How to Invest for Education Expenses

May 25, 2017

Today, I conclude my investing series with how to invest in an education savings account. The first question is whether you even should at all. Before investing for education, make sure you have adequate emergency savings, no high interest debt, and are on track for retirement. This may sound selfish but there’s no financial aid for your retirement. If you’re ready to save and invest for education, here are some things to consider:

How good is your state’s 529 plan?

529 plans are state-based education savings plans in which the earnings can be used tax-free for post-secondary education expenses (but otherwise subject to taxes and possibly a 10% penalty) and you’re not limited to the state in which you live or the state in which your child goes to school. There are a couple of things to consider in deciding whether to use your state’s plan. The first is whether your state offers a state income tax deduction or lower expenses for residents contributing to the plan. The second is the fees charged by the mutual funds in the plan.

One good resource to consider is financial expert Clark Howard’s guide to 529 plans. The site has an “Honor Roll” of plans to contribute to if you live in one of those states and a “Dean’s List” of the overall best plans if you don’t. It also includes some suggestions on which specific investments in the plan are low cost, including “age-based portfolios” that are like target date retirement funds in that they are fully-diversified and automatically become more conservative as your child approaches college age.

Want more flexibility?

If your state isn’t on the “Honor Roll,” you may also want to consider contributing the first $2k per year (the contribution limit) to a Coverdell Education Savings Account (ESA), which also allows tax-free earnings for education (and otherwise subject to taxes and a 10% penalty as well) but gives you more flexibility in how the money is invested and used tax and penalty-free (includes private K-12 and other expenses like books and even a computer). Here is a list of low-cost Coverdell ESA providers. (Coverdell ESAs have income limits on the contributors but you can easily avoid this by gifting the money to your child and having them contribute it to the account.)

Another option is to open a custodial account in your child’s name. This allows you to invest it in anything and use the money in any way penalty-free for the child’s benefit (not just qualified education expenses). The first $1,050 of earnings each year would be nontaxable and the next $1,050 would be taxed at your child’s rate. Be aware that any earnings over that would be taxed at your rate though. Money in your child’s name can also reduce their financial aid eligibility more than other savings and they can legally use it for any purpose once they reach your state’s age of majority.

How soon is your child going to school?

If your state offers a state income tax deduction and your child is going to school soon, you may want to contribute to a 529 even if your state isn’t on the “Honor Roll.” That’s because the value of the tax deduction can outweigh the higher fund fees in the short term. In fact, you can even contribute to the plan to get the state tax deduction and then immediately use the money for education expenses. In that case, you won’t even be investing the money at all.

If you’re still not sure which option is best for you, you might want to consult with an unbiased financial planner. See if your employer offers a financial wellness program or consider hiring a fee-only advisor. Whether in time or money, the first education you invest in might be your own.

Why is an Index Important in Investing?

May 22, 2017

Everywhere you turn, you hear or read personal finance experts advocating the use of index funds in your portfolio. Employees often call our Financial Helpline asking if their 401(k) funds are index funds or wondering what exactly an index fund is and how to pick the right one for them. They also ask how they can know if their mutual fund is performing well. The key to both is understanding indexes.

An index is a statistic

An index is a statistic measure of change in the prices of major groups of stocks or bonds which represent an area of the overall market. In investing, indexes are used as a guide to constructing portfolios, and to set a starting point (benchmark) and measure portfolio performance over time. Indexes are usually capitalization-weighted, meaning that the largest companies have the most influence on the index. Common indexes like this include:

The S&P 500®, which includes 500 large companies in a market capitalization weighting, and is widely viewed as a benchmark for the U.S. stock market. If you’ve got a “large company growth fund” in your retirement account, it’s likely its performance will be compared to the S&P 500. You can track the index by entering symbol SPX.
The NASDAQ Composite Index includes all the stocks which trade on the NASDAQ market. It includes a lot of technology companies, but isn’t limited to them. You can track this by entering symbol IXIC.
The Russell 2000 Index includes 2,000 small companies in the U.S. You can track this by entering symbol RUT. If you’ve got a “small company” or “small cap” fund in your retirement account, it’s likely that its performance will be compared to the Russell 2000.
The Bloomberg Barclays U.S. Aggregate Bond Index tracks a range of types of fixed income securities to represent the types of bonds in the bond market. If you have a “total U.S. corporate bond” fund in your retirement account, it is likely its performance will be compared to the Bloomberg Barclay’s U.S. Aggregate Bond Index. Bloomberg Barclays has many common bond indexes and you can find and track yours here.

Another well-known index that is frequently reported as an indicator of the total U.S. economy, the Dow Jones Industrial Average, is a measure of 30 U.S. blue chip stocks from all industries except transportation and utilities. It is a price-weighted average, which means that the most expensive stocks influence the index the most. You can track this by entering symbol DJIA.

An index fund mimics the index

An index fund is a type of mutual fund with a portfolio designed either to match directly or track the performance of an index. For example, an S&P 500 index fund would hold stocks of the companies in the S&P 500 index in direct proportion to how they are represented in the index. When you choose an index fund, you’re choosing a passive method of managing your investments. You won’t outperform the index, but should closely track the performance of the index, with slight underperformance due to trading costs and fees. Index funds are a great way to minimize the fees in your retirement plan or other investment portfolio, which can really add up over a long period of time. Not all index funds are created equally, however, so make sure you read the fund fact sheet and prospectus before you invest. Not sure about how to choose the right funds for you in your retirement account? Start here with an easy to read post from fellow planner Kelley Long on how investing is like choosing a pizza.

An index gives you a way to compare how you’re doing

Comparing your mutual fund to an index that contains similar stocks or bonds is an excellent way to measure how your fund is doing over time. A fund will generally disclose its benchmark, the index against which the fund management measures its performance. For a passive index fund strategy, the comparison is simple. An actively managed fund, which is designed to try to beat an index (although most don’t), may have a composite benchmark (made up of several indexes in pre-set proportions).

The upshot: do a review of your retirement accounts and other investments. Do you own index funds, and if so, what indexes do they track? Do you have a diversified portfolio of funds which track different indexes? Do you have actively managed funds, and if so, what indexes are they measured against? How did they do? If you’re not sure about where to start, call your Financial Helpline or call your financial coach if you have one.

Do you have a question you’d like answered on the blog? Please email me at [email protected]. You can follow me on the blog by signing up here and on Twitter @cynthiameyer_FF.

How Should You Invest in an HSA?

May 18, 2017

I’ve written about how to invest in a Roth IRA, your employer’s retirement plan, and a taxable account, but a new type of tax-sheltered account that’s growing in popularity is a health savings account or HSA. (If the new health care bill passes, HSAs could become even more important as the contribution limits would be doubled.) Like a health care FSA, HSA contributions are tax-free and can be used tax-free for qualified health care expenses, but unlike FSAs, you can leave the money in the account to be used for future health care expenses (and for any purpose without penalty after age 65). For this reason, many plans allow you to invest money in the account. Before investing your HSA, here are some things to consider:

When might you use the money?

Anything you might spend in the next few years shouldn’t be invested at all. That’s because a downturn in the market could force you to sell investments at a loss and even leave you without enough money in the account to cover your health care costs. If you use the account for current expenses, you might want to leave at least enough in cash to cover your deductible for the next year or two. On the other hand, if you plan to cover any current health care costs with other savings and not touch the HSA, you can invest as much as the plan will allow you (many require you to keep a minimum amount in cash) to grow as much as possible tax-free for future medical expenses.

How should you invest it?

