credit scores are fluid things. They change constantly. But if you take the time to review your scores and factors on the sites above, you will be able to make well informed decisions that impact your credit score.

As you go about living your life, learn how to discern the differences between good, solid personal financial management and misapplied financial principles. How? Ask a financial planning professional, pose a question on our Facebook page or ask me a question in the comments section below. Having the facts on your side can help save you from the many conflicting theories of managing your personal financial life.

 

Can a Computer Replace Your Financial Advisor?

June 30, 2016

If driverless cars can replace your Uber driver, should a computer replace your financial advisor too? This isn’t just speculation. Automated investing services called “robo-advisors” are becoming more popular and even your 401(k) plan may offer an online investment advice program. Let’s start by taking a look at some areas that computers do well when it comes to personal finances:

Expense tracking. Many people use computer programs like Mint and Yodlee MoneyCenter to track their expenses. This can be very helpful if you don’t have the time or inclination to do it yourself.

Insurance needs. Since there can be a lot of variables, a computer program can be very helpful calculating how much insurance you need, especially with life insurance.

Debt payoff. Computers programs can also calculate how long it would take to pay off your debt and the effect of making additional payments.

Credit analysis and monitoring. Online programs like CreditKarma, Credit Sesame, and Quizzle can provide you with a free credit score, advice on improving it, and free credit monitoring.

Retirement and education funding projections. As long as the inputs and assumptions used in the calculation are reasonable, a computer program can do an excellent job here too. In fact, any human financial planner will probably NEED a computer program to calculate whether you’re saving enough for retirement or education expenses. Of course, there are a lot of unknowns but a good program can help you determine if you’re in the ballpark and allow you to measure your progress over time.

Asset allocation. Deciding how to optimize your investment mix is another task that financial planners typically use a computer for. It’s also the quintessential service provided by robo-advisors. The ability to customize your investments around not only your time frame but also your personal risk tolerance and possibly even to minimize your taxes and complement your other investments is one of the advantages of a robo-advisor over a more simple asset allocation fund.

Investment management. A robo-advisor can also add value to a portfolio by automatically rebalancing it periodically. Some robo-advisors even sell losing investments in a taxable account so you can use the losses to offset other taxes.

Simple tax preparation. Programs like TurboTax, TaxAct, and TaxCut are widely used for tax preparation. However, I would suggest using a professional tax preparer if you have a rental property or a business since there’s some judgment involved in knowing which category to classify various incomes and expenses.

Basic estate planning. If you just need basic estate planning documents like a simple will, a durable power of attorney, and an advance health care directive, you can use a computer to draft these documents and even store them online at little or no cost. If you have a more complex family or estate situation, you may want to hire an attorney to draft a trust though.

Account aggregation. Finally, if your financial life involves a lot of the above, you might want to use an account aggregation program to compile all the info in one place.

So what are computers NOT good at?

Getting you to use them in the first place. For example, our research shows that 76% of employees who are not on track for retirement haven’t even run a retirement calculator at all. The fanciest workout equipment won’t do you any good if you don’t actually use them. A financial planner can be like the personal trainer that gets you to go to the gym.

Motivating you to take action after the calculation. Many people run a retirement calculator but then never actually increase their savings enough to get on track. Some programs use a gamification model that can turn action steps into a game, but they aren’t always effective. A good financial planner can both get you to the gym and make sure you actually do the workouts.

Stopping you from sabotaging yourself. How many of us are tempted to overspend on something we don’t need, to make a risky bet with money we can’t afford to lose, or to bail out of our investments during a temporary downturn in the market? Just like a personal trainer can keep us from breaking our diet or over-training to the point of injury, stopping you from making costly mistakes is one of the most important functions of a financial planner. Even the most sophisticated investors can benefit from at least having a second opinion to bounce ideas off of.

This doesn’t necessarily mean that everyone needs a financial planner. You do need to be honest with yourself though. How disciplined and motivated are you when it comes to your personal finances? If you just need the right information to make decisions, a computer can certainly provide that. If you need more, you might need an actual human being.

