What Are Miscellaneous Itemized Deductions and Are They Worth Tracking?

March 01, 2017

Editor’s note: Please note that all miscellaneous deductions were eliminated with the passing of the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act of 2018, but would still apply for tax year 2017 and prior.

Whenever I’m asked for “little known” tax tips, I can’t help but be a little annoyed. Part of the reason they are little known is because they apply to so few people, at least when it comes to deductions that fall under the “miscellaneous itemized deductions” umbrella. Things like tax preparation fees, unreimbursed business expenses and the home office deduction for employed workers – these are all deductions that I personally have in my life and yet I see no tax benefit because the only way they are actually deductible is if they exceed 2% of my adjusted gross income. In other words, a married couple who makes a combined $100,000 would only be able to deduct miscellaneous items that exceed $2,000, which is 2% of their income. That’s a lot of unreimbursed expenses.

However, I still track mine just in case. I probably won’t have a deduction in a normal year, but should something big come up or we have a year of unexpectedly low income, I want to be able to take whatever deductions are available. Here are the common deductions that may be worth tracking, even if you don’t get to write them off, as well as some expenses that people think are deductible but aren’t:

Common deductions worth tracking

Unreimbursed business expenses. Anything you pay out of your own pocket that applies directly to your job but you can’t put on your work expense report falls in this category. For example, when I travel for work, we have daily meal allowances. They’re reasonable, but sometimes I like to treat myself to a nicer dinner than the guidelines allow. I keep track of the amount I spend over the per diem limit as an unreimbursed expense.

Another example is a professional organization I belong to here in Chicago. My membership doesn’t fit my company’s expense guidelines, but it’s still work-related. I wouldn’t be a member of this group if I didn’t have my job. Other examples would be if your employer doesn’t reimburse at the full IRS-allowable mileage rate or if you subscribe to any magazines for your field. The full IRS list is here.

Tax preparation fees. Even if you do your own taxes, chances are you have to pay for the software or at least filing fees. Make a note of this expense in your tax files just in case you have other miscellaneous deductions that you can add on for a deduction.

Appraisal fees. If you made a gift to a charity that required an appraisal or if you had a casualty loss that required you to get an appraisal for insurance purposes, those are deductible in this category.

Any of these expenses. Many of the expenses that qualify may be one-time things that you didn’t know you could deduct, like repayments of Social Security benefits. It’s worth reviewing the list each year to see if you paid any of these things, in case they push you over the limit.

What’s not considered a miscellaneous deduction

Funeral expenses. If you prepaid your funeral expenses or purchased your burial lot ahead of time, those are not tax deductions, contrary to popular belief. However, once you’re gone, if you have a taxable estate, those expenses may be applicable there (something worth noting for executors of estates.)

Commissions paid to a broker. Fees for investment advice are deductible, leading many to believe that they can also deduct commissions. Instead, commissions become part of the cost basis of the investment purchased, so you’ll realize the tax benefit when the commission reduces the amount of your capital gain when the investment is sold.

Lost or misplaced cash or property. Losing something is not the same as someone stealing it or having it ruined due to a fire, flood or other event, which would make it a casualty loss (reported on Form 4684.) But just leaving your phone somewhere and not having it returned to you or dropping your wallet on the street is not deductible. There are no tax benefits for being careless…

Any of these expenses. Claiming a deduction for any of these items on your tax return could result in a tax levy from the IRS or sometimes even a full audit. While it seems like you should be able to write some of these things off, the bad news is that you can’t. C’est la vie.

I keep a file for receipts that would apply should I end up in a tax year where the total of these expenses might exceed 2% of my AGI. As I prepare to file taxes at the end of the year, I just do a quick review of the expenses that qualify to make sure I’m not forgetting anything, then recycle those receipts if they don’t add up to enough. So what do you think? Are these expenses worth tracking to you?

 

Kelley Long is a Resident Financial Planner with Financial Finesse, the leading provider of unbiased workplace financial wellness programs in the US. For more posts by Kelley or to sign up to have her weekly post delivered to your inbox each Wednesday, please visit the main blog page and sign up today.

 

 

Can You Deduct Your Student Loan Interest?

February 22, 2017

Don’t you just hate making student loan payments? Besides the fact that your student loans (hopefully) enabled you to earn a degree that allows you to command a higher income than you would without it, at least there is a small tax benefit to those loans for those who qualify. Here’s the skinny on what you need to know to maximize your deduction:

There are income limits. If you’re single and your AGI exceeds $80,000 or you’re married and your combined AGI is over $160,000, you can’t take any deduction at all. There are also phase-outs, which means you can still take some of the deduction but not all of it. Those limits start at $65k for single and $130k for married people. If you use tax software or a tax professional to prepare your taxes, the amount will be figured for you.

You can only deduct the first $2,500 paid in interest each year. Probably the biggest mistake I’ve seen here is when people think they can deduct payments. It’s actually only the interest you can deduct, so even if you’ve made well in excess of $2,500 in actual payments, you may not have a $2,500 deduction.

Your loan provider will tell you how much interest you paid. You don’t have to do the math to figure out what portion of your payments were for interest and which went toward the principal. Just look for Form 1098-E from each of your lenders. If you’re signed up for electronic delivery of statements, then you’ll probably have to log in to find your form. Look for a link to “Tax Documents” if your lender doesn’t make it obvious on their home page.

You can deduct interest from multiple loans, but they have to be qualified. If you have multiple loan accounts or lenders, you can add up all those Form 1098-E amounts for your total deduction. But the loan has to be considered a qualified student loan. If you refinanced by taking out a home equity  or 401(k) loan or even just borrowed from a family member to lower your rate, you can’t deduct that interest.

If you claim student loan interest on your tax form and the IRS doesn’t receive a corresponding 1098-E from a lender, you can count on getting a letter asking you to prove the interest was paid on a qualified student loan. If you’re not sure if your loan is considered qualified or not, ask them for your Form 1098-E. If they are unable to provide one, it’s not qualified.

I know that paying student loans is no fun. Hopefully, this small tax benefit will offer a little silver lining though. (In addition, reflect on what your finances would be like if you hadn’t earned that degree.)

 

Kelley Long is a resident financial planner with Financial Finesse, the leading provider of unbiased workplace financial wellness programs in the US. For more posts by Kelley or to sign up to have her weekly post delivered to your inbox each Wednesday, please visit the main blog page and sign up today.

 

How To Deduct Your Home Office On Your Tax Return

February 15, 2017

Updated in 2018 for the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act of 2017

If you have any self-employment income AND you have a home office that serves as a primary place you do “office work,” then the home office deduction is most likely available to you provided you meet the IRS qualifications. In order to qualify as a home office for tax purposes, your space must meet two requirements:

  1. Regular and exclusive use: The space you are claiming as your home office must only be used for that so if you work at your kitchen table, that wouldn’t qualify. I sectioned off a corner of our family room for my office. That qualifies because no one else uses that specific space for anything but my work.
  2. Principal place of business: You have to show that your home is your primary place of business, although there are some situations where you may still qualify even if you have a separate place where you also do business. Check the IRS regulations to see if you qualify.