You can either look at your HSA as a standalone account or as part of your overall retirement portfolio. In the former case, you can invest it in a fully diversified asset allocation fund or a balanced portfolio based on your risk tolerance and time frame. In the latter case, you can use it for investments that may not be available in your employer’s retirement plan.

Where should you have your HSA?

Unlike with your employer’s retirement plan, you don’t have to wait until you leave or turn age 59 ½ to transfer your HSA to a different provider. If you want to invest in something not available from your current provider, you may want to consider other options. Just be aware that your contributions from your payroll and your employer will likely continue being deposited in your current HSA so you’ll have to keep transferring the balance periodically.

Not sure what to do? Consider consulting with an unbiased financial planner to discuss your options in more detail. In the meantime, don’t let analysis paralysis stop you from contributing to an HSA at all. You can always leave it in cash until you make your decision.

Retirement Planning Step 3: Choose Your Investments

May 17, 2017

When it comes to choosing how to invest the money you deposit into your 401k and/or your IRA, it’s easy to get overwhelmed, but don’t let information overload stop you. It’s true that investing can get complicated and involved, but there are also things out there that make it pretty easy.

First thing though, is knowing whether you are a conservative, moderate or aggressive investor. The younger you are, the more aggressive you MAY be, but just to be sure, take this quiz to find out. Once you know what your investing personality is, the best way to narrow your options is by declaring yourself either a hands-off or hands-on investor.

What’s the difference?

Typical things a hands-off investor might say:

“I wish someone would just do this for me.”

“Words like ‘allocation’ and ‘portfolio’ are foreign to me.”

“I want to set it and forget it.”

“I rarely review my account and prefer a pre-mixed solution.”

The good news is that the investing industry recognizes that there are plenty of people out there who want the benefits of investing but who don’t have the knowledge, interest or even just the time to do it well, so they have created solutions that can be really great. If that sounds like you, then you don’t need to worry about how to pick a stock or watch channels like CNBC or Bloomberg TV – that’s more for the hands-on folks.

If you’re a hands-off investor, look for Target Date Funds in your 401k or IRA – the easiest way to spot them is that they have a year, like 2050, in their name. Target Date Funds are great because they choose the mix of stocks and bonds for you, in a mix according to the year you choose, and they typically charge lower fees than more actively managed options. Moderate investors typically choose the fund with the year closest to when they turn 65, while conservative investors may look for a year that’s closer to today and aggressive people often choose the one closer to the year they’ll turn 70 or 75.

When Target Date Funds aren’t available, then hands-off investors may opt to hire an investment manager to help them pick or they use the suggested investment mixes that can be found on the last page of the Risk Tolerance Profile and Asset Allocation Worksheet to help them put together a mix of the funds available in their 401k.

Typical things a hands-on investor might say:

“I enjoy researching mutual funds and their objectives.”

“I love my Jim Cramer bobblehead.”

“I log into my account regularly to check in on things.”

“Investing is interesting and I enjoy learning about it.”

If you’re a hands-on investor, chances are you probably have a pretty good handle on what you want to do with your money, but here are a few resources to check out to keep your knowledge and skills top notch:

How to Invest in Your Employer’s Retirement Plan

Should You Care About a Mutual Fund’s Past Performance?

How Investing is Like Eating Pizza

How to Invest in a Taxable Account

May 11, 2017

I recently wrote about how to invest in a Roth IRA and in your employer’s retirement plan. But what about a plain old taxable account? Here are some options to consider:

Use it for short term goals. One of the advantages of a taxable account is that you don’t need to worry about any tax penalties on withdrawals. For that reason, it probably makes the most sense to use a taxable account for goals other than retirement and education like an emergency fund, a vacation, or a down payment on a car or home. In that case, you don’t want to take risk so cash is king. To maximize the interest you earn, you can search for high-yielding rewards checking accounts, online savings accounts, and CDs on sites like Deposit Accounts and Bankrate.

Keep it simple for retirement. Just like in a 401(k) or IRA, you can simplify your retirement investing as much as possible with a target date fund that’s fully diversified and automatically becomes more conservative as you get closer to the target retirement date. There are a couple of differences in a taxable account though. The bad news is that you’ll be paying taxes on it each year so you want a fund that doesn’t trade as often. The good news is that you’re not limited to the options in an employer’s plan so you can choose target date funds with low turnover (how often the fund trades and hence generates taxes) like ones composed of passive index funds.

Invest more conservatively for early retirement. If you plan to retire early, a taxable account can be used for income until you’re no longer subject to penalties in your other retirement accounts or to generate less taxable income so you can qualify for bigger subsidies if you plan to purchase health insurance through the Affordable Care Act before qualifying for Medicare at age 65. In either case, you’ll want to invest more conservatively than with your other investments since this money will be used first and possibly depleted over a relatively short period of time. Consider a conservative balanced fund or make your own conservative mix using US savings bonds (which are tax-deferred and don’t fluctuate in value like other bonds do) or tax-free municipal bonds instead of taxable bonds if you’re in a high tax bracket.

Make your overall retirement portfolio more tax-efficient. You can also use a taxable account to complement your other retirement accounts by holding those investments that are most tax-efficient, meaning they lose the least percentage of earnings to taxes. Your best bets here are stocks and stock funds since the dividends and gains are taxed at a capital gains rate that’s lower than your ordinary income tax rate as long as you hold them for more than a year. In addition, the volatility of stocks can also be your friend since you can use losses to offset other taxes (as long as you don’t repurchase the same or an identical investment 30 days before or after you sell it). When you pass away, there’s also no tax on the stocks’ gain over your lifetime when your heirs sell them.

In particular, consider individual stocks (which give you the most control over taxes) and stock funds with low turnover like index funds and tax-managed funds. Foreign stocks and funds in taxable accounts are also eligible for a foreign tax credit for any taxes paid to foreign governments. That’s not available when they’re in tax-sheltered accounts so you may want to prioritize them in taxable accounts over US stocks.

For retirement, you’ll probably want to max out any tax-advantaged accounts you’re eligible for first. But if you’re fortunate enough to still have extra savings, there are ways to make the best use of a taxable account. Like all financial decisions, it all depends on your individual situation and goals.

What Tesla and United Can Teach Us About Investing

May 05, 2017

In another of my “grumpy old man” rants here, I’m absolutely mystified by investors and the car company Tesla. Sure, they make cool cars. Sure, they are selling directly to consumers and bypassing the traditional dealership model. Sure, every time I see one I give it a long look and think “that’s pretty awesome.” But in the midst of all of all of that, I just don’t understand how their stock price can be so high.

Tesla passed General Motors as the #1 US car company recently. Last year, Tesla sold about 76,000 cars. GM sold about 10,000,000. GM made over $9 BILLION in profits last year, while Tesla has had 2 profitable quarters…EVER! It is perhaps due to the “cool factor” that Tesla is now the #1 car company in the U.S. based on market capitalization. (Market capitalization is simply the number of shares outstanding times stock price.)

Clearly, the stock market is rewarding more than just financial results. As someone who has all but stopped using Facebook, never liked Twitter and is not a fan of social media in general, it seems that the stock market is moving away from rewarding the old school “logic and reason” of profitable companies seeing their stock price rise and companies who have yet to hit their stride from a profitability standpoint not getting much traction in the market. There are a lot of future expectations built into stock prices. This makes it hard to be an investor.

Heck, one video was able to move the stock price of United Airlines. This is a company with $9.1 billion in revenue in just the 4^th quarter of 2016 and the stock price moved because of one cell phone video. This age of social media definitely has ripple effects in the investment markets. No one could have predicted in advance that United would have been hit by a wave of negativity after a cellphone video went viral or that an unprofitable car company would be worth more than General Motors.