 

 

How to Protect Your 401(k) After Brexit

June 27, 2016

Will the “Brexit” affect your 401(k)? Global stock markets fell on the news that voters in Great Britain voted narrowly to leave the European Union. Investors don’t like uncertainty, and there will be plenty of that during the next few years as Great Britain and the E.U. sort out the terms of their divorce. Employees are worried, calling our Financial Helpline to ask whether they should react now to protect their retirement savings. Here are some questions to ask to determine what action, if any, is needed:

Does my overall portfolio match my risk tolerance?

Does all the news about the Brexit have you compulsively checking your portfolio during the day? Are you tempted to throw in the towel and put everything in the lowest risk investment possible? If that’s the case, then maybe it would be a good time to double check your investment risk tolerance.

Try downloading our risk tolerance and asset allocation worksheet, a questionnaire which help you determine your risk tolerance and time horizon to get an idea of what investment mix is best for you. Compare the results to your current portfolio mix. If they line up, you don’t need to re-balance. If there is a big discrepancy, you may want to make some changes. This blog post from my colleague Scott Spann, PhD, CFP® offers some guidance on choosing the right investments in your 401(k).

Keep in mind that investing in stocks and bonds always involves some financial risk. Bad days or even years in the stock market are completely normal. However the risk of not investing in stocks and bonds means that the money you save will lose purchasing power over long periods due to inflation (the rising cost of living).

Is my stock portfolio well-diversified by sector?

My fellow planner Cyrus Purnell, CFP® noted that, “Even if you have the right mix of stocks, bonds and cash, it is worth checking to see if your holdings are sector heavy. The Brexit shock is beating up some sectors more than others. If you have stock funds that are focused on financials (banks, brokerage firms and investment managers), you may see more than the average downturn.” International funds focused on Europe are also likely to have some hiccups as Brexit gets sorted out. “If you are running into high concentrations of sectors, consider indexing,” he added.

When is the last time I ran a retirement calculator?

The reason you’re investing in your 401(k) is to build a nest egg for retirement. Measure your success against whether or not you are on track to achieve your retirement goals, not from the highest balance on your 401(k) statement. Now is a great time to run an updated retirement calculator to see if you are on track, given your savings and reasonable projections for your rate of return and inflation. You can use our Retirement Estimator for a basic check in to see if you are on track. You can also use the calculator to model different scenarios using different rates of return to see what happens.

Be realistic in your estimates: recent research from the McKinsey Global Institute suggests investors lower their expectations for average annual US stock returns to 4 to 6.5%. It’s better to use a conservative expected rate of return. If you’re wrong about it, you’ll be happily surprised, but if you’re right, you’ll be adequately prepared.

Do you have a personal finance question you’d like answered on the Monday blog? Please email me at [email protected]. You can also follow me on Twitter at @cynthiameyer_FF

 

3 Numbers That Matter More Than Your Credit Score

June 22, 2016

While knowing your credit score and the elements that impact it is important to your overall financial well-being, I sometimes find that people are overly concerned about it at the peril of other more important financial measurements. Your credit score only really matters when you’re applying for a loan, certain types of insurance and increasingly, when applying for a job. If none of those things are on your horizon, then your score is more like your high school ACT scores – perhaps a point of pride, but pretty irrelevant for the time being. Here are three more important numbers you should be focused on instead:

Net Worth

What is it: Assets (bank accounts, investments, home, car – basically cash or anything you could turn into cash) minus liabilities (credit card balances, car loans, student loans, mortgages, 401k loans – anything you owe).

Ideal number: As high as possible.

Why it matters: Your net worth is the ultimate measure of your ability to weather financial storms and maintain financial choices in life. The higher your net worth, the more financial freedom you can afford. There are countless cases of people who were millionaires on the asset side but broke on the net worth side as cautionary tales of neglecting this important number. Many of these people suffered during the last recession when their debts were called.

How to track it: I calculate my net worth on a monthly basis using Google sheets at the same time I sit down to set up any bill payments for the month. Here’s a snapshot of what it looks like:

Net worth snapshot

One nice side effect of this is the fact that I’m checking on all of my accounts at least once a month, so I can also do a quick check for anything fishy.

Worth noting: I pay all my credit cards off each month, but I include them on this sheet because that’s money I still owe that is reflected in my checking account above. It’s the only way to have a truly clear picture of what I have. I keep things like my student loan and Mini Cooper loan on there both for historical accuracy as well as for the psychological thrill of seeing a big fat ZERO under old debts. It’s a little, “Yay me! Look how far you’ve come!” moment each month.

