Why Uber May Not Always Be Your Best Ridesharing Choice

February 23, 2017

It’s been a few years since I wrote about my first ridesharing experience. The industry has exploded since then, but many people still just think of Uber when it comes to ridesharing. That’s unfortunate because if you live in a major city, there may be better options available to you. Here are my pros and cons for the Uber alternatives I’ve experienced:

Via

Pros: This service tends to offer the low cost rides so it’s usually my first choice.

Cons: It’s limited to NYC, Chicago, and DC and you may have to share your ride with other people going in the same general direction.

Lyft Line

Pros: Like Via, Lyft Line is a shared ride with other passengers, which lower the cost. It tends to be about the same price as Uber Pool, with the lower price depending on your location and whether one or the other is charging surge prices at the time. However, Lyft has stricter standards for drivers than Uber and they might be more motivated to provide superior customer service by the prospect of tips.

Cons: While it’s in quite a number of large cities, there are still places where it’s not available like my current home city of White Plains.

Gett

Pros: Gett tends to be the lowest cost option for a single ride so I tend to use it for  those times when I’m in a rush and don’t have time to share with other passengers. They also don’t do surge pricing, which is when Uber and Lyft charge higher prices during particularly busy times.

Cons: While it’s a global company in cities worldwide, the only US service area is NYC right now and cars may not always be available (especially during said busy times).

Juno

Pros: This is a new company that’s still in Beta mode in New York so they’re offering a 30% discount to new users. Costs are otherwise similar to Uber but with no surge prices. Their claim to fame is being better for drivers so they may be able to attract more, which means more availability for riders.

Cons: They’re limited to NYC right now and tend to be a little more pricey than Gett.

Lyft

If you don’t want to share a ride and Gett and Juno aren’t available, I compare regular Lyft and Uber prices on Google Maps. The pros and cons are the same as with Lyft Line above except that the rides aren’t shared so the prices are a bit higher.

As you can see, things have come a long way from my first Lyft ride 4 years ago. Depending on where you live, you may not have all these options now (except when you travel) but that’s likely to change as ride sharing continues to grow in popularity. Sticking to Uber may soon be as quaint as sticking to traditional taxis.

 

Why Is Your Budget Failing?

February 21, 2017

Why is my budget failing? My friend asked me this question a few days ago. She has been trying to budget for the last few years and just can’t seem to stay on track. I told her that I have found that there are some common reasons why budgets fail and if she addressed the following common reasons why budgets fail, she can become a successful budgeter:

1. Budget categories bursting at the seams. Years ago, I worked with a woman who was diligent about creating and tracking a budget but struggled to handle emergencies. When I looked at her expenses, I saw that over 50% of her spending was her mortgage and 30% was a car payment. There was no wiggle room to handle emergencies. Luckily, she was able to get a roommate and downsize her car. Consider reviewing articles like this one as a starting point as to how much to spend in each budget category.

2. Not sticking to your budget. A budget only works if you actually follow it. I always tell people that there are two parts to a budget. One is forecasting what your spending needs are for the month and the other is tracking. If you are not doing both then it will be hard to stick your budget.

3. Using the wrong budgeting system. Using the wrong budgeting can make budgeting feel like a dreaded chore. If you hate technology, use a budgeting worksheet and either a notebook to write down expenses or keep receipts in an envelope. If you are comfortable with spreadsheets then use Excel, which can do the math for you. If you want more features then explore the various online budgeting software programs and find out which best matches how you want to budget.

4. Unrealistic Budgets. My friend had a family of seven that wanted to budget $350 a month for food.  Considering she had five very tall teenage boys to feed, we decided that her budget was not realistic. If you find that you are constantly going over certain budget categories, consider increasing your budget and maybe using cash for purchases in that category. Also be honest with yourself. If a Mocha latte or a manicure keeps calling your name, just put the expense in your budget.

5. Not changing the budget with life changes. It’s rare that your spending is the same every month. As gas prices, food prices and your utility bills change, so will your budget. Be flexible and adjust your budget to accommodate changes in your expenses.

Now, these aren’t all of the reasons why budgets fail. But if you are struggling with your budget, the list above gives you a good starting point. With a few tweaks, most people can become budgeting gurus in no time!

What Are Your Health Insurance Options When Retiring Early?

February 20, 2017

Are you considering retiring before age 65 but worried you could lose your access to health insurance due to the new administration’s promise to repeal the Affordable Care Act? There’s a lot up in the air right now, and it’s going to take some time to play out in Congress. Health insurance is expensive, and health care costs are likely to comprise a large chunk of your retirement spending.

Up until now, if you are like most Americans, you have participated in a group health plan with your employer subsidizing the cost. With family coverage, the typical full cost of coverage is over $18,000 per year. If you retire early, you’ll need to find and pay for new health care coverage until you are age 65 and can participate in Medicare. Here are some strategies for making wise decisions in the face of increasing uncertainty about health insurance access and costs.

Don’t Panic

It may feel like the earth is being demolished to make room for an intergalactic freeway, but don’t panic.  The health insurance landscape could look a lot different next year than it does now – or it may not. We don’t know very much for sure except that there is uncertainty.

Under those circumstances, it’s helpful to plan for multiple scenarios: health insurance costs more and/or is harder to obtain, waiting periods for pre-existing conditions could be reinstated, or the major provisions of the ACA are not repealed. Prepare an early retirement budget which reflects your projected health insurance costs under each of these scenarios. Remember – you only need to model the changes through age 65, when Medicare kicks in.

Build up your HSA – and don’t spend it

If you are currently covered by a high deductible health plan (HDHP) with a health savings account (HSA), build up your balance as much as you can. Contribute the maximum to your HSA between now and your retirement date. Those with individual coverage can contribute a maximum of $3,400 and those with family coverage can contribute a maximum of $6,750 for 2017. If you are 55 or older, you may contribute an additional $1,000.

Once you’ve contributed those funds, if possible – don’t spend them. Use other available cash reserves to pay for your routine expenses up to the deductible. After you have built a balance greater than your out-of-pocket maximum for the year, consider investing the remainder.

For those retiring early, keep as much of your HSA balance as possible to pay for eligible medical expenses after you retire, including COBRA premiums (see below) as an early retiree and Medicare Parts B, D and Medicare Advantage after age 65. For IRS guidelines on HSAs see here. For more ideas on maximizing your HSA see here.

Increase your cash reserves

The years leading up to an early retirement are a great time to power up your cash reserves.  Work towards building short term liquid savings such as a savings account, money market fund, short duration CDs or Treasury Bills equal to several years’ worth of projected maximum out-of-pocket health care costs.

Look for part-time work with access to health care benefits

Many early retirees have discovered that the key to managing health care costs in retirement is to work part-time. Ask yourself if it makes sense to look for part-time work through age 65, either with your existing company or another, such as these companies who offer insurance coverage to their part-time employees. You will probably have to cover all or most of the cost of your health insurance. However, participation in a group plan may offer more comprehensive coverage. It also isn’t going to hurt to have some extra money coming in the door during the early retirement years to help pay health care costs.

Consider COBRA

When you retire, you may continue your group coverage under COBRA for 18 months, paying the full premium yourself (or with retiree health plan dollars if you are fortunate enough to have a retiree health plan). As mentioned above, if you have funds in your health savings account (HSA), you can use them to pay for insurance premiums for health care continuation coverage through COBRA. Your coverage continues during the same period, and you won’t have to change providers or get used to a new procedure for submitting claims. Be aware: there will be some sticker shock as you begin to pay the entire cost of your health insurance premium.

If you have a pre-existing condition and are retiring within 18 months of when you’ll be 65, COBRA is likely to be your best option in this age of uncertainty.  As long as you pay your premiums, you’ll remain covered up until you’re eligible for Medicare. Even if you don’t have a pre-existing condition, choosing COBRA still gives you a little breathing room to figure out your next steps for insurance once it’s clear what happens to the ACA.