Picking individual stocks and outperforming the market is HARD! Most professional managers struggle to beat their respective index. If you bought Apple very early on, you’re probably a pretty happy investor. If you bought Enron or MCI WorldCom, probably not so much. All of those companies had spectacular performance at some point in their history, but only one is still in business.

That’s why it’s becoming increasingly more important to diversify your portfolio. Having a mix of stocks – small, mid-sized, large, international, emerging markets – and bonds and cash can help you avoid devastating losses like many investors experienced in 2008. Check out my blog from last week and get to know who you are as an investor and build a low cost, non-emotionally driven portfolio.

Since I started with a grumpy old man rant, I’ll end with an old phrase that we’ve all heard countless times in our lives. Don’t put all your eggs in one basket! In the investment world, it simply makes sense.

What’s the Market Going to Do Next?

April 28, 2017

One of the questions I’ve been getting asked A LOT recently is what I think the stock market is going to do. My usual answer is that it’s going to go up, and it’s going to go down. The only thing I don’t know is how much it will go in either direction or when the tide will turn. In essence, I’m useless when it comes to predicting the future movements of the stock market. That usually leads to a conversation around their retirement timeline, their ability/willingness to absorb losses in the stock market and their opinions about the future.

It was right after one of these calls that I read this story about a hedge fund manager who is giving back $1.25 BILLION in cash to the investors in his fund! That’s astounding, primarily because that’s over a billion dollars that the fund will no longer get paid a fee to manage. Even a small fee on over a billion dollars is a pretty big amount of money to give up.

Why is he doing this? He’s concerned that the stock market is overvalued and that he can’t find the right investments to buy in order to give his investors the type of returns he would like to provide. Now, let’s not shed any tears for him. He’s still got over $16 billion invested, and I’m pretty sure that’s enough to keep the lights on and food on the table.

But it is tangible evidence of someone believing that the stock market might be a bit overpriced right now. There are also managers who believe that the market, because of economic growth, job growth and corporate earnings – is poised to move upward for quite some time. (I’m still solidly in the camp of “I don’t know which way the market is going.”)

But whether the market goes up or down or sideways in the next few months to the next 3-5 years shouldn’t prompt you to take any action. The key to long term wealth building (and that’s why we all invest) is to pick a strategy and stick to it in good and bad markets. Investors who did nothing in response to the market collapse of 2008 were better off within a few years than the day before the crash. Those who moved everything out of stocks as the market tanked or after the market tanked may still not be whole.

The first thing you can do is to understand who you are as an investor. Here’s a quick investment risk quiz that can help you figure this out and gives you some hypothetical portfolios that might be appropriate for your particular risk tolerance. When your overall risk level changes due to changing time horizons, retirement goals, age, family circumstances, etc, it’s time to reallocate your long term investments.

When pressed for time, I ask a one question risk tolerance quiz. “On a scale from 1 to 10, where 1 is the most conservative investor in the world (money in the mattress) and 10 is the most aggressive (willing to put all of your money on a couple stocks and see what happens) – what number would you give yourself?” If someone answers 3 or 4 then 30-40% of their long term investment portfolio could be allocated toward high growth/high risk investments like stocks.

It’s by no means a comprehensive approach, but it has a very consistent answer with the other quiz above as well as other similar quizzes. In a former role, I had about a dozen clients take 5 or 6 different risk profile quizzes. They all came out with roughly the same answer and it was pretty darn close to the one question risk quiz.

So in spite of the fact that a hedge fund manager is giving back a big chunk of money to investors because he thinks the market is overvalued and other managers are incredibly optimistic about the markets moving forward, your goal as an investor is to understand who you are, get to an asset allocation that is consistent with your time lines and goals, and don’t get too high when things are good or too low when things are bad. From my experience, emotions are the enemy of good decision making and this applies to investing as well. Markets, like many things in life, are cyclical and if you’re patient and consistent, good things usually happen.

How to Invest in Your Employer’s Retirement Plan

April 27, 2017

Last week, I wrote about how to invest in a Roth IRA but how about your employer’s retirement plan like a 401(k) or 403(b)? After all, that’s where most people have the bulk of their retirement savings. Here are some options:

Keep it simple…real simple. If you have a target date retirement fund in your plan, this is the simplest option. In fact, it’s probably the default so you may not need to do anything at all.

The idea is to pick the fund with the target date closes to when you think you’ll retire. Each fund is fully-diversified to be a one-stop shop that automatically becomes more conservative as you get closer to retirement so you can set it and forget it. It doesn’t get much easier than that.

There are a couple of downsides though. First, you may not even have this option in your plan. Second, your plan’s target date funds may have high fees. Finally, you don’t have the ability to customize the mix of investments to match your particular risk tolerance (although you can pick an earlier date if you want to be more conservative or a later date if you want to be more aggressive) or to complement any outside investments you may have.

Target a particular risk level. If you don’t have a target date fund or want something more tailored to your particular risk tolerance, see if your plan has a target risk fund or an advice program. A target risk fund is fully diversified to be a one-stop shop, but it stays at a particular risk level so you may want to switch to something more conservative as you get closer to retirement.

An online advice program can recommend a particular mix of investments based on your risk tolerance. Many programs will even use the lowest cost options in your plan and/or factor in any outside assets you may have. For example, if you have a lot of stocks in a Roth IRA, the program may reduce your stock holdings in your plan accordingly. However, it will need to be periodically updated as your situation changes and some programs charge additional fees.

Create your own mix. If the above options aren’t available to you or if you prefer to have more control, you may have to create your own mix of investments. You can take a risk tolerance quiz like this one and use the suggested allocations as guidelines.

Just be sure to look for low cost fund options to implement your portfolio. You may want to use your plan for those assets in which you have low cost fund options and use outside accounts for the rest. (That’s why I invest mine all in a low cost S&P 500 index fund.) Don’t forget that taxes are another cost. If you have investments in taxable accounts, you may want to prioritize the most tax-inefficient investments like taxable bonds, commodities, real estate investment trusts, and funds with high dividends and turnover for your tax-sheltered retirement account since more of their earnings will otherwise be lost to Uncle Sam.

Consider a small amount in company stock. If company stock is an option, you might want to keep a small amount there to benefit from potentially lower taxes on the gains when you eventually withdraw it from the plan. Just don’t have more than 10-15% there because having too much in any one stock is too risky, no matter how great the company is. This is especially true with employer stock because if something happens to your company, you could be out of a job at the same time as your portfolio is decimated.

Not sure what to do? Don’t let analysis paralysis prevent you from investing at all. You can start with a simple option like a target date or target risk fund for now and adjust later. You don’t want to make the perfect investment plan the enemy of the good.

Does a Money Market Fund Make Sense for You?

April 24, 2017

Are you looking for a stable value investment with easy access to your cash when you need it but a higher return than leaving your money in a checking or savings account? A money market fund could be a good fit. Here are some things to consider.

What is a Money Market Fund?

While a money market fund is often referred to as a “cash equivalent” because of its low risk profile, a money market fund is not cash. It’s actually a mutual fund which invests in very short term, low risk debt securities such as treasury bills, the debt of various government agencies, and “commercial paper” (short-term corporate IOUs). The investment objective of a money market fund is to earn interest for its shareholders while maintaining a stable net asset value (NAV) of $1 per share. The value of these short-term investments rarely fluctuates, which is why they’re considered almost as good as cash. But since they’re not cash, money market mutual funds yield a slightly higher return than savings accounts or money market accounts.