If you’ve determined that you indeed do have a home office for tax purposes, then it’s important to understand how to calculate what you can deduct. There are two methods for calculating your deduction, and you can use a different method from year to year.

The Actual Expense Method

This is best for taxpayers who have a large amount of space and keep meticulous records of expenses. (The home office deduction is reputed to be a red flag for audit, although the IRS does not corroborate this.) The actual expense method is pretty self-explanatory. You deduct the actual amount of the expenses related to your home office.

Home office expenses

Figuring the percentage

To determine the percentage of your home that qualifies for business use, you need to measure the space compared to the total size of your home. The IRS offers these two examples:

Example 1

  • Your office is 240 square feet (12 feet x 20 feet).
  • Your home is 1,200 square feet.
  • Your office would be 20% (240/1,200), so that is also your business percentage.

Example 2

  • You use one entire room in your home for business.
  • Your home has 10 rooms, all equal in size.
  • Your office would be 10% (1/10), so that is also your business percentage.

The Safe Harbor Method

This is best for people whose office space is 300 square feet or less and don’t want to hassle with tracking records. Here’s how the safe harbor method works:

You calculate your deduction by multiplying the square footage of your home office (but not to exceed 300 square feet) by $5. That’s it! In other words, the maximum amount you could claim each year would be $1,500.

A few final things to consider

  • Your home office deduction cannot exceed your gross business income for the year, but if you use the actual expense method, you can carry over any amounts that you are unable to deduct to future years where you also use the actual expense method.
  • IRS Publication 587 has more information, including several easy-to-use worksheets that can help you figure your deduction.

 

This post is not meant to replace the advice of a paid tax professional who can give you specific guidance on your own unique situation. Please consult your CPA or tax preparer if you are not certain whether you qualify to take this deduction.

 

 

How to Avoid Taxes on a Home Sale

January 20, 2017

Someone recently asked me if they were going to have to pay taxes on the sale of their home. They were downsizing out of a big house and were going to move into the “in-law quarters” of one of their children’s homes. This person was absolutely 100% convinced that he was going to have to pay taxes on the gains from the sale of his house since he wasn’t “rolling the gains” into a bigger house.

When I told him what the tax code says about capitals gains tax, he told me I was wrong. So with him in the office, I called a friend (on speaker) who is a CPA and asked what the tax implications were for selling a home. The CPA said exactly what I said, without prompting, and the soon-to-be-seller was still dubious.

So what is the real story on how the gains from selling a home are treated? According to IRS Topic Guide 701, you can exclude up to $250,000 (single) or $500,000 (married) of gains from the sale of your house IF it has been your primary residence for 2 out of the last 5 years. That’s it. It’s that simple.

There is no rule today about what you have to do with the proceeds. There were things like that in the tax code in the past, but the tax code is an ever-evolving entity. The biggest test is the 2 out of 5 years, which is very easy for most home sellers. IF the house has been your primary residence for the last 2 years, you’ve got a $250,000 or $500,000 tax-free gain.

If you’re married and your home has appreciated by $600,000, CONGRATULATIONS!!! The tax on the sale of your home will be $600,000 (gain) – $500,000 (exclusion) = $100,000 (taxable gain) * 15% (capital gains rate) for a $15,000 tax upon sale. You can buy a house, watch it go up in value by $600,000 and only pay $15,000 in taxes!  The tough part is finding a house that goes up in value by $600,000!

Here’s how you could possibly use this piece of the tax code creatively and to your advantage in a time when housing prices are rising. It’s a hypothetical situation and I can’t imagine anyone really doing this, but it illustrates the tax code’s interesting nature. You’d have to live as a bit of a minimalist to make this work. Moving a bunch of “stuff” can be time consuming and expensive, so the less you have to transport from one place to the next, the easier this is.  This only works if your home value increases regularly……

Step 1 – Buy a house.

Step 2 – Live in it for 2 years.

Step 3 – Buy a second house, move into it and rent out house #1.

Step 4 – Live in house #2 for 2 years and buy house #3, renting out houses #1 & #2.

Step 5 – Sell house #1 by the end of year 5 and the gains are tax-free since it was your home in years 1 and 2.  You could sell house #2 as well and pocket the tax-free gains.

With this example, you can see that if you’re willing to move A LOT and housing prices rise quickly, you could potentially never pay taxes on the gain from the sale of a house. In the real world, though, the IRS code allows most of us to sell a home with zero or a very small capital gains tax in comparison to our overall gain. Fortunately, for the dubious person in the meeting recently, he used his own laptop, went to www.irs.gov and was able to find that my answer was indeed factually correct. By the time the meeting ended, he was a surprised and happy home seller.

 

 

What a Financial Planner Told His Daughter After Her First Job

December 30, 2016

This week, I’m sharing a blog post from my colleague, Steve White:

My daughter is 22 and recently graduated college with a degree in human biology cum laude no less and she has a job working with a medical practice. (I’m a dad so I have to brag a little.) She has done several things that have reminded me why 1) being able to support yourself is important and 2) your kids do listen to what you say.

She called me when she got her first paycheck and said “Dad, I got a paycheck with a comma in it. Now you have to listen to me.” My father used to jokingly tell me that until I got a job with a paycheck, he didn’t have to listen to me, and yes, I jokingly told her the same (full disclosure – my dad did listen to me and I did and still do listen to my daughter). That paycheck with a comma in it meant that she now got to experience adult things that I’ve taken for granted like employee benefits. Her questions (and my answers) that we covered when she accepted her job included:

What health insurance do I sign up for? (the one that fits your situation) Should I check and see which one covers my prescriptions? (yes) If I take the high deductible plan, should I put money into the HSA? (yes) If I take the other plan, should I put money into the FSA? (yes)

How much life insurance should I get? (enough to cover your debt – see this life insurance needs worksheet) Who do I name as beneficiary? (whomever you want to – not me, name your mom) Wow, I don’t like thinking about if I die (Yeah, I know.)

Who is your beneficiary? (Mom) You need to name me as your medical power of attorney [see human biology major – cum laude] (I’ll think about it – aka no, let’s get back to your benefits.)

How do I fill out a W4? (What do the instructions say?) Will I have to file my own taxes? (yes) Can you help? (yes)

Thanks Daddy! (You’re welcome. What other benefit questions do you have?)

Do I need disability insurance? (yes) Why? (You’re statistically more likely to be disabled than die young – 24% chance of being disabled for 3 months or longer.)

Before she got her 3rd paycheck, she called me about budgeting, here’s how that one went:

Dad, I think I’m going to run out of money before I get paid again. (Oh, why is that?) I’ve got $23.42 in my bank account. (Yeah, I’d say that’s a possibility.)