Price coverage on the private market

If you are in good health, consider pricing your options in the private insurance marketplace. The younger your early retirement begins, the more it could make sense to shop around for the right insurance. The private market offers a wider range of options. Compare plans and prices by using online marketplaces such as ehealthinsurance.com or gohealthinsurance.com or working directly with an insurance broker. Even if you are considering coverage under COBRA or the Affordable Care Act, it’s a good idea to shop around and compare.

Take your chances now with the ACA

The Affordable Care Act is still the current law and the infrastructure which allows consumers to buy insurance is still firmly in place. If you are planning to retire soon, you may consider applying for coverage under the ACA and comparing plans to COBRA and what you found through the private market. Even if you retire outside of the open enrollment period, losing your employer-provided coverage is a qualifying event. Start at Healthcare.gov to see what is available in your state.

Depending on your new family income after early retirement, you may qualify for a subsidy of your insurance premiums. However, that is something which could change quickly, so it’s best not to count on it. In any case, you cannot be turned down for coverage. There are many advantages to the ACA for early retirees if the law remains the same or amended: cost savings, universal access, subsidies for lower income participants, etc. The biggest disadvantage right now for early retirees in buying insurance is not knowing whether the same or similar coverage will be available if the law is repealed.

In conclusion, for those considering early retirement, the uncertainty about what’s going to happen to the Affordable Care Act has added a layer of complexity to pre-retirement preparations. For some employees, they may decide it’s best to delay their planned early retirements until there is more clarity about what happens next. For others, they may choose to forge ahead, hopefully with bigger balances in their HSAs and savings accounts to help manage the risk that comes along with this uncertainty. If you have strong opinions about the ACA and what Congress and the President should do next, you can find information about how to contact them here.

 

Do you have a question you’d like answered in this column? Please email me at [email protected]. You can follow me on our Financial Finesse blog by signing up here, and on Twitter@cynthiameyer_FF.

Don’t Pay a Multiple of a Car’s Sticker Price

February 17, 2017

Anyone who has ever been a passenger in my car knows that I am not a big fan of buying new cars very often. My last two cars got to 250,000 and 300,000 miles before I sold them for parts. My current car is a 2002 with over 150,000 miles on it and I’m hoping to get this one to 300,000 miles.

Living on the East Coast, with all the snow and salt, bay/ocean water and sand, the exterior of cars can take quite a beating.  Mine certainly has. That doesn’t even count the kid who rode his bike directly into my driver’s side rear door, leaving a gigantic dent and paint scrape. Needless to say, my car isn’t going to win any beauty contests, but I haven’t had a car payment in a decade or so. I’m not much of a “car guy.”

That’s why when I read this article about negative equity in car loans reaching an all time high, I found it very alarming. Negative equity, for those who are unfamiliar with the term, is not a wonderful thing. If you owe $10,000 on a car that’s worth only $7,500, you have $2,500 in negative equity. Just about 1/3 of all new car purchases in the first three quarters of 2016 had trade-ins with negative equity and that negative equity was, on average, just over $4,800. That’s nearly $5,000 on top of an already fairly expensive purchase.

To me, this is a huge warning sign about how we think (painting with a broad brush here) about the value of a car. To me, a car is just a way to get from Point A to Point B quickly without needing to walk in the rain. To a lot of people, the type of car they drive is a reflection on who they are as people and they are willing to make questionable financial choices in order to have their car reflect the values that are important to them.

If I owned a coffee shop (I’ve been watching Friends episodes with my kids, so Central Perk is stuck in my head) and would sell you a cup of coffee for $3 but would charge you $8 if you drank half and asked for a new cup, how many new cups do you think I’d sell? I’d hope ZERO! But that’s what we do with cars. We (the folks with negative equity) drive them for a while and before we are finished with them (like getting to 300,000 miles), we trade them in for a much more expensive but shinier model and we add to the cost with that troublesome negative equity.

If a person repeats this pattern a few times, they might end up paying almost twice the sticker price for a car. If you add in the cost of interest on a car loan, it could be 3 or 4 times the sticker price. There’s not a car in the world that I’d pay that much for.

I wrote a while ago about how to save money when buying a car, and I still very much believe in that philosophy when buying a car. If you use it, or something similar, you can avoid the ever-growing problem of negative equity in your next car purchase. As pricey as cars are today, don’t let yourself pay a multiple of the sticker price.

 

 

How an Argument on Valentine’s Day Made Our Marriage Stronger

February 14, 2017

When I think of Valentine’s Day, I always think of my first Valentine’s Day after I got married. We were new homeowners undecided as to how to decorate our home. I am a saver and I wanted to bargain shop and slowly decorate. My husband is a spender who was tired of walking around empty rooms and wanted to start buying furniture without looking for a deal (gasp). Our discussion, or rather argument, about how we would buy furniture was the first dose of reality that we had very different thoughts about money.

Now, I am sure some of you are asking yourselves why she is talking about an argument on Valentine’s Day. Trust me. I am going somewhere with this. It was not easy, but after we both stopped pouting, our argument made us realize that in order to have peace, we needed to agree on how we will spend money as a couple so over the next few months we came up with a plan to manage our finances together. The following is how we were able to do it without strangling each other:

1. We had money meetings a few times a month. We had a meeting a few days before the new month began to discuss what expenses were coming up during the month and a shorter meeting before each pay period to make sure nothing changed or was forgotten. The longer we did this, the shorter the meetings became. This went a long way to prevent arguments about last minute unexpected spending.  Consider using a budget worksheet as a tool to map out your spending plan as a couple.

2. We set up communication ground rules for the meeting. First, we agreed to obey the principle my kids learned in kindergarten that if you have nothing nice to say, then say nothing at all. We established the budget meeting as a no nagging, judging, and cursing zone with no sarcastic remarks allowed. We also had to give one compliment about how our spouse managed their money. Work with your partner to come up budget meeting ground rules.

3. I agreed to keep the meeting short and my husband agreed to bring his body and mind to the meeting.  I also agreed to be flexible on the meeting times if important events arise, such as my husband’s favorite team playing. Agree on a meeting date and time where both of you can be mentally as well as physically present.

4. We set up 4 accounts: a joint checking account where both of our paychecks initially went into for the household bills, separate checking accounts where money was transferred from the joint checking account for personal spending that we did not have to consult each other on, and a joint savings account. We agreed on how much each of us would get to spend every pay period. Every couple is different, so discuss the best opton for the both of you.

5. We also came up with spending ground rules. For us, it was that we would not spend anything over $100 from our joint account without discussing the purchase with each other. We also agreed that we would not discuss money spent in our personal accounts. I deliberately mentioned this twice because for some couples, it’s important to have personal money you can spend freely.

So as odd as it sounds, our argument on Valentine’s Day was one of the best things that could have happened to us. It led us to getting on the same page about money, which brought us closer together as a couple. As you celebrate Valentine’s Day, consider using the day to go over ideas on how to help you and your partner manage money better together.

 

Questions Your Future Self Wants to Ask You

February 13, 2017

Have you spoken to your future self lately? According to UCLA Professor Hal Hershfield, we often feel disconnected from the people we will become in the future. In essence, our future selves are strangers to us. Envisioning ourselves in the future, says Hershfield, helps us save more money and make better financial decisions.

In Hershfield’s research, participants were shown computer-aged avatars of their current selves. Then they were asked to make a choice of how to spend $1,000: buying a gift for a friend/family member, investing in a retirement fund, planning a fun event, or saving money at the bank. Participants who had seen the vivid digital image of their future selves were twice as likely to put money into the retirement fund.

I am guessing that if you had a conversation with Future You right now, he or she might have some pretty challenging questions for you. Here are some things Future You might ask you. How would you answer?