Retirement Readiness

What is it: The best way to measure whether you’re saving enough to retire comfortably when you want to, especially if you have many years to go until retirement.

Ideal number: On track to replace about 80% of your current income, unless you’re within 5 years of retirement (when you can be more specific about how much you’ll need each year).

Why it matters: Retirement, which really just means transitioning to living off your savings one day, is one financial goal that pretty much all of us share. Whenever anyone asks me what to do with extra money or if they can afford to take on an additional debt payment or savings goal, my first question is, “are you on track for retirement?” Even though it may be one of your longest-term goals, it should be in the top 3 in terms of priorities.

How to track it: There are countless calculators out there, but for people with a 401k or other workplace savings plan, I prefer this Retirement Estimator.

Worth noting: Many people who say they aren’t on track to retire have never run a calculator. Knowing is the first step!

Emergency Fund

What is it: A cash cushion in place to tap into in case of an unexpected loss of income due to job loss or extended illness or injury.

Ideal number: 3 months of expenses, minimum. For single income households or career fields that aren’t as certain, at least 6.

Why it matters: Life happens and when it does, having cash that’s easily accessible takes away much of the financial stress and allows you to focus your energy on finding a job, healing or adjusting to the new normal.

How to track it: If you’re starting from zero, start with a goal of setting three months of rent or mortgage aside. Then tack on three months of your next highest expense and so on until you have all essential expenses covered. Once you’re at three months, make sure you adjust for any changes such as a new home, new baby, etc.

Worth noting: It can be tempting to keep a credit card on hand instead of the cash or want to invest the cash for higher earnings, but resist. Should something happen, consider the probability that it could be due to an economic downturn when credit may not be as easily accessible and/or the stock market could be down. The best place for your emergency fund is in a high yield savings account.

These are the three numbers you want to focus on. Even if you’re not at the ideal numbers yet, you’ll be well on your way to financial freedom if you can find a way to track them on a consistent basis. And you just may find your credit score improving as well.

3 Lessons Millennials Can Learn From Previous Generations

May 26, 2016

With the recent release of our research report on the generations, our current Think Tank Director and former Financial Finesse blogger Greg Ward makes a second appearance to discuss what millennials can learn from previous generations…

I recently received an interesting call from a young woman asking how much the average person her age has saved for retirement. She was 35, and while I understand the nature of the question, I think it is a very bad one to ask. You can search “how much has the average 35 year old saved for retirement” and you’ll find a variety of articles (e.g., The Motley Fool and Personal Capital), but comparing yourself to others is a recipe for creating false expectations. Not only that, but the average balance is based on the average American who makes an average salary, and this is a terrible benchmark when it comes to planning for retirement. As our latest retirement research points out, less than 20% of Americans are on track to achieve 80% income replacement—a reasonable goal for most people—so why on earth would you want to measure your progress to this?

I find it interesting that millennials feel the need to compare themselves to other millennials. Wouldn’t it make more sense to compare themselves to older generations or at least listen to them? Ask any pre-retiree what they wish they had done to be better prepared for retirement and most will tell you that they wish they had started saving earlier. So while some may think that saving money in your youth is a waste of time, older generations will tell you it is the best way to achieve financial independence. Here are three things I want the next generation to know when it comes to planning for retirement:

#1 Save early, save often, and save as much as you can.

Albert Einstein is known to have called compound interest “the eighth wonder of the world,” so what could be smarter than listening to one of the smartest people who ever lived? The more you start with, and the earlier you start, the more you’ll have later in life; pretty simple, huh? The more you save when you’re younger, the more you will have when you get closer to retirement, which gives you more flexibility in what kind of work you do, how long you do it, and what kind of lifestyle you’ll have when you are done.

#2 Be aggressive.

Piggy backing off of number one, don’t let youth be wasted on the young.  You may be nervous about stock market fluctuation and who can blame you? After all, you witnessed several of the most volatile stock and real estate market years in recent history. That said, you have the most opportunity to recover from these short-term events, so you must take advantage of your youth and save with the intention of keeping this money invested for a long, long time. The longer you can keep money in the stock market, the more likely you will see the types of returns that have been produced historically.