I hate budgeting. (We all do sweetie.) Can you help me set up a budget? (Sure, I do it every day. That is one of the things I’m paid to do.)

(You remember when I decided to start watching what I ate?) Yeah, I remember you arguing with me about how many calories are in a fried pork chop. (Okay, besides that, when I thought about watching what I ate as a diet, I thought about in a negative light. I decided to think about it as an eating plan. That feels positive to me.)

Oh, I get it. I need to think about budgeting as a spending plan. (Yeah, just like you plan what you are going to eat, plan what you are going to spend.) Can you send me that spreadsheet thing you sent me before? (sure: Easy Spending Plan)

When she got her 3rd paycheck, our conversation went like this:

Dad, this morning at work, I was so excited that I got paid that I gave everyone a hug. (That’s nice.) I don’t think they expected that. (They have gotten a lot more paychecks. They have learned to restrain their excitement.)

I’m working on my spending plan and I’ve got a question. How much should I spend on lattes? (less than you do now) But I really like my soy double pump vanilla latte (I know), so what do I do? (Spend less on something else.)

But I need gas and food! (I know.) Dad – sometimes being an adult stinks. (I know.)

(Love ya sweetie.) Love you too Dad.

 

Why I’m Making Pre-Tax 401(k) Contributions

December 22, 2016

Last week, I wrote about how I’m investing in our company’s new 401(k) plan. That wasn’t the only decision I had to make though. Another choice was between making traditional pre-tax versus Roth contributions. Here are three reasons why I chose the former:

I expect my tax rate to be lower in retirement. The choice is basically between paying taxes now versus later. I’m currently in the 28% federal income tax bracket and the 6.65% NY state income tax bracket for a total marginal tax rate of 34.65%.

When I retire, my tax brackets are likely to be lower and I may end up living in a state with a lower state tax rate or even no state income tax at all. This is partly because I’ll need less income in retirement (especially since I won’t be saving for retirement anymore) and also because some of my retirement income will be coming from a tax-free Roth IRA. If I do end up being fortunate enough to retire in a higher tax bracket, I won’t mind paying the higher tax rate on my 401(k) as much since those additional dollars will be less valuable to me at that point.

I’d rather invest the tax savings outside my 401(k). With the pre-tax contributions, I get that 34.65% that would normally go to Uncle Sam if I made after-tax Roth contributions. I can then invest those tax savings in practically anything I want. Yes, I’ll have to pay taxes on the investment earnings, but I estimate that my higher expected returns in those outside investments will outweigh the taxes.

I can convert to a Roth later. One thing I love is keeping my options open. When I eventually leave the company, I can convert my 401(k) into a Roth IRA. (I’ll have to pay taxes on anything I convert so hopefully my tax bracket will be lower in at least that year.) However, if I choose the Roth option, there’s no way to go back and recover the benefit of lower taxable income.

Does this mean everyone should make pre-tax contributions? Absolutely not. If you expect your tax rate will be higher in retirement or if you’re maxing out your contributions and want to shield as much of it from taxes as possible, the Roth option would probably make more sense. As always, the best choice depends on your particular situation. Just remember that either choice is better than not contributing at all (or delaying due to analysis paralysis).

 

 

Should You File Your Taxes Jointly?

November 16, 2016

Post updated 1/17/2018

I remember the first year after my brother got married, when he called to ask me a tax question and shared that he and his new wife had decided to file “single” status because that way they both got refunds. I felt like a real jerk crushing their refund joy when I told them that they don’t actually get to choose. Once you’re married, your choices are narrowed to “married filing jointly” or “married filing separately” (or MFJ versus MFS).

Generally speaking, the government wants married people to file joint returns, so they make it pretty unattractive to file separately (although that’s gotten better with the new tax rules), even though the “marriage penalty” is real when it comes to tax brackets and other limitations. For most married couples, it makes the most sense to file jointly. But there are some instances when it might make sense to file separately: (You can switch from year to year.)

One spouse has high medical expenses but a low income: This would make it easier for the doctor bills to exceed the 7.5% threshold necessary to deduct medical costs.

One spouse explores more creative methods of tax avoidance: When you sign a joint return, you’re accepting legal responsibility for everything on the return. If you know your spouse takes liberties with tax deductions, you may want to file separately to protect yourself if the IRS comes calling. There is such a thing as innocent spouse relief, but you have to prove you actually didn’t know of the questionable practices to qualify.

You’re heading for single status anyway: Your filing status is determined based on your marriage status on December 31st. If you’re in the process of getting divorced, but it isn’t final by the end of the year, you may choose to file separately to avoid being tied together by tax issues after the marriage is over. When I got divorced many years ago, we filed in December, but the divorce wasn’t final until January. We filed a joint return that last year and agreed to split the refund, but that only worked because we still had a modicum of trust with each other on financial issues.

However, most couples choose to file jointly as there are many drawback to filing separately:

Tax brackets may be less favorable. MFS marginal brackets have taxpayers jumping up to higher brackets at lower incomes than MFJ taxpayers.

You may have lower deductions and credits. If one spouse itemizes, both have to even if one spouse would receive a higher deduction using the standard amount. Spouses split joint deductions like mortgage interest for a mortgage in both names, but charitable deductions and other itemized deductions go on the return of the spouse that paid them, which could leave a spouse with very few itemized deductions claiming less than they’d get as a single taxpayer.

If you file MFS, you also cannot claim many credits and deductions such as the earned income credit, adoption expenses, child and dependent care and education credits, and the student loan interest deduction. In addition, the child tax credit is reduced and you can only deduct $1,500 of capital losses per year versus $3,000 for MFJ.

For most people, filing jointly will make the most sense. The best way to decide would be to figure out your taxes both ways. Many tax software programs do this analysis for you. Then file according to the method that leads to the lowest overall tax bill for your family.

 

 

When Should You Go the DIY Route?

October 24, 2016

Have you ever wondered, “when does it pay to have a professional do it versus doing it myself?” My fellow planner, Cyrus Purnell, CFP® and I were chatting about our funny home improvement adventures. Then the conversation turned to other areas where sometimes it’s better to go it alone and sometimes to get help. Here’s what he told me:

A couple of weeks ago, I saw an Instagram post of a buddy of mine with his face buried in his hands and a pair of car keys with the hashtag #failmomentoftheday. Apparently, he tried to program a new key for his wife’s car and managed to deprogram both keys. The result was hiring a tow truck to haul the car to the dealership – what he was trying to avoid in the first place.

I spoke with him afterwards and he mentioned he was convinced to go the DIY route after watching YouTube videos. If alcohol is liquid courage, YouTube is definitely digital courage. My own failures after a little digital courage include: various attempts to fix my car and lawnmower, burnt pieces of meat offered up to the grill gods and a Craigslist’s furniture fixer upper which now resides in my attic.

I can now laugh at these DIY disasters. However, sometimes doing it yourself may not be a laughing matter. At what point does the cost of making a rookie mistake outweigh the price of having someone else do it?