  • Have I turned out the way you thought I would?
  • How did you manage to save so much for retirement? Tell me how you did it.
  • I’ve got more money now than I need to live comfortably. How should I put it to the best use?
  • That was a great investment! Tell me how you chose it.
  • Who was your financial role model?
  • How did you decide to choose our career?

Future You could also have some recriminations, such as:

  • When are you going to pay me back all the money you borrowed from me?
  • Were those student loans worth it?
  • He/she didn’t turn out to be a great financial life partner. What were you thinking?
  • You spent that much on shoes/cocktails/gambling? Why?!!

Does having a frank conversation with your future self sound like just the thing you need to get you motivated to change your financial behaviors? Hershfield’s digital avatar creator isn’t available for public use. However, you can create an aged photo of yourself with age progression apps such as In 20 Years, Age Me, or Hour Face.

The Future Self in my blog photo? That’s our CEO’s son Jay, age 7, who is envisioning himself at 100. You know he’ll make some great financial decisions. Will you?

Do you have a question you’d like answered on the blog? Please email me at [email protected]. You can follow me on the blog by signing up here, and on Twitter @cynthiameyer_FF.

 

Is Spending $2 Million per Month a Bad Thing?

February 10, 2017

Well, if you’re Johnny Depp, the answer appears to be a resounding…YES! In a case where Johnny Depp and his former agents are making claims against each other (I have no idea which side’s arguments have merit), there are unconfirmed reports that his spending habits are rather lavish, averaging about $2,000,000 per month. He reportedly paid $3,000,000 for a party that ended with firing the ashes of Hunter S. Thompson from a cannon. Sadly, I missed that party. His prior firm is now suing him for an unpaid loan and he’s suing them for mismanagement of his finances.

This will be an interesting case to watch, and if he needs to generate cash, we may see a lot of Johnny Depp in roles that he wouldn’t have previously taken..or he could sell some islands. For those of us who have never spent close to $2,000,000 in a month, the numbers here seem completely absurd. It’s easy for us to roll our eyes at yet another celebrity who spent money on a lifestyle that isn’t sustainable in the long term.

How many times have we seen this? (Answer: A LOT) How can they not know that this is how the story unfolds? (Answer: It’s THEIR first time handling this much money.)

The interesting thing, at least interesting to me, is that I see this same thing happening on a daily basis, just with much smaller numbers, all over America. Here’s a story of someone I’ve had the pleasure to get to know over the last few years. He works for a big company that is one of our clients and is now, at age 50, ready to make progress in his financial life. He has a great job, a great family, great friends…and about $30,000 in credit card debt that is killing him! He is now struggling to make just the minimum payments on all of his cards.

During a conversation recently, we laughed at how we each made less than $20,000 per year in our first jobs out of college and at that time, we felt like we had more than enough money to live a great lifestyle! Fast forward a couple decades and now he’s earning just over $100,000 and feels like he has less discretionary income than when he was 22 and new to the workforce. As his income went up, so did his lifestyle and spending level.

It’s not quite the reported Johnny Depp level of spending, but it’s not tough to see how that happens. We somehow spend as much as we make, no matter how large the income gets. When that income stops, which we see in sports and entertainment, or slows down – that’s when we see headlines about famous people being broke.

It just happens more slowly and without the press when you aren’t famous. While Mr. Depp owes millions, a normal everyday guy owes $30,000 in credit card debt and it’s incredibly burdensome. Some of it was for vacations, some for car or home repairs, and some was books for college for his son, but it all has added up and become close to unmanageable.

We developed a plan to get him out of debt, which involved cutting back on some spending while increasing income for a 6-9 month window. He and his wife have ideas on how to generate some income thru “gig work” and will use every dollar to pay down credit card debt. Between Uber, Lyft, some handyman work and some graphic design, they will laser focus and work themselves hard for a fixed period of time. The reason I tell their story isn’t for the solution, but more for the parallel that I see between them and Johnny Depp. The numbers may be smaller, but the problem stems from the same behavioral pattern.

What can we learn? As your income goes up, pretend that it doesn’t! Rather than increasing your level of spending, how about increasing your savings rate FIRST!

Get to the IRS limit on your 401(k). Max out your health savings account. Contribute to an IRA. Build a serious emergency fund (a year’s worth of expenses). Once you are there, then allow yourself to increase your lifestyle to meet your income.

What It’s Like to Work With a Credit Counselor

February 03, 2017

One of the things that our financial planning team talks about with people in distress about their debt level is the concept of using a non-profit credit counseling service to help them work their way out of debt. This usually happens after someone has had a few failed attempts at different “do it yourself” debt reduction strategies, like the “debt snowball” (pay off lowest balance first and when it’s gone, roll that payment into the next lowest balance debt and repeat till debt free) or “debt blaster” (pay off highest interest debt and then roll that payment into the next highest interest debt, etc.). After trying those and making very little progress, no progress or actually incurring more debt, people can be incredibly frustrated and feel like they need to take their efforts up a notch and get help from an external source.

When considering using an external source for help in getting out of debt, the number of options out there can be a bit daunting. There has also been enough fraud perpetrated by nefarious players who hold themselves out as debt reduction experts to make the landscape a little bit scary. Given that there is a great deal of uncertainty about how this vague concept of “credit counseling” actually works, I figured it would make sense to talk to a few people who have gone through the process to get their perspective.  Based on those conversations, here are some observations and things I learned that might be helpful for people who are ready to take that step to help their financial lives.

What did the process look like? The first step was a phone call with a counselor to talk about my situation and they pulled up a credit report. From there, we built a budget worksheet for me and my life. 

They contacted my credit card companies, got my rates reduced down to a really low interest rate and sent me a proposal that showed how much I’d pay each month and how many months I’d be paying. I’d pay them once per month and then they pay my credit card bill. If I sent in extra money, they’d apply that to each of my cards.

I’d get statements monthly and they charged a small fee ($25-$35 per month), which I wasn’t crazy about, but I paid it because I was seeing actual progress. While they are non-profit, they aren’t free and that was something I didn’t fully grasp at first. By the time I made my last payment, I had changed my spending habits, I was debt free and my credit score (after the initial drop) was higher than it had ever been. 

What surprised you? In order to qualify for the DMP, I had to complete a budget sheet and I had never done that. It helped them structure a plan that I could stick to with payments that I could actually handle. The closing of all the cards was also a surprise, but it makes sense. Once you’ve dug a hole and want to get out, it makes sense to put down the shovel.

What’s the best thing about using a credit counseling service? They helped me get out of debt and I had a schedule that made sense. Before entering into the DMP (debt management program), I was very scattered and would pay a bit extra on some cards but end up using others. It took 4 ½ years, but I went from over $30,000 in credit card debt to $0.

What’s the worst thing? Finding the right provider. My first shot at it, I used a company that called me. I ended up paying them for 6 months, they informed me to stop paying my credit card bills, and they never paid the bills. I feel like I got robbed, but I didn’t do my homework on them, so I take some of the responsibility for that.

Once I got to a non-profit credit counselor, I was able to get into a program that worked for me. I had to close every credit card except for one emergency card. My credit score dropped a lot when I stopped paying the credit cards and it took a while to recover, but once I got all the debt paid off, the initial pain was a distant memory so it probably wasn’t all that bad.

What warnings could you give to people considering working with a non-profit credit counselor? Be VERY careful with who you choose to work with! The non-profit credit counselors at debtadvice.org have a much better reputation than the for-profit wild wild west approach where you don’t know who is legit and who isn’t.

Don’t get into a DMP if you aren’t 100% committed to a multiyear process. If you’re looking for a magic pill that solves your debt issues overnight, this is probably not the right path for you. If you stick to the plan, you’ll get out of debt, but I’ve know people who start and get frustrated after 6 months and bail out of the program because they aren’t seeing results fast enough.