#3 Stop comparing yourself to others.

Some will make more and have to save more. Others will make less and not need as much. Some look forward to a simple lifestyle. Others plan to live the high life. Higher income earners will receive less from Social Security as a percentage of their income than lower income earners.

YOU are unique! You have to plan your life around who you are, how much you make and what you want your future to look like so the best thing you can do right now is decide for yourself what you want your retirement to look like and plan accordingly. Then use this retirement estimator to determine whether or not you are on track.

As my oldest of four children prepares for college, these are the things that I am teaching her. Now I offer them to you as well. If you, the next generation, adopts these principles, you will give my generation hope that the impending retirement crisis will likely be averted.

The 3 Most Important Things Resident Physicians Can Do With Their Money

May 25, 2016

Updated for 2019 numbers

You’ve made it through eight grueling years of schooling, been accepted into a residency program, and you finally have a salary. Even though the average salary for a first year resident is a little over $50,000, it can still feel like hitting the lottery. It’s easy to start thinking about how you’ll spend that money on luxuries you’ve postponed like a nice car or an apartment in an upscale neighborhood while deferring your student loans until you’re making real money in your chosen field. After all, your friends who chose business or law have been living it up through their 20’s and you’re ready to join them.

Not so fast

Before you find room in your budget for things you may not be able to enjoy to the max while working 80+ hours per week, first make sure you’re setting yourself up for optimal financial success. I’m not saying you shouldn’t treat yourself to that luxury car you’ve been dreaming of ever since that first day of class, but first make sure you’re making the most of the savings opportunities you may not have available after residency.

I ran these past my physician husband just to make sure I wasn’t being unrealistic and he agrees. Here are three really important things you should set up before you make your residency budget.

1. Max out your Roth IRA. Take advantage of your lower salary by contributing the full $6,000 allowed into a Roth IRA. There are income limits that could eventually prohibit you from depositing to this account (they start at $122,000 for single people in 2019), so use it before you lose it. A Roth gets money into savings after tax, then allows the money to grow tax-free for life. For eventual high income earners, it’s especially critical to contribute while you can and you’re young, when the money has lots of time to grow.

2. Start paying your student loans. It can be tempting to postpone those payments as long as you can, but I caution against waiting until you feel like you can better afford it. First of all, you’re probably going to be working so much over the next three to four years that you won’t really miss the money, but second of all and more importantly, you’ll avoid throwing money away on interest. It’s all about making your money work harder for you, and using it to pay down loans with an interest rate of 6% or more in some cases can even exceed what you might earn investing the money.

3. Contribute at least to the match in your hospital’s 401(k) or 403(b) plan. Just because you don’t plan to stay at your residency hospital for the rest of your career doesn’t mean you can’t or shouldn’t participate in their retirement savings plan while you’re there. You get to take that money with you when you leave.

Most hospitals offer some type of match for employees who contribute and unless they have a longer than average vesting schedule, that match will be yours when you’re done as well. That’s free money, so don’t pass it up. If you can afford to save more than the match, consider doing so. Time is on your side right now and the more you can save while you’re young, the more the effect of compound interest will have on your future savings.

Becoming a physician in the first place is a great way to ensure a prosperous future for yourself and your family. But even doctors are prone to over-spending and under-saving, especially as the competing costs of real life (buying a house, kids, college, travel, etc.) set in after residency. By buckling down for these last few years, you can doubly ensure your long-term financial security. After all, I’ve never had anyone tell me they regretted saving more money.

 

 

4 Things I Wish Someone Told Me Before I Graduated From College

May 10, 2016

As I talk to my friends’ graduating children, I am always struck by the hope in their faces. They believe that they control their futures and that their lives will be better. It makes me think about my own graduation and reflect on what I wished someone would have told me about finances:

#1- I will actually have to pay back the money I was taking out in student loans. I do not remember thinking about paying back my student loans. I probably thought that the student loan fairy dropped into my college’s financial aid office after graduation and deleted my debts. If I had known how long and painful it would have been to pay back my student loans, I may have made different choices. I encourage parents to sit down with their kids, calculate repayment costs, estimate their starting salary and give them a cold dose of reality as to what their paycheck may look like after taxes and deductions come out.