When does it make sense to hire a financial advisor to help guide you in decisions related to your nest egg? Should you try to write your own will? Can you find the best insurance and mortgage rates on your own? Here are some thoughts on the value of hiring a professional:

When should you hire a financial advisor?

The value of a financial advisor is found in their ability to work with you to build a portfolio you can tolerate during the inevitable ups and downs of the market. Time in the market generally beats timing the market and a good advisor can help you stay on track in this area. Additionally, once your nest egg is in place, a good financial advisor helps you design a strategy which allows you to take income.

If you want to invest outside of your employer’s retirement plan and retirement is more than 10 years away, DIY investing can make sense. There are a lot of low cost investment options to consider or robo adviser options which can function as an “advisor lite.” If you are simply not comfortable going alone or you are nearing your investment goal, it may be time to interview an investment advisor.

Financial advisor is a generic term so you may want to look for someone reputable and with training specific to your needs. My colleague Erik Carter wrote a blog post that explains exactly what to look for in a trusted adviser: https://www.financialfinesse.com/2012/10/04/can-you-really-trust-your-financial-adviser/. Doing your due diligence is so important my CEO wrote a book about it: What Your Financial Advisor Isn’t Telling You: The Ten Essential Truths You Need to Know About Your Money. That’s a good place to start to see if you really need one.

When do you need a professional to assist with estate planning?

An estate plan can direct where your assets such as a car, home, business, savings, etc., will go in the event of your death. Our own mortality is not the most pleasant topic, but it is one we all deal with it. A well thought out estate plan can make it much easier for those we leave behind.

If you have a blended family or assets across multiple states, professional assistance is especially helpful. If you think a trust might be necessary, you will certainly need to have an attorney to establish one. If you are looking for an attorney that practices estate planning law in your area, a great resource is your local estate planning council: http://www.naepc.org/. Also consider looking into whether your employer offers a legal assistance benefit.

Do you feel your situation does not merit hiring an attorney? Then it can make sense to find a tool to help you put a will in place. Websites like nolo.com offer wills which conform to the laws of your state.

When do you need to hire a tax professional?

If you are filing a 1040EZ or you are not claiming deductions beyond your home and your kids then using tax software will typically do a good job of filing your taxes at a minimal cost. There are cases when a software program may not be the right fit though. If you own a small business, collect income from rental property or if you are settling an estate, hiring a certified public accountant or an enrolled agent can be a very prudent investment.

If you are going to pay someone to help you, hiring a CPA, EA or an attorney would be preferable because they can speak to the IRS on your behalf if you are ever audited. Not only can these professionals help you file your taxes, but they can also give you advice regarding how to run your business to take maximum advantage of the tax rules. The IRS actually offers a site to find qualified professionals in your area: https://www.irs.gov/tax-professionals/choosing-a-tax-professional

When should you work with  a mortgages or insurance broker?

From personal experience, I can suggest the more “plain vanilla” your circumstance is the more likely you can save some time and money online, but the more complex your circumstances are, the better off you may be with a seasoned professional. What is not “plain vanilla?” In the case of life, disability, and long term care insurance, if you have a health condition that could be viewed as negative or uncommon, it may pay to talk to an insurance broker. They can point you to the right companies that will insure you in spite of that condition. In the case of a mortgage, if you have some instances which merit explaining on your credit report, it may pay to have a mortgage broker shop and find the bank or mortgage company that would look more favorably on your situation.

Knowing whether to hire someone or DIY can be tricky. Hopefully this gives you an idea of when to call someone. Otherwise, you may experience your own #failmomentoftheday.

 

Do you have a question you’d like answered on the blog? Please email me at [email protected]. You can follow me on the blog by signing up here, and on Twitter @cynthiameyer_FF.

 

How to Deduct Your Moving Expenses

October 12, 2016

Editor’s note: The moving expense deduction was eliminated with the passing of the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act of 2018, but would still apply for tax year 2017 and prior.

I know several people who have embarked upon long distance moves recently, which also means that they were often changing jobs. My first question when I learned of the moves was, “You know you can deduct your moving expenses, right?” First, here’s what the IRS has to say about it:

If you moved due to a change in your job or business location or because you started a new job or business, you may be able to deduct your reasonable moving expenses but not any expenses for meals [emphasis added]. You can deduct your moving expenses if you meet all three of the following requirements:

  • Your move closely relates to the start of work
  • You meet the distance test
  • You meet the time test

Here’s what that means:

Related to the start of work: Your move doesn’t have to be because you got a new job, but the two events do need to be closely related. Specifically, you can deduct moving expenses incurred within one year from the date you first started your new job.

Distance test: Your new job must be at least 50 miles further from your old home than your old job was from your old home. If you weren’t working before you moved, then your new job must be at least 50 miles from your old home.

For example, when I graduated college in Michigan and moved to Cincinnati to start my new job, I was able to deduct my moving expenses. But when I moved to a new house in Cincinnati about the same time I started a different job, my new commute was only 5 miles longer than my old commute, so those expenses were not deductible. If you had a 5 mile commute that turned into a 55 mile commute and you switched jobs to work closer to home, you could deduct.

Time test: You have to work full-time at least 39 weeks during the first 12 months immediately after you arrive in your new location. If you’re self-employed, that time requirement increases to require full-time work for at least 39 weeks out of 12 months and for a total of at least 78 weeks during the first 24 months. So a self-employed person who works full-time for a year and 26 weeks from the day they arrive would qualify. There are exceptions to this rule for death, disability, involuntary separation, and a few other things. Publication 521 lists them all.

If you pass all of those tests, then you can deduct your moving expenses. It’s what we CPA geeks call an “above the line” deduction, which has a more favorable effect on your taxes than “below the line” deductions like mortgage interest, taxes and charitable giving. Moving expenses actually decrease your adjusted gross income, a number upon which other tax calculations are determined, including eligibility to deduct medical expenses and even your state taxable income.

What You Can Deduct

Generally speaking, you can deduct any expenses that were incurred to move your stuff, including travel. That includes the cost of storage up to 30 consecutive days, supplies such as tape, boxes, moving blankets, etc., any costs to move pets (I once had a client pay FedEx to move his horse from Florida to California) and your mileage for making the drive there. If your move involves an overnight in a hotel, you can also deduct that along with the cost of renting a moving truck. You’ll have to complete Form 3903 and file it with that year’s return and make sure you keep receipts for everything in case the IRS wants proof.

Remember, the purpose of the move doesn’t have to be because you found a new job. You can move to a new place because you want to move and as long as you switch jobs and meet the three tests, you also get a little tax boost to offset the costs. Moving is expensive. Take advantage of all the breaks you can get!

 

If you have questions that we can answer on the blog, please send me an email, and I’ll do my best to help. Did you know you can also sign up to receive my blog posts every week, delivered straight to your inbox? Just head over to our blog main page, enter your email address and select which topics or bloggers’ posts you’d like to receive. You may also follow me on Twitter and Facebook as well.