Like any tool out there in the financial world, the world of credit counseling isn’t for everyone. There are good things, not so great things and even the unexpected thing periodically. Do your homework, ask questions until you feel comfortable and get yourself out of debt whether you do it yourself, use a credit counselor, use a debt resolution company (future blog topic) or end up filing bankruptcy. Reducing and eliminating debt is a fantastic step toward getting yourself to a place where you’d call yourself financially secure.

 

Don’t Spend $25k on a $10k Vacation

February 02, 2017

The winter months get many of us dreaming about our next vacation to a warm place. But would you spend $25k for a $10k vacation? My colleague, Steve White, recently wrote about how this could happen:

Everybody likes a vacation. If you could take a $10,000 vacation where would it be – Vegas, Miami, the beach, LA? If you could choose between spending $10,000 or $25,000 for the same Vegas vacation (same airfare, same hotel, same restaurants, same clubs, same blackjack losses), which would you choose? The $10,000 dollar one, right?

Let me tell you how you can spend $25,000 on that Vegas trip. Book that $10,000 trip using a credit card and make the minimum payments on it. The minimum payments would be about $175 a month and it would take you 12 years to pay if off at that rate.

$175 a month times 12 years is $25,200. Think about it. You could have taken 2 1/2 trips to Vegas for what you spent on 1 trip.

So how can you avoid this fate? One option is to simply not take vacations, but if you value your emotional and ultimately physical health and productivity, that’s probably not a good idea. In fact, spending money on experiences like a vacation generally gives a much bigger “happiness bang” for your buck.

Instead, set a goal for your vacation and estimate how much it will cost. You can even use this tool to find a trip based on your goals and budget. Once you’ve set a target, subtract any savings you’ve managed to set aside for that trip and divide the remainder by the number of months between now and when you want to take your vacation to determine how much you need to save each month. But where will you come up with that money? Steve suggests starting with a spending plan:

A spending plan allows you to focus your money on what is important to you – like a vacation.  The best way to do this is to set a 30 minute weekly appointment with yourself to review your finances. I recommend scheduling this when your energy level is high and you’re able to concentrate. I am a morning person so mine is Saturday morning. 

Whether you use our Easy Spending Plan, our Expense Tracker, Mint, or any other system for your spending plan doesn’t matter. What matters is that you have a spending plan. Personalize it and continually ask yourself, “I see where I am spending my money. Is this really where I want to spend it?” If the answer is no, find one area to adjust and make that the topic of the next week’s money meeting.

This isn’t about anyone lecturing you on what to spend money on but about you taking control over your own finances. Ask yourself if each expense is more important to you than your vacation. (Remember that you generally buy more happiness with experiences than with things.) If not, pay yourself first by reducing that expense and have the savings automatically transferred each month into a separate designated savings account for your vacation. Now you have a savings plan to complement your spending plan.

What if you can’t reduce your expenses enough to fund your vacation? In that case, you’ll have to adjust your goal either by postponing it or by choosing a lower cost trip. Financial planning is all about trade-offs. There’s no one right answer as long as you’re making an educated and conscious decision.

Finally, you might want to use a rewards credit card to pay for your trip. This way you can earn cash or points towards your next trip and actually come out ahead…as long as you pay the balance off in full from your savings. Do this often enough and maybe you can eventually spend $10k on a $25k vacation!

 

 

What If I Can’t Pay My Mortgage?

January 31, 2017

Recently, I received a call from a friend that was laid off a few months ago. She was worried that it was taking longer than she thought to find permanent employment and she was not sure how long her savings would last. She was concerned about not being able to pay her mortgage and was looking for options. My guidance for her was to do the following:

First, contact your mortgage lender ASAP. Even if you are current, contact your lender to let them know you may have a problem in the future. The earlier you contact them, the more likely they are to work with you and the more programs you may be eligible for.

Assess your situation. Most options will involve assessing your current finances to determine your ability to pay your mortgage now and in the future as well as a written reason why you cannot pay your mortgage. Create a budget and assess what you can afford to pay.

Then review your budget for areas where you can cut back. Shelter is essential, so if you are current on your credit cards and late on your mortgage, consider focusing on your mortgage. Ideally, your home expenses (mortgage, HOA dues, etc.)  should not take up more than 25%-35% of your take home income.

In my friend’s case, her situation was temporary and her mortgage was affordable. She had savings and could always do contract work if she could not find a permanent full-time job. If your financial situation is temporary and you will be able to pay your mortgage plus catch up on overdue payments in the future, consider the following options:

  • Forbearance.  A forbearance temporarily reduces or suspends your mortgage payments for a set period of time. Keep in mind that once your forbearance period ends, you are expected to set up a plan to get current on your mortgage, which means paying both your current mortgage and overdue payments.
  • Repayment. If you can make your current mortgage payment but struggle to repay overdue payments, a repayment plan may be an option. A repayment allows you to spread your past due amounts over a period of time.

If your financial situation is long term or you will have difficulty, making payments to get your mortgage current consider the following options if you want to stay in your home:

  • Modifying your loan. Your lender agrees to change the terms of the loan to make the payments affordable. The changes may involve changing the interest rate, the length of the loan, or the payment amount or adding past due amounts to your mortgage principal.
  • Refinancing. If you are current on your mortgage and have equity in your home, you may qualify to refinance your home. You get a new mortgage with interest rates and terms that may lower your payments. Even if you do not have enough equity in your home, you still may qualify for refinancing under the government’s Home Afforable Refinance Program (HARP).

If you if find that even with a modification you may not be able to afford the mortgage payment or you are ready to leave your home consider the following options:

  • Deed-in-Lieu. Also called a mortgage release, a deed-in-lieu is an option where your lender agrees to let you voluntarily transfer the property title to them in exchange for being released from your mortgage obligation. This option can negatively impact your credit score.
  • Short Sale. Sometimes known as a “pre-foreclosure” sale, a short sale is when your lender agrees to let you sell your home for less than your mortgage balance. This option may be a consideration if  you do not  qualify for a refinance or modification and your home is worth less than the mortgage. This option can also negatively impact your credit score.
  • Renting.  Depending on your location, you may be able to rent your home until you are ready to sell or your financial situation has improved enough to where you can afford the payments. Websites like Zillow can give you a gauge as to how much you may be able to get in rental income.

As you can see, there are a lot of options. The most important thing is to keep the lines of communication with your lender open. The earlier you contact them, even if you are current, the more options they may have for you and the more likely they are to work with you.

 

 

How to Have The Money Talk

January 30, 2017

Are you in a serious relationship, thinking about moving in together, engaged or even newly married?  If you are contemplating sharing a household together now or at some point in the future, there’s no better time than the present to discuss your finances.  “Your life partner can be your best financial friend or your worst financial enemy,” according to Financial Finesse CEO and author Liz Davidson.  Marriage is an emotional and spiritual partnership, but it’s also a legal financial relationship.  Money is the leading cause of stress in relationships, but it doesn’t have to be.  The foundation of any successful economic partnership, including living together or marriage, is strong communication with full financial disclosure.

Ground rules

The Money Talk can sometimes bring strong emotions to the surface, so choose a place to have your discussion that will be relaxing and free of distractions to both of you.  Choose a pleasant, neutral location where you have sufficient privacy.  Keep these ground rules in mind:

  • Make sure your discussion is scheduled for a time of day that works for both partners. My husband prefers to talk money and night and I prefer the morning. Over time, we’ve learned over time to bring up financial decisions during breaks in the work day, or on weekend days is best if we’ re going to have the most productive conversations.
  • No alcohol! While a glass of wine could give you courage to disclose your student loan balance, each partner should have their wits about them. It will much easier to listen compassionately without judgment if you are free of cocktails. Feel free to stash a bottle of champagne in the fridge for later to celebrate this milestone in your relationship.
  • Set a beginning and end time for your discussion. If you don’t finish everything, set up a follow up date.
  • Don’t judge. Your partner has a different money story and may have different values and financial priorities than you. Refrain from expressing opinions – think of this conversation as an exercise in  information-gathering.