When to Use a Money Market Fund

The benefits of money market mutual funds — safety, liquidity and a higher yield on “cash-equivalent” savings — make them attractive to many savers with differing goals. Here are some common uses for money market funds:

For an emergency fund – A money market fund can be a low risk place to keep 3-6 months of expenses. Make sure you choose one that doesn’t have a penalty for redeeming shares.
For cash management – Many financial institutions offer money market accounts with cash management privileges, where unused cash balances are swept into a linked money market fund and shares are redeemed to pay a check, debit card or ATM withdrawal.
To save for short term goals like a home down payment – Money you know you will need relatively soon shouldn’t be subject to the volatility of the stock or bond markets.
As a parking place between investments – If you sell an investment, you can park the proceeds from the sale in a money market fund while you research other investment options.
To balance the asset allocation of your portfolio – Many investment strategists recommend that a portion of any investor’s portfolio remain in “cash,” available to take advantage of opportunities that come up in the stock and bond markets.

When Not to Use a Money Market Fund

A money market fund is considered a short term, cash-type investment. That’s great for your emergency fund but may not be the best place for retirement savings that you don’t plan to access for decades. If you’re not sure what the mix of stocks, bonds and cash (such as money market funds) should be in your portfolio, download this Risk Tolerance and Asset Allocation Worksheet.

Types of Money Market Funds

There are differences among money market funds that make for variations in taxation, safety and yield. Savers with different goals will choose different funds. Money market funds, depending on their objective, can offer a taxable return or a full or partially tax-free yield, depending on what type of debt securities they hold in the fund..

What to Know Before Investing

Money market funds are not federally insured. However, most people consider the amount of extra risk in money market funds to be so minimal as to be easily offset by the slightly higher interest they earn. Fees on money market funds can vary, so do some research before you invest, including reading the fund’s prospectus.

Do you have a question you’d like answered on the blog? Please email me at [email protected]. You can follow me on the blog by signing up here and on Twitter @cynthiameyer_FF.

How Should You Invest In Your Roth IRA?

April 20, 2017

If you’re like many people I’ve talked to recently, you may have decided to contribute to a Roth IRA before the deadline on Tue. However, it’s not enough to open an account and fund it. After all, a Roth IRA is simply a tax-sheltered account, not an investment. You still have to decide how to invest the money. Here are some options to consider:

Use it as an emergency fund. If you don’t have enough emergency savings somewhere else, you can use a Roth IRA as part or all of your emergency fund since you can withdraw your contributions tax and penalty-free at any time and for any purpose. (Earnings are subject to taxes and a 10% early withdrawal penalty before 5 years and age 59 ½ but the contributions all come out first.) In this case, you’ll want to keep it someplace safe and accessible like a savings account or money market fund. Once you accumulate enough emergency savings elsewhere, you can invest it more aggressively for retirement.

Save for a short term goal. A Roth IRA can also be used penalty-free for a first-time home purchase (up to $10k) or education expenses. If you intend to use your Roth IRA for either goal in the next few years, you’ll probably want to keep it in savings.

Choose investments that complement your other retirement accounts. For example, you may want to use your Roth IRA for investments that may not be available in your employer’s plan like real estate, gold, commodities, emerging markets, international bonds, and microcap stocks. They can help diversify a more traditional mix of bonds and large and small cap US and international stocks.

Choose a more conservative mix for early retirement. If you’re planning to retire before becoming eligible for Medicare at age 65 and are planning to purchase health insurance through the Affordable Care Act (assuming it hasn’t been repealed and replaced), a tax-free Roth IRA can help reduce your insurance costs because the insurance subsidies are based on your taxable income. Since a large percentage of the account may be coming out over a relatively short period of time, you may want to invest it more conservatively than your other retirement investments.

Choose more aggressive investments for long term tax-free growth. If you’re not planning to withdraw your Roth IRA early, you may want to take the opposite approach and use it for the most aggressive parts of your portfolio. That’s because the account is growing tax-free and may be the last to be touched. (It helps that Roth IRAs aren’t subject to required minimum distributions.) Some examples of more aggressive investments would be emerging market and small and micro cap stocks.

Keep it simple. If this all sounds confusing and you want to just keep your investing as simple as possible, you can look at each account separately. For example, you might choose a target date retirement fund for your Roth IRA since it’s a fully diversified one stop shop that automatically becomes more conservative as you get closer to the retirement date. All you need to do is pick the one with the date closest to when you think you’ll retire and set it and forget it. If you want something more customized, you can also use a robo-advisor or design your own portfolio based on your particular risk tolerance.

Like all financial decisions, your choice begins with your goal. Are you trying to save for emergencies? Do you plan to use the account early or late in your retirement? Or do you just want to keep things as simple as possible?

Should You Invest in an Equity-Indexed Annuity?

April 17, 2017

Should you consider investing in an annuity linked to stock market returns but with less risk than the stock market? I recently had a coaching session with an employee who had invested a lump sum distribution from a retirement account into an equity-indexed annuity. Did she make the right decision, she wondered, and should she add more to the annuity or diversify into something else?

Remind Me What an Annuity Is, Please!

An annuity is a contract between you and an insurance company in which the insurance company agrees to make periodic payments to you, starting immediately or at some future time, in return for payment from you, either in a lump sum now or over flexible installments over time. With a “fixed annuity,” the insurance company agrees to a fixed return and a fixed payment. With a “variable annuity,” the rate of return and the payment vary depending on the investment choices within the contract.

So What is an Equity-Indexed Annuity?

An equity indexed annuity is the lovechild of a fixed and a variable annuity. With an equity-indexed annuity (EIA), the insurance company will pay an interest rate linked to a stock market index if the market index is up, with a guaranteed minimum rate if the market is down. In the case of the employee I spoke with, she would earn an annual rate of return linked to the performance of the S&P 500 during the accumulation phase of the annuity, capped at 6%. If the S&P 500 index went down, her return would be 0% for that year.

Who is a Good Candidate for an Equity-Indexed Annuity?

The primary financial planning purpose of an annuity is to turn a sum of money into a stream of income you cannot outlive. An equity-indexed annuity makes the most sense for an investor who is a) looking to create a future fixed income in retirement and b) who is not comfortable with direct stock market risk but would like to participate partially in potential stock market returns. In the case of this employee, she was willing to accept a cap on returns of 6% in return for no loss of her investment if the market declined.

She was also within 10 years of retirement and much more concerned about maintaining the value of her savings than she was in generating out-sized returns. It’s important to have both fixed and flexible sources of income in retirement so ideally an investor would refrain from putting all their retirement savings into an annuity. I encouraged this employee to keep some of her retirement funds in her 401(k) and IRA so she would have a source of income to meet flexible expenses in retirement such as a big vacation, dental work or an unexpected home repair.

Who is Not a Good Candidate for an Equity-Indexed Annuity?

A more aggressive investor would not be comfortable capping returns at 6% – especially in a year when the S&P 500 index went up 20%. Plus annuities generally have high fees which can eat into investment performance. EIAs typically have high surrender charges during the first 8-10 years of the contract so once purchased, you’ve got a strong incentive to stay put.

The moderately aggressive to aggressive investor could consider accumulating savings in a diversified portfolio of low fee index funds. That investor could potentially build a larger nest egg and then purchase an immediate annuity at retirement with some of those savings if interested in turning them into a stream of income. Because of the higher fees, younger investors are also generally not good candidates for equity indexed annuities. Finally, an investor who doesn’t ever plan to turn their savings into retirement income is not a good candidate for an annuity.