How To Take Money Out Of Your Accounts In Retirement

September 22, 2016

Updated April, 2018

We typically spend most of our working life putting money in accounts for retirement, but how do we take them out after we retire? I recently received a question from a “long time reader, first time caller,” about how to order which accounts he will withdraw from when he retires soon. The conventional wisdom is to withdraw money first from taxable accounts, then tax-deferred accounts, and then tax-free accounts in order to allow your money to grow tax-deferred or tax-free as long as possible. However, there are a few other things you might want to consider too:

Will you need to purchase health insurance before you’re eligible for Medicare at 65? If so, your eligibility for subsidies under the Affordable Care Act is partly based on your taxable income. In that case, you might want to tap money that’s already been taxed like savings accounts and money that’s tax-free like Roth accounts to maximize your health insurance subsidy (but not so low that you end up on Medicaid instead). You can use this calculator to estimate what that amount would be.

Are you collecting Social Security yet? Withdrawing from tax-free Roth accounts can also reduce the taxes on your Social Security. That’s because the amount of your Social Security that’s taxable (either 0, 50%, or 85%) depends on your overall taxable income plus nontaxable interest (like muni bonds) but not tax-free Roth withdrawals.

How can you minimize your tax rate? First, you’ll want to withdraw (or convert to a Roth) at least about $12k a year from your pre-tax accounts because the standard deduction makes that income tax-free. If you have other deductions, you may be able to have even more tax-free income. Then take a look at the tax brackets and see how much income you can withdraw before going into a higher bracket.

For example, a married couple’s first $19,050 of taxable income is only taxed at 10%, with the next $58,350 is taxed at 12% according to 2018 tax brackets. Any long term capital gains at those levels are taxed at 0%. If you’re about to go into a higher bracket, you may want to use tax-free income to avoid those higher rates. Just keep in mind that pensions and taxable Social Security (see above) will also count as income in determining your tax bracket.

How do you put it all together? Your withdrawal strategy may change and adjust based on the situation. You may tap into savings accounts (including your HSA) and sell taxable investments to maximize your health insurance credits until 65. Then you may withdraw from taxable accounts until you collect Social Security benefits at age 70, which draws down your required minimums at 70 1/2 while maximizing your Social Security payment. At that point, you can continue withdrawing from your taxable accounts to fill in the lower tax brackets and then use tax-free accounts to avoid the next tax bracket.

Of course, this all assumes that you have investments in multiple types of tax accounts. Otherwise, it doesn’t really apply to you. But if you do, you might want to consult with a qualified and unbiased financial planner to help you sort it out and come up with the right strategy. If your employer offers that as a free benefit, it might be a good place to start.

 

Should You Contribute Pre-tax or Roth?

September 15, 2016

That’s one of the most common questions we get. For example, I recently received the following email: (My response follows.)

I am a 26 year old in my fourth year as a police officer. I’ve been contributing to my employers 401a and deferred comp programs for about 3 years. My contributions have been Roth and after reading your article, I’m wondering if that’s the best option for me. I have a part time job at the local mall that matches 5% of pre tax contribution and I max out there as well. I don’t plan on using the money until retirement, so should I switch my main employer to pre tax as well? This year I’ll make around 60-70k, but next year I’ll probably make around 80k. My goal is to save near a million dollars for retirement and I’m not quite sure how to figure my retirement income. Can you guide me in the right direction?

First of all, great job on contributing to all those retirement accounts at such a young age! The earlier you can save for retirement, the longer that money will be working for you. This will definitely put you in a much better position for retirement.

The basic decision is whether you’d rather pay taxes on your savings now (Roth) or when you take them out of your retirement account (pre-tax). Assuming you’re single, you would currently be in the 25% tax bracket so every dollar you put in those retirement accounts pre-tax is avoiding a 25% tax rate. If you retire with a million dollars, you could safely withdraw about 4% or $40k a year. In addition to the $28k of Social Security benefits you’re projected to receive at your normal retirement age of 67, your $68k of total retirement income would put you in the same 25% tax bracket at retirement.

Not all your retirement income would be taxed at 25% though. Based on your total retirement income, only 85% or about $24k of your Social Security benefits would be taxable. At least about $10k of your income wouldn’t be taxed because of the personal exemption and standard deduction so your taxable income would be no more than about $54k. Using today’s tax rates (which are adjusted for inflation), the first $9,275 of taxable income would be taxed at 10%, the next $28,374 would be taxed at 15%, and only the last $16,351 would be taxed at that 25% rate. As a result, your average or effective tax rate in retirement would actually be about 17%.

Of course, this assumes that you don’t have a lot of deductions like mortgage interest that would go away by the time you retire. It also assumes that the tax code stays the same. If your effective tax rate ends up being higher in retirement, you would be better off with a Roth account.

Confused? One simple solution would be to diversify by contributing pre-tax to your employer’s retirement accounts as well as to a Roth IRA. That’s because the Roth IRA has the additional benefit of the contributions being available anytime without tax or penalty. It may also be helpful to have some tax-free money in retirement to qualify for higher health insurance subsidies if you decide to retire before you’re eligible for Medicare at age 65.

Don’t overthink it though. Whichever option (or combination of options) you choose, the most important thing is that you’re contributing for retirement. The less optimal option is still much better than not saving at all.

 

 

 

How Should You Calculate Your Tax Withholding?

September 01, 2016

Do you end up owing too much to the IRS during tax season or get back a big refund? The former can be a nasty surprise and even lead to penalties if you owe too much while the latter means that you made a large interest-free loan to Uncle Sam. In any case, if you’re unhappy with the result or had a significant life event like a like a change in your job or family situation, you may want to adjust your tax withholding. I usually owe a little bit but this year, I got a sizeable refund because of expenses my rental properties. Here are my experiences with some of the ways to calculate the right number of allowances to claim:

Form W-4 Personal Allowances Worksheet: This is probably what most people use since it comes with the form you give to your employer to determine withholding. It’s pretty simple to fill out if you don’t itemize, but if you do, it will require you to have your tax return and do some calculations. According to the worksheet, I should continue to take 2 allowances (assuming my math was correct for the itemized part).

The IRS Withholding Calculator: Since this is an official IRS calculator, it’s often the next stop for those who want a more sophisticated calculation or don’t want to do their own math. The downside is that it feels like an official IRS calculator. It actually took me longer to complete and in addition to my tax return, I also needed to lookup info from my last paycheck. It suggested that I increase my allowances to 3 to reduce my refund to about $75.

TurboTax Withholding Calculator: I use TurboTax to prepare and file my taxes, but I was disappointed in their withholding calculator. I actually found it to be as time consuming to fill out as the IRS one but it left some info out. As a result, it ended up telling me to stick with the original 2 allowances.