What to discuss? Make sure that you’ve covered all your bases:

Tell each other your money stories

  • How did your parents handle money? What do you think of how they handled their finances? How did that impact you? If you’ve never thought through your money story, the book The Feel Rich Project, by Michael Kay, CFP® has some helpful chapters on how to assess your history.
  • How would you describe your financial personality? Are you a saver or a spender, or something in between? Do you like to plan carefully, or be more spontaneous? Do you collaborate, or prefer to decide independently? Are you more likely to be meet your own expectations or those of others? Consider using this framework for thinking about how you best create financial habits. If you want to dive deeper into the financial personality question, you can both take an online quiz here or here and compare notes.
  • What’s the biggest financial success you’ve had? What are the factors which contributed to it?
  • What’s the biggest financial failure you’ve had? What are the factors which contributed to it?
  • If you’ve been married or living together before, how did you handle money together? What worked, and what didn’t?

Take inventory – how much to you spend, what do you own and what do you owe?

Now that you’ve reviewed the emotional side of money, it’s time to get practical. Compare notes on your income and expenses:

Income

  • How much do you each make? Do you expect that to increase, decrease or stay the same in the short term?
  • Do you have other sources of income, such as rental property, business investments or trust income?

Expenses

  • How much and what are your “must pay” expenses every month – housing, transportation, insurance, child support, tuition, etc.
  • Do you track your expenses? What system do you use?

Assets

  • How much are you saving for retirement as a percentage of your income? How much have you saved so far in retirement accounts, such as 401(k) or 403(b), Roth and traditional IRAs?
  • If you own your home, what’s it worth approximately?
  • Do you have an emergency fund? How much do you have in cash reserves?
  • What other investments do you have?
  • Do you co-own any of your assets with someone else?

Debt

  • What is your mortgage balance, rate and remaining years to pay, if you have one?
  • How many credit cards do you have? Do any of them carry balances that don’t get paid off in full each month? How much?
  • Do you have outstanding student loans? Are they private or federal loans? Are you current on paying them?  Are you in a loan deferral or forbearance period?
  • If you have non-mortgage debt, do you have a plan for paying it off? By when?

Insurance

Financial wellness means that you are prepared for unexpected and expensive events, such as a major illness or car accident.

  • Do you have health insurance? What kind of health care benefits are available to you at work?
  • Do you have short and/or long term disability income insurance?
  • Discuss your auto insurance. Do you have the bare minimum coverage, or are more fully protected?

Show each other your credit reports

Now comes the hard part. Show each other your credit reports. For many couples, this is the most difficult part of the conversation. Remember, regardless of your credit history, transparency here is an act of love. If you are thinking about spending your lives together you’ll have an economic and financial partnership, not just a romantic one. Full disclosure is essential, especially for engaged and married couples, who will generally be held legally responsible for debts their spouse occurs during the marriage.

  • Access your free credit reports from the three major credit bureaus at annualcreditreport.com or share your report from any online credit monitoring service you use, such as Credit Karma or Credit Sesame.
  • Review and discuss any major items, such as bankruptcy, short sales, and a history of significant late payments or charged off accounts. Do you see evidence that your partner has good financial habits, or is working to develop them after a financial mishap?
  • If one partner has significantly better credit than the other, how will this impact how you manage money together?

What are your financial priorities and long term goals?

Once you’ve tackled the rough part of the conversation, you can head to the fun part!  A successful marriage begins with a shared vision. Ask each other:

  • If everything worked out exactly the way you wanted it to financially for us, what would that look like?
  • Where do you see us living now? In five years? In retirement?
  • If we plan to have children, do you think one of us should take a career break to raise them? For how long?
  • When would you like to be financially independent enough to have the option to retire?
  • Can you define “financial independence” for me?
  • What would happen if one of us got sick or laid off? How do you think we should handle it?
  • If one of you has children from a previous relationship, how do you plan to handle the costs of raising them, including sending them to college? See Financial Planning Tips for New Stepparents for ideas.
  • If one of you has significant debt, such as credit card balances or student loans, what is your target time to have them paid off completely?

Not a one-time event

Congratulations on getting through your first “Money Talk!” We hope this will be the first of many ongoing conversations about your joint finances. Marriage can teach you a lot about money.  Now that you’ve established a foundation of transparency, full disclosure and sharing your visions, set up regular “money meetings” to talk through ongoing financial business.  You’ll have a better personal – and financial – relationship for doing that.

How to Avoid Borrowing From Your Retirement Plan

January 26, 2017

Have you ever borrowed from your employer’s retirement plan? When you need cash in a hurry, it can be tempting. After all, you don’t have to worry about a credit check and the interest just goes back into your own account.

However, there are a couple of reasons why this may not be the best idea. First, you lose any gains your money would have earned. Keep in mind that the stock market averages a 7-10% return per year, including many years with double digit returns so you could be losing out on real money.

Second, if you leave your job before paying off your loan, the outstanding balance could be considered a withdrawal and subject to taxes plus a possible 10% penalty if you’re under age 59 ½. These losses could end up jeopardizing your retirement. Here are some ways to avoid having to raid your retirement nest egg in the future:

Don’t think of your retirement account as a giant ATM. Even if your plan allows it for any reason, retirement plan loans should only be for dire emergencies and no, wanting the latest tech gadget or a vacation doesn’t qualify. Instead, calculate how much you need to save each month and have that amount automatically transferred to a separate savings account until you have enough to purchase what you want. Don’t have enough to save? Ask yourself what expenses you’re willing to cut back on to make your goal happen.

Have an emergency fund. Even if you do have an emergency, a retirement plan loan shouldn’t be your first resort. If your investments are down in value, you may not even have enough to borrow. Instead, build up enough savings to cover 3-6 months’ worth of necessary expenses and keep that money someplace safe like a savings account or money market fund. If you can’t stand the idea of all that cash just sitting there earning less than 1%, here are some ideas to put it to work harder for you.

Consider other options. For example, the average home equity interest rate is about 5%. Don’t forget that it’s tax-deductible too. If you’re in the 25% tax bracket, that loan may only cost you 3.75% after taxes, which is less than your investments will probably earn. Just be aware that your home is on the line if you can’t make the payments so this is probably not be a good idea if you’re facing severe financial hardship.

One final point is that people sometimes use a retirement plan loan to pay down credit card debt. Given how high credit card interest rates can be, this might be a smart move if it’s part of a larger plan to become free of high-interest debt. However, if you end up filing for bankruptcy, you’ll still have the retirement plan loan. In that case, you would have been better off using the bankruptcy to wipe out the credit card debt and leave your retirement account alone. (It’s generally a protected asset in bankruptcy.)

Retirement plan loans have a place, but be aware of the downsides. If you’re not sure what to do, consider consulting with a qualified financial planner. As with any financial decision, you want to make an informed one.

 

 

 

 

Why and How Caregivers Should Create a Personal Care Agreement

January 24, 2017

As my friends and I enter our late 40s and 50s,  I find we talk more about caring for our parents than any other topic. For some, the care involves an occasional check-in and phone call. For others, it involves full-time care. A few were even thinking of quitting their jobs so they can take care of their parents full-time.

If you find yourself facing the same decision, consider creating a formal agreement, known as a personal care agreement, that can help manage the expectations of the person receiving care and their family members and clarify the compensation the caregiver will receive. (You can see a sample here.) Before creating it, consider discussing your desires with family members to avoid conflicts and resolve concerns. Generally, there are three basic components of a personal care agreement:

  • It should be in writing.
  • Money received is for future not past care.
  • Compensation must be reasonable, similar to what a caregiver in your area would charge for the same service. Consider looking at online job agencies like Monster to find out the average pay for the services you will be providing.