#2- The car I stupidly bought after college graduation will become the story I tell people about what not to do when you graduate. I worked so hard to graduate and my car was old so I purchased a car I really did not need. It was cute and in the showroom and the second I saw it, I said “I do.” What I did not realize was that I was also saying “I do” to a 5 year car loan that took almost a 4th of my income at that time. I wished someone would have told me that the car I get will dictate my ability to save money, take vacations and contribute to my 401(k) plan.

#3- A business wardrobe is not a reason to get into credit card debt. I was lucky enough to land a job with a large corporation but I realized that I needed to get business clothes. I used this as an excuse to run up $3,000 in credit card debt on a new wardrobe. I think this included a Coach bag and wallet that I never used. I wish someone would have told me that credit card debt is not necessary and worked with me on a plan to pay it off

#4 – The earlier you contribute to a 401(k) plan, the less you need to contribute. I wish someone would have told me how important it was to contribute early, the power of compound interest and how starting with even a small amount makes a big difference, especially when your employer is giving you free money in the form of a match to help you save for retirement. Talk to younger people about how your choice to save early has helped you or about your regret in not starting earlier. Run an estimate for them so they can see how a little makes such a big difference .

Looking back, I wished I would have gotten a cold dose of “adult” reality. I wished I would have known that being on my own meant that my financial choices had consequences that can easily be taken care of if I had been willing to buckle down and pay off my debts instead of using credits cards to upgrade my lifestyle. The best gift you can give a college graduate is to help them start off their futures on the right financial footing. Work with them on a budget, encourage them to pay off credit card debt, teach them the importance of contributing to a 401(k) plan and help them come up with a game plan to pay off their student loans before their children are in college.

 

 

Can You Save Too Much For Retirement?

May 09, 2016

Is it possible to save too much for retirement? Isn’t that a bit like eating too many green vegetables? Recently, I read an article by journalist Constance Brinkley-Badgett, Are You Actually Putting Too Much Money Away for Retirement?, challenging the common financial planning guideline of using a generic “replacement rate” for retirement savings. Brinkley-Badgett quoted David Blanchett, CFA, CFP®, of Morningstar regarding his research into retirement income replacement rates. Do people really not need to save as much for retirement as they think they do?

The simplicity of this message worries me – a lot. According to a study by the Federal Reserve, 31% of American households don’t have any retirement savings at all…not one dime. Even if it’s true that some higher net worth households are “over-saving,” the far more urgent national problem is that most Americans are not saving enough.

There are two common, interrelated retirement planning guidelines. The first is that you should target replacing 70-80% of your pre-retirement income. Why 70-80% and not 100%? Primarily because you no longer have to save for retirement or contribute to Social Security.

However, Blanchett asserts that 80% may be inaccurate, and that based on his research the replacement rate range is a wide 54-87%. “The true cost of retirement is highly personalized based on each household’s unique facts and circumstances,” he wrote in the report summary, “and is likely to be lower than amounts determined using more traditional models.” It’s a thought-provoking piece of research, and if you are interested in financial planning, it’s worth a read.

Another general guideline is known as the 4% rule for retirement account withdrawals. Based on a 1994 article by William Bengen, CFP® in the Journal of Financial Planning, the idea is if you withdraw no more than 4% from your retirement accounts the first year of retirement, then adjust your withdrawals in subsequent years for inflation, a portfolio of 50% stocks and 50% intermediate Treasury notes should last at least thirty years. The two work in conjunction: save as much as you need to generate an annual 4% inflation-adjusted withdrawal from principal over thirty years to cover 70-80% of your pre-retirement income.

While it is true that the 80% and 4% rules are “one size fits all” generalizations that can be improved by personalizing them based upon your health, your expected monthly expenses, your total savings and your expectations for activities in retirement as Blanchett correctly notes, not everyone can afford to have a personalized retirement plan made for them. What does this mean for someone who’s saving for retirement in their 401(k) plan and does not have access to the ongoing services of a financial planner? It is tempting to listen to the “save less” recommendation. After all, if you save less for retirement, you’ll have more money to enjoy life now. However, when we consider the basis for the 80% and 4% rules, we can see how even if your personalized replacement rate was 50 to 60%, you might still want to save for the 80% replacement rate (or higher).