Was it a Fit for Her?

Was an equity-indexed annuity a good fit for this employee? After weighing the pros and cons, her conclusion was “yes.” She was willing to trade upside potential in order to eliminate the risk of losing money.

She was planning to annuitize within ten years – turning her annuity into a stream of payments in retirement. Moreover, she had chosen a reputable insurance company with an A+ rating from A.M.Best. Although she was excited about the annuity return/risk profile, she decided it would be best to continue to keep some of her retirement money in her employer plan so she’d have some flexible sources of income to meet unexpected retirement expenses.

Do Your Homework

Annuities are very complex investments. Before signing on the dotted line, make sure you’ve read and understand all the provisions in the contract. If you are considering an equity-indexed annuity, start with this fact sheet from FINRA. Check out the financial strength of the issuing insurance company and make sure it has a high rating for its financial position. If possible, get an unbiased second opinion from a financial planner in your workplace financial wellness program or a fee-only CFP® professional.

Do you have a question you’d like answered on the blog? Please email me at [email protected]. You can follow me on the blog by signing up here and on Twitter @cynthiameyer_FF.

Which Retirement Plan Benefits Are You Missing Out On?

April 06, 2017

This week, we’re recognizing Employee Benefits Day on April 3^rd by writing about ways to appreciate and “benefit from your benefits.” One of the most common benefits that is often underappreciated and underutilized is your employer’s retirement plan. In particular, here are some features that you may not be taking full advantage of if you’re fortunate enough to have them in your plan:

Employer’s match. According to our research, 92% of employees are contributing to their plan but almost a quarter aren’t contributing enough to get the full match from their employer. At the very least, make sure you’re contributing enough to not leaving any of this free money on the table.

Contribution rate escalator. If you can’t afford to save enough to hit your goal, try slowly increasing your contributions by one percentage point each year. This tends to be less than cost of living adjustments so people generally don’t even notice the difference in their paychecks, but after just a few years, they may be saving more than they ever thought they could. A contribution rate escalator can do this for you automatically.

Roth contributions. Unlike pre-tax contributions, you get no tax benefit now, but Roth contributions can grow to be tax-free after 5 years and age 59 ½. This is especially useful if you’re worried about paying higher tax rates in retirement or if you’re planning to retire early since tax-free Roth distributions won’t count against you in calculating the subsidies you would be eligible for if you purchase health insurance through the Affordable Care Act (assuming the subsides are still in place) before becoming eligible for Medicare at age 65. Roth contributions are also more valuable if you max out your contributions since $18k tax-free is more valuable than $18k that’s taxable. (Yes, you could technically invest the tax savings from making pre-tax contributions, but then you’d still have to pay a tax on those earnings too.)

After-tax contributions. If you max out your normal pre-tax and/or Roth contributions, you may be able to make additional after-tax contributions. These aren’t as advantageous since the money goes in after-tax and the earnings are taxed at distribution, but you can convert them into a Roth account to grow tax-free, either while you’re still at your job if the plan allows it or by rolling it into a Roth IRA after you leave. You can also generally withdraw after-tax money while still working at your job (subject to taxes and a 10% penalty on earnings before age 59 1/2).

Asset allocation funds. To simplify your investing, retirement plans will often provide you with fully-diversified asset allocation funds that can be a one-stop shop. Some, called target date funds, even automatically become more conservative as you get closer to the target date so you can simply “set it and forget it.”

Online retirement and investing advice. Some plans provide access to a free online retirement planning and investment tool that can tell you whether you’re on track for retirement and make specific investment recommendations based on your particular risk tolerance and time frame, typically using the lowest cost funds in your plan.

Brokerage window. If you’re looking for an investment not otherwise available in your plan, see if you have a brokerage option that will give you access to thousands of other funds and in some cases, even individual stocks.

Employer stock. While you don’t want to put too much in any one stock (no more than 10-15% of your overall), especially your employer’s, there can be a tax benefit for doing so when you eventually cash out the account. If you transfer the employer stock directly to a brokerage firm in-kind, you can pay a lower capital gains tax on the growth instead of the higher ordinary income tax rate that you would normally owe on distributions.

Retirement plan loans. If you need a loan, borrowing from your retirement plan doesn’t require a credit check and the interest goes back into your own account. However, you miss out on any earnings that money would have received and if you leave your employer, you may owe taxes plus possibly a 10% penalty (if you’re under age 59 ½) on any outstanding balance after 60 days. (Some plans do allow you to continue making loan payments though.) Also, be aware that retirement plan loans are paid back from your paycheck so there’s no possibility of default and you can’t discharge them through bankruptcy.

Financial wellness. Some plans offer free, unbiased financial wellness coaching to help you plan, save and invest for your retirement. This is an important benefit since it can help you take advantage of all the others.

Which of those benefits are you not taking advantage of? See which ones are offered by your plan and start utilizing them. Your future self will thank you.

Why and How to Have Weekly Money Talks

March 28, 2017

When I first got married, money talks in my home looked something like this: I brought out my spreadsheet and the four other programs I was working on to have a financial summit with my husband. He mentally tuned out the second he saw the first version of the budget and was in another place (I suspect it was at a college football game) by the time the meeting was over. Over the years, I learned to simplify my budgets and my husband brought both his mind and body to the meeting. My colleague Steve offers great insight into how to make couple money meetings work that I wish I knew from the beginning:

I have a confession to make. For over a decade in my professional career, I was the pot calling the kettle black. Almost 20 years ago, I followed the advice of a fellow CFP® professional and started advising clients to schedule a weekly 30 minute money meeting to focus on their finances, but I wasn’t doing these myself. Then about 7 years ago, I started having those meetings with my spouse and guess what? They work.

The basic idea is this. Many of us can go a month or longer and not spend any time thinking about our investments or whether we are spending our money on what is important to us instead of where we have always spent it. We pay our bills but don’t think about our spending plan.

On a side note, I hate the word “budget.” It sounds like “diet” to me. They both are limiting and negative.

A friend of mine told me “Steve, you’re a financial planner. Don’t think of it as a diet. Think of it as an eating plan.”

That works for me. I don’t think of my spending as a budget. I think of it as a spending plan.

The ideal time to have a conversation about money is not when you’re late for work, trying to get the kids off to school and have a deadline that is consuming all of your mental energy – been there done that. The Weekly 30 Minute Money Meeting can either be with yourself or with your partner. The rules are the same:

1.You cannot change the past. It is a waste of time to argue about or beat yourself up about things that have already happened. Learn from your mistakes (we have all made them) so you don’t repeat them in the future.

2. Be thoughtful and focus on the future. With my eating plan, if I choose to have a 1,500 calorie breakfast (which is delicious), I’d better plan on eating a lot of salad with little dressing for the rest of the day. If I choose to spend my future paychecks now (think credit cards), I’d better plan on not spending any other money.

3. Hold yourself accountable. Notice I didn’t say hold your partner accountable. We are adults and need to hold ourselves accountable. If you make a mistake, own it and try hard not to repeat it.

4. Schedule the meetings when your energy is high. I am an early morning person. I wake up at 5:30 am every day no matter the time zone or if it’s a weekend.

The ideal time for me would be 6:00 to 6:30 on Saturday morning. My wife’s response to this suggestion is not fit for publication. We meet from 11:00 to 11:30.