The other parts of the agreement to consider are to:

  • Note when the care will begin as well as the expected length of the agreement.
  • Include where the services are expected to be given, such as the care recipient’s home.
  • Detail the services the caregiver will provide such as food preparation, transportation, etc. In addition to talking to the care recipient about the services he or she wants, consider consulting with the care recipient’s medical providers to determine the level of service needed. Assess the level of care the caregiver is capable of giving.
  • Estimate the expected number of hours or days of the week for the services to be rendered. Consider writing a plan to account for the caregiver’s time off such as illness or vacations.
  • Cite the amount of compensation and dates of payments. If the caregiver plans to live with the person they are caring for, consider including whether there is an expectation of payment for room and board.
  • Consider adding in an “escape clause” so each party can terminate the contract. This will go a long way in preserving the relationship.
  • Have the completed document signed by all parties (if the care recipient cannot sign, then the durable power of attorney agent should sign) and notarized.

As you can see, drawing up a personal care agreement can quickly get complicated. Consider consulting with an attorney. See if you have a workplace benefit for free or reduced cost legal services to help you write the agreement. Doing your due diligence can help alleviate stress and prevent a lot of conflict.

 

 

 

 

Should You Move For a Job?

January 23, 2017

Have you received an interesting offer to live and work somewhere else? Moving to a new city can be very stressful, especially if it involves changing jobs or re-locating with an existing employer. While this stress can be heavy on the person dealing with the job change or transfer, it can also affect others.

Before you accept the move and start plotting your appearance on HGTV’s House Hunters, you and your family will have to work through some tricky decisions. That’s the scenario my fellow planner Brian Kelly, CFP® was discussing with an employee on our Financial Helpline recently. Here’s what he had to say:

1. Don’t base your decision solely on the new salary. Think about how far your income will go in the new city. If you are moving to a place where the cost of living is much higher, you might have to eventually answer this question: “Is the location worth it?” The answer to this question might just be “yes, it is worth it to live in a smaller house near the ocean or have to spend more in a town that has more amenities,” but this is a trade-off that you should be aware of. You will also want to consider new expenses you are not currently budgeting for such as traveling to visit family and babysitters.

2. Calculate your net pay after benefits. Employee benefits are now a large part of a person’s compensation. Taking a new job with a salary increase but weaker benefits can actually decrease your total compensation so factor these in. See this guide for calculating the value of your benefits.

3. Consider your spouse’s career too. Think about this in a longer term perspective. In 5 years, is our “team” going to be better off?

4. How does the move affect your children? Moving children can have effects on their education, their relationships and possibly their well being. Do some research on school systems and after-school care. This might impact your decision on where to buy or rent.

5. How does it affect your parents? Some grandparents’ retirement plans center around time with their children and grandchildren. Others will need elderly care. You might need an extra bedroom in your new home.

6. Should you purchase a home right away or is it wise to rent for a certain time period? Purchasing a home is a major financial decision. The closing costs alone can make a short-term home buying decision a bad one if you have to sell before the house appreciates in value.

7. Lastly, you have to consider the real possibility that it doesn’t work out, for whatever reason, and have a plan B. Companies fail, managers can be impossible to work with, the job doesn’t turn out how you thought it would, parents get sick, or you just miss home.  In that case, have a backup plan.

Checklist of things to do:

  • Create a side-by-side budget with current and new income and expenses. Factor in cost-of-living and benefit changes.
  • Have a family meeting with spouse, children and/or parents to discuss how the potential move will affect them.
  • Visit before you make the final decision. See the new work facility, meet and interview people you will work with and check out schools and areas where you might want to live.
  • Research school districts and after-care if necessary.
  • Compare the costs of renting and buying a home. Consider renting, even if it’s temporary, until you are sure of where you want to live.
  • Articulate a plan B just in case.

Once you’ve worked through the action steps, the wisdom of one path vs. another should be more clear. What does your head tell you? Your heart? The balance of both will help you make the best decision for you and your family.

 

Do you have a question you’d like answered on the blog? Please email me at [email protected]. You can follow me on the blog by signing up here, and on Twitter @cynthiameyer_FF.

 

 

My Favorite Credit Cards

January 19, 2017

Do you find yourself stuck with big credit card bills after the holidays? One way to make credit cards work for you instead of against you is by maximizing the points you earn on stuff you buy throughout the year. In fact, I generally enough in points to more than cover my holiday spending.

Don’t forget that this only works if you pay the balance off each month. Late payment fees and interest charges can more than erase the value of points you earn. With that being said, here are the cards I use for each of my major spending categories:

Regular bills: For things like my cable, cell phone bill, insurance premiums, and subscriptions, I use the Chase Ink Cash Mastercard. It pays 5% cash back on the first $25k per year you spend on office supply stores, cellular and landline phone service, and Internet and cable TV services, 2% cash back on up to $25k per year spent on gas stations and restaurants, and 1% cash back on everything else. I keep this card at home so I don’t have to worry about losing it and having to update all my autopays.

Business travel: I use the new Chase Sapphire Reserve, which offers primary rental car coverage and 3 points per dollar spent on travel and restaurants. Those points can then be combined with the Chase Ink points above and redeemed for 50% more in Chase’s Ultimate Rewards portal or exchanged for points 1:1 with one of Chase’s 11 travel partners. There’s a pretty steep $450 annual fee but also a $300 travel credit and a $100 Global Entry fee credit so you can still come out ahead if you travel enough. Finally, it offers a 100,000 point sign-up bonus if you apply by March 12 at one of Chase’s bank branches and spend $4,000 in the first 3 months.

Amazon purchases: I’m an Amazon Prime member and do most of my big ticket spending on Amazon so the Amazon Prime Rewards Visa Signature Card makes sense. It offers 5% cash back on Amazon purchases (for Prime members), 2% back on restaurants, gas stations, and drug stores, and 1% back on everything else along with purchase and extended warranty protections. Not only is there no annual fee, you also get a $70 Amazon gift card for signing up.

Target purchases: I have a Target a couple blocks from my home so I tend to do most of my in-person shopping there. The Target REDcard provides a 5% discount and an additional 30 days for returns. I signed up for the debit card since it provides the same benefits without having yet another credit card on my credit report.

Other purchases: I use the Consumers Credit Union Visa Signature Cash Rebate card. It gives me 3% cash back on grocery stores, 2% on gas, and 1% on everything else. That doesn’t sound that great, but if I spend $500 in a month, I can get a 3.59% interest rate on up to $15k in my Consumers Credit Union rewards checking account and if I spend $1,000 in a month, I get a 4.59% rate on up to $20k in that account. That 4.59% interest rate can easily dwarf the value of other cards’ rewards, especially if you’re more of a saver than a spender like me.

Once I hit $1,000 in a month on my Consumers Credit Union Visa, I use the Citi Double Cash Mastercard. It offers a simple 1% cash back on every purchase and then another 1% cash back when you pay it off for a total of 2% cash back on all purchases. This is a good card to have in addition to any cards you may choose for more specialized spending categories.

Keep in mind that just because I chose these credit cards doesn’t mean they’re the best for you. Think about how you use credit cards and what you spend them on to see which card(s) offer you the most value. (For some, the simplicity of having only one card may be their best value.) Finally, I’m always up for suggestions. If you know a card that might be better for my spending, send me an email at [email protected].

How to Budget for Child Care

January 17, 2017

tania-pic

I was flipping through old pictures of my children and came across the one above. My daughter, now 7, was about 10 months old in this picture. My friend needed a baby for a photo shoot and I volunteered my daughter if I could get copies of the photos. This picture is one of my favorites.