Kiplinger’s Easy-to-Use Tax Withholding Calculator: This calculator lived up to its name. I still needed my tax return, but it only asked 3 questions and directed me where to look for the answers on my return. However, its suggestion of increasing my allowances by 3 to increase my monthly take-home pay by about $280 was the most radical. Given the simplicity of the required inputs and the outlying result, I’m a bit skeptical of the accuracy of this one, at least for more complex tax situations.

My personal verdict is to simply use the form W-4 worksheet. I had to do a little math but it was still one of the least time-consuming. The IRS calculator probably gave me the most accurate estimate, but I personally don’t mind having a little extra withheld, especially since my rental property deductions may not be as high this year. It’s not like I’d be earning much interest these days on that extra money anyway.

However, if you’d like to make your withholding more precise, you may want to use one of the online calculators. I’d suggest the IRS one for accuracy and the Kiplinger’s one if your tax return is really simple. Leave TurboTax to the actual return.

 

What Should You Do With That Old Retirement Plan?

August 18, 2016

One of the questions I get from time to time on our financial helpline is what someone should do with their retirement plan when they leave a job. They often end up simply leaving the plan there, but that’s not always the best choice. Let’s look at the options:

Leave the money there. This is typically allowed as long as you have at least $5k in the plan. If you’re retired, you may be able to take periodic withdrawals. It’s the simplest choice because it requires no action from you.

Some good reasons to leave the money there are because you want to have access to a unique investment in the plan or you’d like to pay a lower tax on the appreciation of any employer stock in the plan when you eventually withdraw it. Otherwise, you’re probably better off rolling into another retirement plan to consolidate your accounts and provide you with more investment options. You’ll also have to take a required minimum distribution from each 401(k) and 403(b) you have at age 70 1/2 (unless you’re still working there).

Take the money and run. You can have them send you a check for the balance. However, you’ll have to pay taxes (plus potentially a 10% penalty if you’re under age 55 or if you’re under age 59 ½ and you left your employer before the year you turned 55) on it. If it’s a large enough distribution, that money could also put you in a higher tax bracket.

Roll it over. If you don’t want to leave the money behind or send a big check to Uncle Sam, rolling it into a new retirement account allows you to continue postponing the taxes on it. An IRA generally gives you more investment options while rolling it into your employer’s plan can allow you to consolidate your retirement accounts and possibly give you the option  of borrowing against it. If you change your mind, the money you roll into your employer’s plan can typically be rolled into an IRA and vice versa.

Turn it into guaranteed income. Some plans allow you to use your retirement plan balance to purchase an immediate income annuity at discounted rates (and hence you’d get higher payments) or even into a pension plan if you have one. This provides an income that you can’t outlive and avoids any early withdrawal penalties. The downside is that you generally give up the lump sum of money and should only be considered when you’re ready to retire.

Personally, I’d roll my 401(k) into my IRA if I were to leave Financial Finesse because I’d like to have more investment options. I also know people who prefer to keep things simple by rolling everything into their current employer’s plan. If you’re still not sure what to do, consider speaking to an unbiased financial professional.

 

Why Health Savings Accounts Are Such a Great Deal

August 10, 2016

Health savings accounts have been around for several years now, but we still find that there are plenty of people out there who don’t understand how they work or why they can be such a great deal. We are lucky enough to have access to them at Financial Finesse and my colleagues with great health and relatively little expenses simply love the plan. Here’s why: it’s a high-deductible plan connected to a health savings account (HSA), a plan type that is becoming more and more common as traditional insurance premiums continue increasing.

In our case, our company pays lower premiums because we have to spend $3,500 each year before the insurance even begins to cover us. That doesn’t sound like a great deal for us employees though, huh? That’s what a lot of people originally think too. But the other side is that our employer uses the savings to put $2,500 each year into a health savings account for each of us that we can then use to pay that $3,500 deductible. As a result, we would only have to pay an additional $1,000 to reach the deductible, and that’s only after our healthcare costs exceed $2,500.

The best part is that we pay no taxes on this money and unlike FSAs, we get to keep whatever we don’t spend in our account. That doesn’t mean you can take the money and splurge it on a nice vacation (at least not without paying taxes plus a 20% penalty on it). But it does mean you can invest that money in your HSA tax-deferred until age 65, when you can then spend it on retirement without penalty, use it tax-free for medical expenses (which Fidelity estimates will be about $245,000 over the remaining lifetime of a 65-yr old couple without retiree health insurance), or just let it continue to grow tax-deferred.

The interesting thing is that it changes your whole view on health spending. Normally, you probably just go to the doctor when you feel sick and don’t think much about costs since someone else (the insurance company directly and your employer indirectly through higher premiums) is paying. Think about how you’d spend if other areas of your life worked that way (as someone who loves to eat out, I wish my company provided us food insurance). Instead, when the dentist asks when the last time you had your x-rays done, you’re more likely make sure you know the answer before paying for x-rays you don’t need.

Annual wellness visits are free of charge by law. If you rarely get sick, you may not have to spend any money at all while still keeping up on your vital visits (and banking those employer contributions). You can also use your HSA for medical expenses as well as on your spouse and dependents even if they’re not covered on your health insurance plan.

Another thing I love about HSAs is that an individual at my company can also add another $850 to it each year since the limit is $3,350 per year for a single person. If you have the deposits deducted from your paycheck, you also don’t have to pay the 7.5% payroll tax on it. Not even 401(k) contributions let you do that. When you consider that HSAs offer you both pre-tax contributions AND the potential for tax-free withdrawals, there’s an argument for funding it even ahead of your 401(k) (after you’ve maxed the match, obviously) or IRA.

So what’s not to love? Apparently not much. With two caveats: make sure you have at least enough cash on hand to pay each year’s out-of-pocket maximum and if you have latent health conditions like I do, consider switching to a lower-deductible plan when your healthcare needs are projected to grow.

 

 

The DIY Financial Checkup

August 08, 2016

When is the last time you had a financial checkup? Just like physical exams, regular financial exams lead to better overall financial health. While you can’t give yourself a thorough doctor’s exam, you can give yourself a comprehensive financial checkup with today’s abundance of useful online financial planning tools.

The first step in your diagnosis is to get all your important information organized in a central place. Some of this may be in paper form and some of it online. Gather these resources in advance so you have them on hand:

-your employee benefits such as retirement accounts, health/dental/vision insurance, disability insurance, HSA account, flexible spending accounts, commuter accounts, etc.

-the last month’s bank and brokerage account statements, including taxable accounts, IRAs and annuities

-a recent paycheck and your W4 (YTD cash flow statement if you are self-employed)

-estate planning documents, e.g., will, trust, power of attorney, healthcare directive

-additional insurance policies, e.g., homeowner’s, auto, umbrella liability, life, disability

-mortgage statement

-credit card statements, student loans, car loans, etc.

-financial plan, if you have one

-your budget, if you have one

What’s your financial position?

Pull together a summary of everything you own and everything you owe. (Download an easy net worth and budget worksheet here.) Subtract what you owe from what you own. That’s called your “net worth.”