A 95% success rate still means running out of money 5% of the time.

These rules were developed based upon studying how people could spend money in retirement in such a way that they can feel a level of confidence that they will not “outlive their money.”  If one followed the 4% withdrawal rule, then you would have about a 95% chance of being able to live on your savings for 30 years. 95% confident sounds like a lot, but is it enough?

To see what this means, consider what would happen if you lived the same retirement over and over again thousands of times. In some of those lives, you’d get lucky and retire in a bull market, where stocks rise significantly, so your portfolio would always be enough. In others, you’d retire and the markets would fall 30% in the first year. The bottom line: during 5 out of every hundred lives you would run out of money before your thirty year retirement is up.

Past performance does not indicate future results

The model in Bengen’s original paper used long term historical rates of returns and inflation. However, the future may be different. While that could work out in your favor, with higher rates of return during retirement and lower than expected inflation leading to your savings lasting longer than predicted, the opposite could also be true. Rates of return could be much lower, and/or inflation could be higher, which means your money could run out sooner. You could also have the bad luck of retiring at the beginning of a bear market, with a few years of successive negative returns leaving you with a smaller portfolio to generate retirement income.

You could live much longer

According to the Social Security Administration, “a man reaching age 65 today can expect to live, on average, until age 84.3. A woman turning age 65 today can expect to live, on average, until age 86.6. And those are just averages. About one out of every four 65-year-olds today will live past age 90, and one out of 10 will live past age 95.”

Even if your needed retirement replacement ratio were lower, perhaps because you paid off your mortgage or otherwise had significantly lower expenses, there is still a chance that you’ll outlive your savings. What if your money has to last you 40 or 50 years? One way to address that is to save more before retirement, but not spend more afterwards, so you have something left in your nineties. Aim for a 99% confidence level that you won’t outlive your money over a long retirement period.

When you consider that poverty is the price for outliving your money, you can see why financial planners generally want you to oversave for retirement. I don’t know about you, but I plan to live longer than 30 years. Since I can’t change what happens in the economy, I’m planning to save more – not less — than the 80% and 4% rules tell me.

How about you? What do you think are the ideal rules for saving and spending in retirement?  Email me at [email protected] or follow me on Twitter at @cynthiameyer_FF

 

Retirement Planning Shouldn’t Be Like Counting Jelly Beans

May 06, 2016

When I was growing up, there was a local store that would “give away” a huge stuffed animal to a person who could guess the exact number of jelly beans in a gigantic jar. I think that stuffed animal was still in the store when my kids were about the age I was when I first saw it. There may not be a right answer to that question. After all, did someone spend most of a day painstakingly counting jelly bean after jelly bean and keeping a running tally? Is the number that the store owner believes is correct an actually correct number?

After this long, I’m sure some of the jelly beans have merged together and that might change the correct number anyway. I don’t know if people have actually won the stuffed animal and there are lookalikes that keep getting placed where the old one was…or if it’s one constant big bear sitting there taunting everyone who guesses at the number of jelly beans. But it is certainly a source of entertainment and mystery for kids and for that, I’m thankful that it’s there.

Entertainment and mystery…that’s how many of the people I talk to view their financial lives. They see the “game” of planning for retirement a lot like the jar of jelly beans. “How many are in the jar?” Who knows? “How many will it hold?”

“How much money will I need to live the rest of my life?” “When should I take Social Security?” “How much should I contribute to my 401(k)?” “What will taxes look like in my retirement period?”

These questions aren’t that much different from the jelly bean question, but they certainly are a LOT more important in the grander scheme of life. The good news is that with some thought, some preparation and some planning, you’ll be able to get much closer to the “right answer” with your retirement questions than I ever got with the jar. I am a big fan of simplicity, so when I meet someone who is completely baffled by the concept of retirement planning, I go through a quick retirement reality check with them. It’s a two stage process and I’ll share it here:

Step 1: We use this Retirement Estimator calculator to see if their current course of action will get them close to reaching their goals. If they are on track, we check in annually to make sure they’re staying on track and to see if anything new has developed. If they aren’t on track, we tweak some things to see what it would take.

What happens if they increase their 401(k) savings rate? What if they work a few more years? What if they change their investment strategy and shoot for more growth?