As I think back to when she was a baby, I can’t help but think of how expensive that time in our lives was. In fact, I used to call her my little mortgage payment. With the average cost of childcare for an infant easily exceeding  $10,000 a year, many parents struggle to budget for it. The following strategies can help take the financial bite out of child care:

1. Create a budget to see exactly how much you can spend on child care. Look for items you can cut back on such as cable, eating out or entertainment.

2. Once you have created your budget, decide how much you can reasonable afford for child care. Contact your employer to see if they offer a child care search services. Research childcare options that meet your budget. A private nanny may be out, but a quality daycare facility may fit into your budget. A friend of mine did her budget and realized that it was cheaper for her to stay home rather than put her children in daycare.

3. Once you have narrowed potential childcare providers, ask about discounts. You may be able to get an employee discount or a discount based on where you live or if you have multiple children attending the same daycare. If your income is limited, contact your child care provider or your state’s Child Care Program Office about financial assistance.

4. Consider using employer savings plans like a dependent care FSA to save money for daycare pre-tax or claiming a dependent care tax credit on your taxes. Since you can’t use both on the same expense, weigh your options to see which one is better. In general, a dependent care FSA is better for higher income earners (above the 15% tax bracket) and the dependent care tax credit is better for lower income wage earners.

Don’t let yourself get overwhelmed by the cost of daycare. With a little bit of planning, childcare does not have to bust your budget. A little bit of research can go a long way to helping you find the best childcare option for your needs.

What I Learned From My First Maternity Leave

January 16, 2017

I had my first biological child when I was 41. At the time, I had a busy career as a financial planner for a global financial services firm and was already a stepparent. I liked my job, my team, my co-workers and the family-friendly corporate culture at my firm.

While I wasn’t quite sure what to expect after the baby was born, I had a vision that things would largely be the same, only busier. I’d be even more efficient and organized and cut back on some volunteering so I could get it all done. For those parents reading this, I’ll excuse you while pick yourself off the floor from laughing at my naiveté! If you are preparing now for parenthood, allow me to share some things I learned from returning to work after my first maternity leave:

Your HR Department is here to help you.

My HMO gave me forms to fill out for short-term disability and submit to my employer. It turns out I didn’t need them because my firm had 12 weeks of paid maternity leave with full benefits. My office HR rep was a fantastic resource once she knew I was expecting. She fully explained my benefits and how the leave would work.

Before my leave, she arranged for blinds to be installed in my team’s office indoor-facing windows, so I had a private place to nurse or pump when I returned. My manager encouraged my business partner and me to work out whatever arrangement suited us for my return, including a full-time schedule, a part-time schedule and working from home. Keep in mind that at the time I worked for a very large company that has won many awards for being friendly to working mothers, but even in a smaller company, you may be surprised at what you can negotiate.

It might start sooner than you expect.

As I wrote about here, a week or so before my daughter was due, I developed some unexpected complications and had to begin my maternity leave suddenly. It was challenging on many levels. I felt fine, and there were so many things that were left to do. Luckily, this happened late in my pregnancy, but I have friends who have had to go on leave suddenly with many months to go. A paid maternity leave that starts well before the baby is born could have financial implications.

If you still plan to take the same amount off after the baby then there will be a period of time without income. If you have sick time or PTO available, consider using that first before you begin your formal leave. Once you’re expecting, consider building up your emergency fund to cover an additional 3-4 months of living expenses above what you’ve already saved in case you have to take unpaid leave. Use this calculator to determine how much you can save.

You may want to take a longer leave.

After 12 weeks, I went back to work part time, but I found it was too soon. My baby wasn’t sleeping for more than 45 minutes at a stretch, and I was exhausted. My team at work was very understanding, and we tried keeping my daughter in the office with us for a while.

Eventually, I asked to take an unpaid leave for another three months, under the Family Medical Leave Act. That meant that I could take leave for an additional 12 weeks without pay but without risking my job. I was able to continue my health insurance coverage at the same group rate but had to write a check for my share of the premiums as I wasn’t getting a paycheck. See here to learn more about employee protections under the FMLA.

Accept you will feel torn.

Ambivalence is completely normal during the early stages of returning to work after maternity leave. When I was back in the office, part of me felt like I should be home, and when I was at home, part of me felt like I should be at work. Remember that your HR Department is here to help you manage the changes, so reach out when you have questions.

Don’t let maternity leave stress you out. Your company wants you to have a successful maternity leave and a productive return to work. With some preparation and a realistic assessment, you’ll be ready for it!

 

Do you have a question you’d like answered on the blog? Please email me at [email protected]. You can follow me on the blog by signing up here, and on Twitter @cynthiameyer_FF.

Financial Wisdom From My Grumpy Old Man Side

January 13, 2017

Sometimes I like to have some fun and adopt a “grumpy old man” persona for a bit just to keep everyone around me on their toes. My kids have started to say “OK, Grandpa…” when I get into my grumpy old man role.  Sentences starting with “back in my day” or “when I was your age” or containing the words “poppycock”, “shenanigans”, and “new-fangled” are standard when I’m talking as that character.

The funny thing I noticed this morning as I was playing this part is that a lot of what I say as that person is absolutely true. The principles are valid and while I may be joking around and having some fun, there is some real timeless stuff that I wish more people in today’s world would implement as a part of their lifestyle. Here are some of the top nuggets of wisdom from my grumpy old man character:

Back in my day, if you didn’t have the cash, you didn’t buy it.  I have seen more people get themselves in trouble financially through excessive use of credit cards than for any other reason. As credit card debt mounts, so do minimum payments as well as stress. I can’t count the number of divorces and therapist visits that people have attributed to credit card debt.

When I was your age, I always saved some money for a rainy day. Having an emergency fund, whether it’s a “starter emergency fund” of $1,000 – $2,500 or a 6-9 month cash cushion, is a great way to ensure that your financial life won’t get blown to smithereens in the event of a job loss, injury or illness. An emergency fund is the #1 barrier to unwanted debt.

What’s with all the shenanigans of picking all these stocks? Don’t put all your eggs in one basket. This is a time honored principle that the folks who worked at Enron or MCI WorldCom wish they had reinforced by senior management. The best way to “get rich” in the stock market is to find the next Apple or Google and put all of your money in that stock, but finding THAT stock is a lot tougher than it sounds and you’re more likely to find one that ends up going nowhere. So spreading your risk out among many different asset classes is a great way to participate in the whole stock and bond markets rather than concentrating your risk (and potential reward) in one area.

Who needs all these new-fangled gadgets that you spend so much money on? Another principle that works every time it’s tried is spending less than you bring home. So many people I talk to are very excited about the next iPhone that is coming out or 4k televisions or new and cool technologies that can make people say “wow.” Those things are fun and cool, but they can improve your quality of life only very slightly and they are usually pretty pricey.

By holding off on those purchases, along with driving lower priced cars and living in reasonably priced housing (the things Americans tend to vastly over-spend on), there will be plenty of room for savings and taking on debt will be a thing of the past.  Think about the last “cool” purchase you made and how quickly the cool factor evaporated. Wouldn’t it be cooler to save that money and be able to retire a year or 5 earlier?

Part of the reason that I can act like my grandfather and use some of the phrases I heard as a kid is that the wisdom in those phrases has withstood the test of time. Just like 2+2=4 was true when I was in elementary school and is still true today (although the way it’s taught is different now), these little financial nuggets were true then, they are now, and they will be when my kids are grandparents. (This BETTER be in a long long time!)

What To Do After a Spouse Passes Away

January 12, 2017

One of the most difficult experiences to live through is the death of your spouse. In addition to dealing with grief, there are a host of financial and legal matters to attend to. To help relieve the stress during an already difficult time, here is a checklist of items to take care of:

Get an inventory of assets, debts, insurance policies and bills. This is particularly important (and challenging) if your spouse primarily handled financial affairs. You can use this Financial Organizer to record the information.