Is your net worth positive or negative? Has it increased or decreased since the last time you calculated it and by what percentage? As my fellow planner Kelley Long says, “Your net worth is the ultimate measure of your ability to weather financial storms and maintain financial choices in life. The higher your net worth, the more financial freedom you can afford.”

Next, calculate your debt to income ratio by dividing your monthly gross pay by your total monthly recurring debt payments (mortgage, credit cards, student loans, car loans, etc.) The lower your debt to income ratio is, the better your financial position. FYI, mortgage lenders often look for a total debt to income ratio of no more than 36% of gross income.

Do you have sufficient cash reserves?

According to our 2016 Financial Stress Research, good cash management is the biggest differentiator between those workers who have no financial stress and those who have overwhelming financial stress. The foundation of cash management is a solid emergency fund to deal with inevitable unexpected events that happen to all of us. While the common guidance is to have at least three to six months in living expenses in savings or money market funds, it’s also important to make sure you have enough additional cash on hand to handle health, auto and property insurance deductibles as well as home and auto repairs. Bankrate.com has a helpful emergency savings calculator to figure out exactly how much you should keep in liquid savings. If your emergency fund could use some work, use this daily savings calculator to figure out how small savings, like $5 or $10 per day, can add up to a big cash cushion over time.

Could you survive a financial earthquake?

The purpose of insurance is to protect you and your family against catastrophic loss. The big idea behind insurance is that people pool their risks of catastrophic events. If you do suffer a loss and are adequately insured against it, you can be restored to your financial position before the loss. Do you have the insurance you need? Here are some guidelines for determining if you are sufficiently covered:

Health insurance – Everyone needs it, no excuses. If you don’t have health insurance, get it right away.

Disability income insurance – How would you pay the bills if you couldn’t work due to injury or illness? Many employers offer short and long term disability insurance. Make sure you take advantage of them during your next open enrollment period. This is particularly important if you are single or if you are the sole breadwinner in the family. To determine how much coverage you need and whether a supplemental policy is in order, use this calculator.

Life insurance – If someone else depends on your income for their living expenses, you need life insurance. There are different methods for determining how much insurance is ideal. For most people, the less expensive term insurance meets their needs. Use this calculator or download this worksheet to see if your coverage fits your situation. Subtract the coverage provided by your employer to determine what you need to purchase on your own.

Homeowner’s insurance – Per the Wall Street Journal, your homeowner’s insurance should provide enough to rebuild and furnish your home if it were wiped off the map. Does your policy reflect the current value of your home, any improvements you have made to it plus the cost to replace its contents? Basic homeowner’s policies do not cover you for things like floods and earthquakes. If those are common in your region, you may need to add specific coverage.

Renter’s insurance – Not a homeowner? When I was a young professional in Washington, D.C., my apartment was burglarized twice. Only then did I purchase renter’s insurance. Renter’s insurance covers the value of the stuff in your apartment that belongs to you like furniture, clothing and electronics. If the value of all those items exceeds the insurance deductible, consider renter’s insurance to cover your valuables.

Umbrella liability insurance – According to fellow planner Scott Spann, most people facing a judgment from civil litigation probably assume that their homeowner’s or auto policy would cover them. Low cost umbrella liability coverage provides an additional layer of protection in the case of a civil lawsuit. Consider policy coverage that is at least twice your net worth – more if you are a high earner.

Are you on track to replace 80% of your income in retirement?

Running a retirement calculator is like stepping on a scale. It is best done regularly in order to compare your results to your goal. Download our easy to use retirement estimator here.

While you may have run retirement estimates before, results can change depending on economic conditions. Review and update your assumptions about your savings rate, inflation and rate of return. For example, a recent report from McKinsey and Company suggests that investors may need to lower their sights, projecting that U.S. stock market returns over the next two decades could be between 4 and 6.5% annually.

If you’re not on track, what can you do to increase your retirement savings? Can you increase your contributions to a 401(k) or other employer-sponsored plan? Sign up for the contribution rate escalator. Contribute to a Roth or traditional IRA. According to our CEO, Liz Davidson, you can set yourself up for success by automating a process that would otherwise require a lot of effort and sacrifice.

How are you handling your taxes?

Did you get a big refund or owe a large sum on your most recent tax return? It may be time to adjust your withholding. This IRS withholding calculator can help you figure out the right number of allowances to claim.  Additionally, are you taking full advantage of tax-deferred retirement accounts, your health savings account, and flexible spending accounts? Make a list of what you need to change during your next open enrollment period.

Do your investments fit your situation?

Do you have a written plan to guide your investing decisions? If not, consider putting together an investment policy statement using this easy guide. Start by updating your risk tolerance by downloading this worksheet.

Has anything changed with your willingness or ability to take investment risk, your time horizon or your required rate of return? What about your inflation expectations or the kind of investments you are willing to make? Evaluate your current portfolio to see if it meets your updated goals and make changes if it doesn’t.

How much do your investments cost you in fees? Calculate your fees both as a flat dollar amount and as a percentage of your portfolio. Do you think you are getting your money’s worth?

Hint: if they are higher than 1%, consider changing brokerage firms or moving to lower fee alternatives such as index funds. Thinking about doing it yourself? Check out this blog post from fellow planner Erik Carter on how to save and invest on your own without getting eaten alive.

What happens to all this when you die?

Has anything changed since you first put together your estate plan? Take a look at all your retirement accounts and insurance policies and make sure your beneficiary designations reflect your current situation. Second, review your will and other estate planning documents such as a living trust, durable power of attorney, healthcare directive and guardianship provisions. Are the documents current and reflective of your wishes? What needs to be brought up-to-date?

Don’t have an estate plan? Follow these simple seven steps. Even if you do have a current estate plan, you may still need to develop a digital estate plan to express your wishes about what happens to your digital life.

Did you give yourself a financial checkup? How did it work out? Let me know by emailing me at [email protected]

A Debate on 401(k) Loans

August 04, 2016

Asking questions and challenging assumptions are important components of financial self-defense. That’s why I was glad to see one reader take the time to raise some interesting points contesting some of what I wrote a couple of weeks ago in a blog post called “The Hidden Downsides of a 401(k) Loan.” Since other readers may have similar concerns, I thought it would be useful to address them. Besides, I love a good, friendly debate! Here are the 401(k) loan downsides from the original post, the reader’s critiques, and my responses:

Downside #1: You lose out on any earnings:

Critique: “You are wrong because the 401(k) loan continues to be a plan asset – bearing a fixed rate of interest. Instead, you should have encouraged her to reallocate so as to maintain her asset allocation (equity position) – treating the 401(k) loan principal as the fixed income investment it is.”    

My Response: Yes, it’s true that the 401(k) loan continues to earn a fixed interest rate, but that’s interest you’re paying yourself. If you take money out of your savings account and then pay it back with “interest,” I wouldn’t call that earnings. Reallocating the remainder of your 401(k) balance is an interesting idea though that could help make up for the lower earnings.