These are some tricks to make the most out of your meetings:

Put them on your calendar and if you think about something, pull your phone out and add a note to this week’s meeting. That way you don’t forget it.
Use the meetings to develop a spending plan. Your spending plan needs to get you, not the other way around. Look at your bank’s online tools, other online tools like Mint, our Easy Spending Plan, a custom made Excel spreadsheet or paper and pencil. Try different ones until you find the one that gets you.
Find an item in your spending plan that you buy because you have to but don’t enjoy spending money on and see if you can cut that cost. Think of auto insurance and electricity. Any money you can free up from those is money you can save or use for something you want.
Run a retirement estimator calculator and make sure you are on pace to retire. Update this at least once a year.
Run a DebtBlaster calculator and make sure you are paying off your debt as efficiently as possible. Update this every 6 months or when you pay something off.
Review your investments at least once a quarter and make sure you are taking an appropriate amount of risk.

As someone who has done this for a while, the benefits of these meetings include reduced financial stress, you and your partner having a plan and fostering honest, direct and sincere conversations about money. Start now. Don’t wait a decade…like some people.

Should You Follow Senator Elizabeth Warren’s Investment Advice?

March 23, 2017

Last week, I wrote about some of her money management tips as described in an article titled “You, Too, Can Invest Like Elizabeth Warren!” Overall, I found them a bit too simplistic. Now let’s take a look at the investing side:

1. Visualize. Specifically, “take a moment to savor your dream.” It’s hard to argue with this. If visualizing your retirement or other goals helps motivate you to save and invest, go for it. Just remember that the dream probably won’t become reality unless you wake up and take action, which brings us to…

2. Create a retirement fund. Warren suggests contributing 10% of your income to a 401(k) or IRA. This isn’t a bad idea on its face but lacks detail. Why just 10%? The consensus seems to be that the average American household needs to save about 15% of their income for retirement so 10% is probably too low.

Even better, you should run a retirement calculator to get a more personalized number. That’s because the percentage you should be saving depends on your age, your current retirement savings, how aggressively you invest, when you want to retire, how much retirement income you need, and how much you can expect to get from Social Security and other income sources. In other words, you may need to save a lot more or a lot less, depending on your particular goals and situation.

It also matters whether you choose a 401(k) or an IRA. While they can have similar tax benefits, you’ll want to contribute at least enough to your 401(k) to get your employer’s full match. After that, your choice depends on a variety of factors like the investment options in each account and whether you prefer the convenience and simplicity of having everything in your 401(k) or the freedom and flexibility of an IRA. Don’t forget that you can also do both.

3. Invest prudently in the stock market. Warren also recommends investing another 5% (or 10% if you’ve paid off your mortgage) in an indexed mutual fund. Her own non-retirement account portfolio is largely invested in fixed and variable annuities with some money in stock, real estate, and bond funds.

Again, why 5%? The amount you save should depend on how much you’re willing to put away to reach your goals. If your goal is retirement, you’ll probably want to max out your 401(k) and IRA before investing in a taxable account. If your goal is education funding, consider tax-advantaged education accounts like a Coverdell account or 529 plan.

The index fund recommendation makes sense since compared to actively managed funds, they generally have lower costs, outperform over the long run, and generate less in taxes since they don’t trade as much. However, Warren seems to be using deferred annuities instead to shield her personal money from taxes. There are a couple of downsides to this strategy. One is that variable annuities tend to have high fees. Another is that the earnings are withdrawn first and are taxed at ordinary income tax rates.

In addition, her heirs will also have to pay taxes on the earnings they inherit after she passes away. In contrast, long term (over one year) capital gains on stocks and funds are taxed at lower tax rates and won’t be taxed at all when passed on to heirs. Her real estate and bond funds also generate a lot of taxes.

A better strategy for Warren would be to prioritize the bonds and real estate investments in her 401(k) and IRA and use the taxable accounts for the remaining stock funds. This is because stocks are more tax-efficient and their higher volatility would allow her to use losses to offset other taxes. By sticking to index funds, she could save even more in taxes and other costs.

4. Oh, and avoid investing in these: gold, prepaid funerals, and collectibles. I’m not sure I’d call prepaid funerals an investment at all, but collectibles can be a fun way for someone to speculate as long as they’re not counting on them for anything. A small amount in gold is used by many investors as a hedge against rising inflation and other types of instability and can help diversify a portfolio since it typically moves differently than stocks and bonds.

As with her money management advice, you could do a lot worse than funding a retirement account, investing in an index fund, and avoiding speculative investments. But Warren’s investment advice is a bit too oversimplified as well. Instead, find out what retirement and investing strategy makes the most sense for your particular needs or work with an unbiased financial planner who can help you. After all, we don’t all have a senator’s pension to bail us out of any mistakes.

How to Maximize the Benefits of Incentive Stock Options

March 02, 2017

If your employer is providing you incentive stock options (or ISOs) as part of your compensation, they’re giving you a stake in the success of the company (or at least the stock price). ISOs can be complicated though. To make sure you’re taking full advantage of the opportunity they offer, here are some questions to ask yourself:

Are you subject to AMT (the alternative minimum tax)? When you are granted the options and when they vest, there’s generally no tax (assuming they’re priced at the current fair market value of your employer’s stock). When you exercise the option, there’s also generally no tax (unlike with nonqualified stock options, which are subject to income and employment taxes when exercised).

However, there’s an exception that your gain when the option is exercised is considered income for purposes of calculating the AMT. For this reason, you may want to wait to exercise the option until a year when you’re not subject to the AMT. If you’re not sure when that might be, consult a tax professional for guidance.

How long has it been since you’ve been granted the option and exercised it? In order to qualify to pay a lower capital gains rate on all the gain, you need to wait at least 2 years from when the option was granted and one year since you exercised the option before selling the stock. If you sell the stock before then, you’ll have to pay ordinary income tax on the difference between the value of the stock when you bought it and the fair market value of the stock at that time.

It pays to wait, but not too long. Options (or the employer stock after you exercise the option) are risky because your money is tied up in just one stock. That’s why you may want to exercise your options and sell the stock to diversify the money as soon as you’re eligible to do so at the lower capital gains rate.

How much of your net worth do the options represent? If it’s more than 10-15% and you need to hold on to them for tax purposes, you may want to talk to a financial advisor about what options (no pun intended) you have to hedge against the risk of a falling stock price. Otherwise, you may see a significant decline in your net worth should something happen to the stock price.

Incentive stock options can be a great opportunity to participate in the success of your company. However, there are many pitfalls to avoid. Just make sure you understand all the ramifications before making any decisions and consult with qualified financial or tax professionals as needed.

Where Should You Have Your HSA?

February 16, 2017

Do you have a health savings account (HSA)? If so, you probably got it through your employer and have it at an administrator chosen by them. What you may not realize is that you can choose to transfer your account to a different provider.

This recently came to my attention when Financial Finesse changed HSA providers. Rather than transfer my account into the new administrator, I decided to consider my other options. If you’re shopping around for a new home for your HSA, here are some things to consider:

What do you want to invest the account in? If you’re looking to use it to cover immediate expenses, you’ll want to keep your HSA someplace safe like a savings account. In that case, you can just compare the interest rates they’re paying.

On the other hand, if you’re planning to invest the account to grow for the future as I am, you’ll want to see what the investment options are. Many providers don’t even let you invest outside of a cash account at all. Others give you a limited number of choices (including sometimes funds that may be difficult to access otherwise). Some allow you to invest in thousands of mutual funds and even individual stocks through a brokerage account. To maximize my investment options, I focused my search on the latter.