Request a copy of your spouse’s credit reports from each bureau so you can see all the debts owed. (You can get free credit reports every 12 months at annualcreditreport.com.) Don’t forget to contact their former employers for accrued but unpaid salary, bonuses, and vacation/sick pay, pension survivor benefits, and life insurance policies. You should also see if they had any life insurance through their credit cards any any lost policies here. Finally, you’ll want to ask the funeral director for at least one copy of the death certificate for each account, life insurance policy, any real estate property with their name on it.

Close or re-title accounts. Here is a breakdown of how to deal with various types of assets:

  • Annuities and life insurance policies: After presenting the insurance company with a death certificate, the death benefits (which may be different from the cash values) will be paid out to the designated beneficiaries.
  • Assets solely in the spouse’s name: These will have to go through the probate process and will pass on to the person designated in the will or if it’s not in a will, according to state law.
  • Assets jointly owned with rights of survivorship: These assets will pass to the joint owner(s) when you present the bank, investment company, or county records office and mortgage company (in the case of real estate) with a death certificate. If there’s a mortgage on the real estate, you may want to wait until the other affairs are settled since there’s a risk of the mortgage being called.
  • Assets with a beneficiary (living trust accounts, qualified retirement plans, 529 plans, HSAs, bank accounts with “payable on death” registrations, investment accounts and vehicles with “transfer on death” registrations, and real estate with beneficiary deeds): After presenting the financial institution holding the account, the DMV (in the case of vehicles), or the county records office and mortgage company (in the case of real estate) with a death certificate (and trust documentation or notarized trust certification in the case of a living trust), the asset will pass on to the beneficiary. An IRA can stay in the name of your spouse as an inherited IRA and the beneficiaries would only need to take required minimum distributions according to their life expectancy. Other qualified plans may need to be paid out to the beneficiaries over 5 years but the beneficiaries can avoid this by rolling the accounts into inherited IRAs, which can be stretched over their lifetime. Finally, as the spouse, you have the unique option to roll any inherited retirement accounts into your own IRA to defer the taxes as long as possible.

Make sure the bills are paid on time. Otherwise, you can get hit with late charges and a lower credit rating for late payments on any bills with your name on them. If you do get assessed late fees, ask to see if you can have them waived due to the circumstances. Cancel any services or subscriptions that are no longer needed (you may be able to get refunds) and put the rest in your name. Don’t forget that your spouse will still owe income taxes and while the federal estate tax return is due 9 months after their death, state estate tax return deadlines can be earlier.

Apply for benefits. If you or your children were receiving health insurance through your spouse’s employer, you may be able to qualify to continue it under COBRA. You may also be able to qualify for Social Security survivor benefits if you’re taking care of a minor child or are at least 60 years old and for VA benefits if your spouse served in the military. If you have a child in college, contact their financial aid office to see if you can qualify for additional aid. Finally, you may receive benefits from any unions your spouse was a member of.

Review and update your financial and estate plans. Re-assess your new income and expenses and make any adjustments that may be necessary. You might also want to run a new retirement calculation and consult with an estate planning attorney to see if you need to update any of your estate planning documents like an advance health care directive, will, durable power of attorney, and living trust. If your spouse owned a business, you’ll also want to consult with the business’ attorney on next steps.

Nothing here can ever make the loss of a spouse easy. Hopefully, it can make it a little less difficult though. Sometimes, that’s the best we can hope for.

 

 

 

How Long Should You Keep Financial Documents?

January 11, 2017

When sorting through paperwork or electronic statements and other records, you may be wondering how long to keep what. Generally speaking, if you can access something online, like a bank account statement, bill or insurance claims letter, you don’t need to keep a paper copy. As long as you’re able to log into an account and download statements, shred the paper (and discontinue receiving paper statements) and reduce clutter.

For other things like receipts and tax returns, a scanned electronic copy also suffices when needed, so if you want to organize your files electronically, have at it. Just make sure you have a secure place to store digital assets like an external hard drive or encrypted cloud-based account. However, there are still a few things that require the originals, such as a will, marriage license, Social Security card, etc. While there are no hard and fast rules for all documents, following are some commonly suggested guidelines for how long you need to keep even the digital copies:

Tax Returns: Seven years is the general rule of thumb for keeping tax returns and the related documentation like W-2s, receipts for charitable donations and other paperwork to support income and deductions claimed. The basis for this is that the IRS has three years to audit your return for any reason from the date of filing. If during an audit, the IRS finds a substantial omission, such as under reporting income by 25% or more, it has six years to challenge your return, so you want to have those documents available to address the challenge.

Life Insurance Policies:  Keep the original policy for the life of the policy plus 3 years.

Medical Records: For medical expenses you paid using a health savings or flexible spending account, you’ll want to keep receipts for up to seven years to show that the funds were spent on qualified expenses in case the IRS audits those accounts. Many HSA or FSA providers allow you to upload receipts for them to track. In that case, you can shred the receipts, but make sure you keep your online access for at least three years after you’ve spent the funds, just in case.

Receipts for Home Improvements: Any remodel projects or improvements that could enhance the value of your home can be added to your basis and possibly reduce any taxable gain when you sell your home, so keep these as long as you own the home for maximum tax savings.

Home Sale Documents: Once you’ve sold a home, you may be tempted to toss all the paperwork you signed back when you bought it, but keep the closing statement that shows you no longer own it in case a future mortgage lender asks for proof or there is any type of future title dispute on your old home.

Bank Statements/Credit Card Statements: Generally, it is recommended that you maintain one year’s worth of statements, unless they are easily accessible online through your bank.  If the statements support tax deductions, they should be maintained for seven years along with your tax files.

Utility Bills: If utility bills support deductions made on your tax return, they should be kept for seven years from the end of the year in which they were claimed. All other bills can be shredded after three months as long as you’ve verified they’ve been paid.

Pay Stubs: If you still receive paper pay statements, keep the latest stub if it contains the year-to-date salary history or keep a year’s worth of stubs until you receive the year-end check that recaps the entire 12 months of pay and the taxes withheld. This is especially important to consider if you’re planning to apply for a mortgage in the coming year so that you can prove your income. Once you receive your W-2 and verify that it matches your pay stubs, you can safely shred your old stubs.

Warranty Documents:  Dispose of these when the warranty expires or you get rid of the item under warranty.

Receipts for Purchases: Once you’ve verified that a charge to your bank account or credit card matches the purchase receipt, you may dispose of the receipt unless you need it for a future merchandise return. Pay special attention to restaurant receipts to ensure that the tip amount you wrote matches the charge to your account. Your receipt will serve as your proof if a wayward server inflates his/her tip.

Investment-Related Paperwork: It’s important to maintain a record of investment purchases in any taxable brokerage account so that you can properly figure any capital gains or losses when you sell. If you have stocks or mutual funds set up for dividend reinvestment, you’ll have multiple purchase transactions to track, so consider making a spreadsheet and keeping the statements as a back-up. You can get rid of any prospectuses you receive though (or sign up for electronic delivery and then delete the email). Investment management companies are required to provide these, but you can always find them online.

Things Not Worth Keeping: User manuals, which you can find online now and ATM receipts.

Things to Keep Forever in a Fireproof Safe or Bank Safety Deposit Box:

  • Birth certificates
  • Marriage certificates
  • Divorce decrees
  • Military discharge paperwork
  • Certificates of authenticity for any original artwork or other valuable property
  • Deed, car title – any document that would be difficult or impossible to replace

Once you determine which records you no longer need to keep, it’s important to properly dispose of them. Shredding the documents before putting them in recycling or the trash will help prevent identity theft. Then go and enjoy your less cluttered life!

 

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