During this step, we make sure they have current statements from any and all investment accounts, including their 401(k). We also talk about and enter any income streams like Social Security, pensions, rental income, etc. It’s a pretty straight forward calculator and we can usually build it in less than 15 minutes as we talk through the inputs.

Step 2: This is my “real world” sanity check of the numbers from the calculator. We look at their take-home pay based on their last few paychecks and figure out a monthly amount that they’re living on today. We can even shrink that number if they are regularly saving money, because those funds aren’t being spent now. We add back about $1,000 for medical coverage and some inflation, since that’s usually being deducted from net pay today.

Then we look at Social Security and pension income and come up with a gap that would be needed from investments. If it’s $1,000/month, I like to annualize that and call it $12,000 per year. Divide 12,000 by 3% (a fairly low withdrawal rate from a portfolio) to get to the amount of money they’d need in their investment accounts ($400,000 in this case – in today’s dollars). This is far from an exact way to calculate retirement needs, but it can help validate the results of the calculator. And, it’s a very easy and understandable way to see what retirement might look like.

Once people know the results, that’s when the real work begins. Sadly, not nearly enough people have ever run a retirement calculator. According to our 2015 Year In Review research, only 22% of the population knows that they are on track to replace 80% of their current income in retirement. That means there is a lot of work to do! Most people have never even run a retirement calculation.

Doing this quick two-step process puts you ahead of the game because at least you know where you stand. Only then can you knowingly make progress. Use the calculator – today! And use my way-too-simple sanity checker as a backup. If you do those two things, you’ll move from hoping you can retire at some point to knowing what it will take to retire when you choose and you’ll end up with a lot more than a stuffed animal.

 

 

How Financial Wellness is Like Weight Loss

April 28, 2016

I always like to say that financial wellness is a lot like weight loss. When I came across this article in Vox about “surprisingly simple tips from 20 experts about how to lose weight and keep it off,” I realized just how true that is. Here are the weight loss tips and how they apply to financial wellness:

1. There really, truly is no one “best diet.” Scientific studies have found that all of the various diet plans have about the same modest long term results. What matters is finding one you can actually stick to. The same is true of money management systems and asset allocation strategies.

2. People who lose weight are good at tracking – what they eat and how much they weigh. They tend to count calories and weigh themselves at least once a week. In the same way, you need to track or otherwise limit spending, continually re-balance your investments, and periodically run a retirement calculator to make sure you’re still on track.

3. People who lose weight identify their barriers and motivations. Like with diet and exercise, we usually know what to do with our finances. The hard part is actually doing it. Start with knowing the “why” that motivates you. Then look for the barriers that are standing in your way of taking action.

4. Diets often fail because of unreasonable expectations. People tend to overestimate what they can achieve in the short run and underestimate what they can achieve in the long run. Don’t try to save too much too fast. Instead, set big long term financial goals that motivate you and then see how much you need to save to achieve them.

5. People who lose weight know how many calories they’re consuming – and burning. Similarly, you need to know how much income is coming in and going out. Making sure the latter number is lower than the former is the only way to increase your wealth.

6. There are ways to hack your environment for health. For example, don’t surround yourself with unhealthy foods. Simple things like where your food is served from and what size plate it’s on can also affect how much you eat. For your financial life, don’t put yourself in situations where you’re likely to spend more and try to automate your savings as much as possible.

7. Exercise is surprisingly unhelpful for weight loss. More accurately, exercise alone isn’t very effective since people often eat more to compensate for the calories they burn. Earning more income can have the same effect when we automatically spend more as well.

8. Weight loss medications aren’t very useful. Neither are “metabolism boosting” supplements. Complex, sophisticated, and high-fee investments are the weight loss medications and metabolism boosting supplements of the financial world. Stick to the basics.

9. Forget about “the last 10 pounds.” If they’re that hard to lose, people generally gain them back. Most of the health benefits came from the other lost pounds anyway. Likewise, trying too hard to save more can backfire if it starts to feel like too much deprivation. Allow yourself to splurge now and then too.

So what’s the main thing that weight loss and financial wellness have in common? They are both about making small changes over a long period of time. Instead of looking for the quick fix, find an approach that you can stick with.