Do you need to keep a certain amount in a cash account? For someone planning to invest most or all of their account, having to keep money in cash can be a drag on returns. In fact, my main motivation for switching providers was that my current HSA administrator requires me to keep $5k in the cash account or be charged a $3 monthly fee that can’t be deducted from the brokerage account, forcing me to leave money in the cash account to cover the fees. It may not sound like much, but if that extra $5k was invested and earned a 10% average annualized return (I invest my HSA pretty aggressively) over the next 30 years, it would end up becoming an additional $82k that I could use tax-free for future medical expenses. That’s not a bad payoff for a few minutes of paperwork.

What are the fees? Fees are another thing that can eat into your returns, especially if you have a small balance. Make sure to include any additional costs that you may be charged for using the investment option, including both administrative and transaction fees. However, keep in mind that extra investment earnings can more than compensate for an additional fee. For example, it’s worth me investing that $5k in my current HSA because the investments would have to earn just .72% more than the cash account to make up for the $36 in additional fees each year.

You don’t hear much about HSA transfers, probably because HSAs are still relatively new and haven’t acquired enough assets to make providers aggressively compete for them yet. But as these accounts continue to become more common, I expect this will be a growing area of interest. For now, at least be aware that you have a choice and depending on how you plan to use your HSA, it could be a consequential one.

Questions Your Future Self Wants to Ask You

February 13, 2017

Have you spoken to your future self lately? According to UCLA Professor Hal Hershfield, we often feel disconnected from the people we will become in the future. In essence, our future selves are strangers to us. Envisioning ourselves in the future, says Hershfield, helps us save more money and make better financial decisions.

In Hershfield’s research, participants were shown computer-aged avatars of their current selves. Then they were asked to make a choice of how to spend $1,000: buying a gift for a friend/family member, investing in a retirement fund, planning a fun event, or saving money at the bank. Participants who had seen the vivid digital image of their future selves were twice as likely to put money into the retirement fund.

I am guessing that if you had a conversation with Future You right now, he or she might have some pretty challenging questions for you. Here are some things Future You might ask you. How would you answer?

Have I turned out the way you thought I would?
How did you manage to save so much for retirement? Tell me how you did it.
I’ve got more money now than I need to live comfortably. How should I put it to the best use?
That was a great investment! Tell me how you chose it.
Who was your financial role model?
How did you decide to choose our career?

Future You could also have some recriminations, such as:

When are you going to pay me back all the money you borrowed from me?
Were those student loans worth it?
He/she didn’t turn out to be a great financial life partner. What were you thinking?
You spent that much on shoes/cocktails/gambling? Why?!!

Does having a frank conversation with your future self sound like just the thing you need to get you motivated to change your financial behaviors? Hershfield’s digital avatar creator isn’t available for public use. However, you can create an aged photo of yourself with age progression apps such as In 20 Years, Age Me, or Hour Face.

The Future Self in my blog photo? That’s our CEO’s son Jay, age 7, who is envisioning himself at 100. You know he’ll make some great financial decisions. Will you?

Do you have a question you’d like answered on the blog? Please email me at [email protected]. You can follow me on the blog by signing up here, and on Twitter @cynthiameyer_FF.

Should You Be In an Asset Allocation Fund?

February 09, 2017

One of the most common questions we get on the Financial Helpline is how to choose investments in your employer’s retirement plan. Investing can be complex and intimidating so it doesn’t surprise me that people are looking for help with their decision. What does surprise me is how few of them understand and use an option that was created to help simplify their decision.

Depending on your plan, you may have a target date or a target risk fund available to you. Both are “asset allocation funds” that are designed to be fully-diversified “one stop shops.” All you need to do is pick one fund that most closely matches your target retirement date or your risk level. (Target date funds can also be “set it and forget it” because the funds automatically become more conservative as you get closer to the target retirement date.)

If you think of investing as getting you from point A to point B, asset allocation funds are like the commercial jets of investing. They’re much cheaper than a private jet (a financial advisor) and much simpler than piloting your own plane (picking your own investments). That’s why when I first heard about these funds early in my financial career, I assumed they would take over much of the mutual fund industry and even replace the need for a lot of financial advisors. While they have seen a meteoric rise, especially as the default option in retirement plans, they still aren’t utilized as much as I thought they would be. I think there are 3 main myths responsible for this:

1. Putting everything in one asset allocation fund is having all my eggs in one basket. What you don’t see is that an asset allocation fund is actually a basket of baskets. Each fund is composed of several other funds. In fact, one asset allocation fund is usually more diversified then the typical mix of funds that I see people in.

So why not have other funds in addition to it? Isn’t that making your portfolio even more diversified? The problem here is that these funds were professionally designed to hold a certain proportion of investments so adding others will throw the balance off. It’s like adding extra ingredients to a chef-prepared meal. Only do it if you really know what you’re doing (in which case, you probably don’t need an asset allocation fund anyway).

2. I can probably do better on my own. Remember that these funds were put together by professional money managers who’ve been trained in investment management and do this for a living. What’s the chance that you’ll create a better portfolio? One study of 401(k) participants showed that investors who chose their own funds did worse on average than those who just went with a target date fund.

Part of that is due to lack of knowledge. However, a lot is also likely due to the temptation to buy investments that are performing well and then sell them when they eventually underperform, which is a recipe for buying high and selling low. If nothing else, asset allocation funds provide discipline… assuming you don’t trade these funds too of course.

3. Asset allocation funds are always more expensive. You would think that this professional management would come at a steep price. After all, paying for investment management typically costs .5-1% of your portfolio. However, asset allocation funds are generally only slightly more expensive than other funds and if they’re composed of index funds, they can actually cost much less than most actively managed funds. Check the fund’s expense ratio before making assumptions as to their cost.

That all being said, there are reasons not to use an asset allocation fund. You may not have one available in your plan or the one you have may be too expensive. Sophisticated investors or those with an advisor may want to create a more personalized portfolio that better matches their risk level or complements outside investments to maximize tax-efficiency. But if those situations don’t apply to you, consider an asset allocation fund. Flying commercial may not be a perfect experience, but it’s better than the alternatives for most people.

Should You Care About a Mutual Fund’s Past Performance?

February 08, 2017

The primary reason that investors choose to subject their hard-earned savings to the ups and downs of the stock market is that history has shown that over long periods of time, it’s one of the best ways to grow your savings in order to outpace inflation and maintain purchasing power. One of the biggest investing mistakes I see though is what we call “performance chasing” or making investment choices based solely on the past performance of a particular investment. I’d argue that past performance is actually the last criteria anyone should consider when deciding which funds to buy and is almost completely irrelevant when looking at index funds. Here’s what I mean.

Past performance is often the first thing people look at when presented with a list of mutual funds, like in their 401(k) account. I get it. You want the best and you want your money to grow as much as possible!

But this is a key mistake that can actually lead to losses rather than gains over time. The problem is that the fund that did the best last year or over the past three to five years is statistically LESS likely to be the best next year, so by buying the “best” based on the past, you may actually be buying high, which is the opposite of everyone’s favorite stock market adage: “Buy low, sell high.” This chart shows that. Just follow the orange square representing “MSCI Emerging Markets” over the 7 years shown:

An investor who chases performance and buys the MCSI Emerging Markets at the end of 2007 because it was the “best” would have lost half their money over 2008. That same investor may be likely to sell at the end of 2008 because they wanted to “stop losing money” and therefore would have completely missed out on the recovery of that sector, when it “won” again in 2009! That’s an extreme example, but follow any of the colored squares over the years and understand a little better why it’s a losing game to only invest in what’s done the best in the recent past. Instead try to spread your investments out over all parts of the market and just “let it ride.”

For investors who like to put their money into actively managed mutual funds, there is a reason past performance matters – so that you can see if the fund is meeting its objective to match or exceed its benchmark. Past performance means nothing without the context of its benchmark. For example, let’s say you’re looking at a mutual fund with the objective of outpacing the S&P 500. Such a fund may include words like “Large Cap” or “US Large Company” or “Capital Appreciation” in its title.

When researching any fund’s performance, look for a chart on the fund fact sheet that shows its performance alongside its benchmark. Here’s one example, showing a fund that is matching its benchmark quite well:

If the lines moves pretty much in tandem together or the fund line is consistently higher than the benchmark line, it means the fund managers are doing their jobs consistently well. If you were to look at a chart and see the fund losing to the benchmark as a pattern, then you may want to reconsider it as an investment, even if the fund is in positive territory. In other words, even if your investment is up 10% this year, if its benchmark is hitting 15%, your fund is failing you.

Likewise, if your fund value is down, it doesn’t necessarily mean you’re in the wrong fund. Markets go up and down. As long as the fund’s benchmark is down as far or further, you’re okay to stick with it.

So what does matter when choosing a mutual fund?

The one guarantee about mutual fund investing is the most important criteria in fund selection: fees. You will pay fees, guaranteed. But you can control how much. That doesn’t mean you want to select funds based solely on the criteria of the lowest fees, but if you’ve taken your risk tolerance quiz to determine a suitable mix of stocks and bonds (see the chart at the very end of the questionnaire for suggestions) and have more than one fund option to fulfill your investing allocation, then fees should be one of the deciding criteria.

What if you’re investing in index funds? Then the only use that past performance really has for you is in helping you to set realistic expectations for how your money will do over the long haul. Look at the performance numbers over the past 10 years or more and that should give you a reasonable idea of the growth you can expect for your own money. Assuming you’re only investing money that you don’t need for 10 years or more, you really shouldn’t care what happens over the next one, three or even five years.

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How to Have The Money Talk

January 30, 2017

Are you in a serious relationship, thinking about moving in together, engaged or even newly married? If you are contemplating sharing a household together now or at some point in the future, there’s no better time than the present to discuss your finances. “Your life partner can be your best financial friend or your worst financial enemy,” according to Financial Finesse CEO and author Liz Davidson. Marriage is an emotional and spiritual partnership, but it’s also a legal financial relationship. Money is the leading cause of stress in relationships, but it doesn’t have to be. The foundation of any successful economic partnership, including living together or marriage, is strong communication with full financial disclosure.

Ground rules

The Money Talk can sometimes bring strong emotions to the surface, so choose a place to have your discussion that will be relaxing and free of distractions to both of you. Choose a pleasant, neutral location where you have sufficient privacy. Keep these ground rules in mind:

Make sure your discussion is scheduled for a time of day that works for both partners. My husband prefers to talk money and night and I prefer the morning. Over time, we’ve learned over time to bring up financial decisions during breaks in the work day, or on weekend days is best if we’ re going to have the most productive conversations.
No alcohol! While a glass of wine could give you courage to disclose your student loan balance, each partner should have their wits about them. It will much easier to listen compassionately without judgment if you are free of cocktails. Feel free to stash a bottle of champagne in the fridge for later to celebrate this milestone in your relationship.
Set a beginning and end time for your discussion. If you don’t finish everything, set up a follow up date.
Don’t judge. Your partner has a different money story and may have different values and financial priorities than you. Refrain from expressing opinions – think of this conversation as an exercise in information-gathering.

What to discuss? Make sure that you’ve covered all your bases:

Tell each other your money stories

How did your parents handle money? What do you think of how they handled their finances? How did that impact you? If you’ve never thought through your money story, the book The Feel Rich Project, by Michael Kay, CFP® has some helpful chapters on how to assess your history.
How would you describe your financial personality? Are you a saver or a spender, or something in between? Do you like to plan carefully, or be more spontaneous? Do you collaborate, or prefer to decide independently? Are you more likely to be meet your own expectations or those of others? Consider using this framework for thinking about how you best create financial habits. If you want to dive deeper into the financial personality question, you can both take an online quiz here or here and compare notes.
What’s the biggest financial success you’ve had? What are the factors which contributed to it?
What’s the biggest financial failure you’ve had? What are the factors which contributed to it?
If you’ve been married or living together before, how did you handle money together? What worked, and what didn’t?

Take inventory – how much to you spend, what do you own and what do you owe?

Now that you’ve reviewed the emotional side of money, it’s time to get practical. Compare notes on your income and expenses:

Income

How much do you each make? Do you expect that to increase, decrease or stay the same in the short term?
Do you have other sources of income, such as rental property, business investments or trust income?

Expenses

How much and what are your “must pay” expenses every month – housing, transportation, insurance, child support, tuition, etc.
Do you track your expenses? What system do you use?

Assets

How much are you saving for retirement as a percentage of your income? How much have you saved so far in retirement accounts, such as 401(k) or 403(b), Roth and traditional IRAs?
If you own your home, what’s it worth approximately?
Do you have an emergency fund? How much do you have in cash reserves?
What other investments do you have?
Do you co-own any of your assets with someone else?

Debt

What is your mortgage balance, rate and remaining years to pay, if you have one?
How many credit cards do you have? Do any of them carry balances that don’t get paid off in full each month? How much?
Do you have outstanding student loans? Are they private or federal loans? Are you current on paying them? Are you in a loan deferral or forbearance period?
If you have non-mortgage debt, do you have a plan for paying it off? By when?

Insurance

Financial wellness means that you are prepared for unexpected and expensive events, such as a major illness or car accident.

Do you have health insurance? What kind of health care benefits are available to you at work?
Do you have short and/or long term disability income insurance?
Discuss your auto insurance. Do you have the bare minimum coverage, or are more fully protected?

Show each other your credit reports

Now comes the hard part. Show each other your credit reports. For many couples, this is the most difficult part of the conversation. Remember, regardless of your credit history, transparency here is an act of love. If you are thinking about spending your lives together you’ll have an economic and financial partnership, not just a romantic one. Full disclosure is essential, especially for engaged and married couples, who will generally be held legally responsible for debts their spouse occurs during the marriage.

Access your free credit reports from the three major credit bureaus at annualcreditreport.com or share your report from any online credit monitoring service you use, such as Credit Karma or Credit Sesame.
Review and discuss any major items, such as bankruptcy, short sales, and a history of significant late payments or charged off accounts. Do you see evidence that your partner has good financial habits, or is working to develop them after a financial mishap?
If one partner has significantly better credit than the other, how will this impact how you manage money together?

What are your financial priorities and long term goals?

Once you’ve tackled the rough part of the conversation, you can head to the fun part! A successful marriage begins with a shared vision. Ask each other:

If everything worked out exactly the way you wanted it to financially for us, what would that look like?
Where do you see us living now? In five years? In retirement?
If we plan to have children, do you think one of us should take a career break to raise them? For how long?
When would you like to be financially independent enough to have the option to retire?
Can you define “financial independence” for me?
What would happen if one of us got sick or laid off? How do you think we should handle it?
If one of you has children from a previous relationship, how do you plan to handle the costs of raising them, including sending them to college? See Financial Planning Tips for New Stepparents for ideas.
If one of you has significant debt, such as credit card balances or student loans, what is your target time to have them paid off completely?

Not a one-time event

Congratulations on getting through your first “Money Talk!” We hope this will be the first of many ongoing conversations about your joint finances. Marriage can teach you a lot about money. Now that you’ve established a foundation of transparency, full disclosure and sharing your visions, set up regular “money meetings” to talk through ongoing financial business. You’ll have a better personal – and financial – relationship for doing that.