Downside #2: Your payments may be higher.

Critique: “Are you seriously suggesting that a cash advance using a credit card (with interest rates of 15% – 30% or more) is a better liquidity solution because the minimum monthly payment might be less if you stretch repayment out over 20 – 30 years instead of 5 years?  That is so obviously bad financial advice I don’t know what to say.”     

My Response: I certainly wouldn’t say that a credit card cash advance is generally better than a 401(k) loan. I’m simply pointing out that using a 401(k) loan to pay off high-interest credit card debt could actually increase your cash flow problems because the payments on the 401(k) loan may be higher than the credit card debt.

Downside #3: You also can’t eliminate a 401(k) loan through bankruptcy.

Critique: “Are you are suggesting that when entering into a debt obligation, one consideration should be that if the combination of mortgage, car and 401(k) debt become unsustainable, you should anticipate being able to stiff the creditors? Remember that a plan loan is secured debt, secured with your vested assets. So, you can default on a 401(k) loan anytime you want (just stop repayment) – you don’t even have to declare bankruptcy.  However, I am not sure why you would want to stiff yourself.”

My Response: I’m suggesting that if you’re considering filing for bankruptcy protection, you may not want to use a 401(k) loan to pay off debt that would otherwise be discharged in the bankruptcy. (As for “stiffing creditors,” keep in mind that creditors assume the risk that you may employ this legal protection and charge higher interest rates accordingly.) It’s also hard to default on a 401(k) loan when the payments are withheld from your paycheck.

Downside #4: You may not be able to take another loan.

Critique: “Really. If the plan only provides for a single loan, your recommendation is to borrow all you can and put the amount you did not need at this time into a passbook savings account or a money market fund? That is almost as bad as your recommendation concerning credit card debt. However, I will agree with you that this is one likely result where, based on “expert” advice, plan sponsors amend their plans to limit access to a single loan.”  

My Response: If you’re going to take your only allowable loan and have no other emergency funds, you might want to borrow more than you need and put the remainder in savings. This can help you avoid accruing high interest debt or even worse, missing car or rent/mortgage payments in the event of an emergency. At least with a 401(k) loan, you’re paying yourself the interest.

Downside #5: You may be subject to taxes and penalties if you leave your job.

Critique: “The better response is for the plan sponsor to amend the plan to permit repayment post-separation. In the 21st Century we call this electronic bill payment. Your response confirms that service providers/recordkeepers have failed to keep pace with 21st Century electronic banking functionality.  The other response is to prepare for any potential change in employment by obtaining a line of credit.”

My Response: I agree that plan providers should offer electronic bill payment after leaving employment, but if your employer doesn’t, you need to be aware of the risk of getting hit with taxes and early withdrawal penalties on the outstanding balance. Also, lines of credit can be cancelled. This is even more likely if you lose your job or if the economy is weak, which are two times when you’ll probably need it.

Downside #6: You’re double-taxed on the interest.

Critique: “When you receive a payout of interest earned on investments, it is taxed just like interest on any other fixed income investment. In terms of tax preferences, if you secure the plan loan with a mortgage, the interest you pay on your plan loan may be tax deductible. And, importantly, if the plan loan is secured with Roth 401(k) assets, the interest you pay may be tax free at distribution – just like it would be for the interest received on any other fixed income investment where Roth 401(k) assets were the principal.  So, no, interest is not “double taxed”.”

My Response: I agree with the point about interest from Roth 401(k) accounts not being double-taxed. However, most 401(k) accounts are pre-tax and so the interest will be taxed on the interest when it’s eventually withdrawn. Since that interest was paid by you with money you already paid taxes on, I would call that “double taxed.” That’s one reason why the loan isn’t completely free (the other being the lost earnings from point #1).

Conclusion: The employee I was talking with decided to dip into her savings rather than borrow from her 401(k) due to the double taxation of her interest.

Critique: “Since she could take out multiple loans, there was an “emergency option” even if she borrowed this time. And, assuming the tax status of interest paid to the condo was the same as the tax status of interest paid on a plan loan, the calculation you should have performed was whether, after the loan was repaid, her total net worth (inside and outside the plan) would have been higher. In this case, because the condo rate was 3.75%, she might have been better off using that liquidity option – but nothing in your response suggests you proved which alternative was superior.”

My Response: I do think her choice was the most likely to maximize her net worth the interest she gave up on her savings was less than the the 3.75% the non-401(k) loan would cost her and what her 401(k) could be expected to earn (plus the taxes on her interest payments). That’s why she made the decision she did.

Final point: Finally, don’t forget that the real purpose of your 401(k) is retirement.

Critique: “Your suggestion is that people should avoid using plan assets for any purpose other than post-employment income replacement.  However, if you (self-) limit liquidity, people will only save what they believe they can afford to earmark for retirement.  Those who limit their saving by earmarking money for retirement are more likely to fall short of their savings goals. Importantly, reasonable liquidity access has been shown to increase (not reduce) retirement savings.”

My Response: I’m simply saying that you should understand both the pros and cons before taking a 401(k) loan. In some cases, the 401(k) loan may indeed make the most sense. However, I do think that the 401(k) is not the best vehicle if you’re saving for liquidity. After all, putting your emergency money in your 401(k) could leave you short in an emergency since you can generally only borrow up to half of your vested balance (up to $50k) and the loan will have to be paid back at a time when money might be tight. Saving first for emergencies in something more accessible like a savings account is not going to make or break your retirement.

None of this is to say that 401(k) loans are always a good or bad idea. It all depends on the situation. Just make sure you’re making an educated decision even if it means having a little debate with yourself (or a qualified financial professional).

 

 

Why Homes Actually Tend Not To Be Disappointing Investments

July 28, 2016

One thing I often hear people say (except right after the crash in the real estate market), is that their home was the best investment they ever made. However, a New York Times article titled Why Land and Homes Actually Tend to Be Disappointing Investments points out that real estate has increased by only .6% a year in real terms from 1929 to 2015 compared to a 3.2% average annualized increase in GDP over that same time period. The problem is that comparing just increases in price ignores a lot of the financial benefits of home ownership:

You don’t have to pay rent. If you don’t buy a home, you’ll probably have to pay rent and unlike a mortgage payment, rent tends to go up at least as much as inflation and never goes away. In fact, one of the biggest factors I’ve noticed in whether people are on track for retirement is whether they will have a paid off home by the time they retire. This “imputed rent” (or income from your home in the form of not having to pay rent) is one of the main sources of return. If you’d like to see whether buying or renting makes more financial sense for you, you can see how all the factors come out with this NY Times Rent v Buy calculator.

Real estate allows you to use leverage. Let’s suppose you purchase a $100k home and put down 20% or $20k. If the home appreciates with inflation by 2%, it’s now worth $102k. That doesn’t sound so great until you realize that the $2k increase in your net worth is actually 10% of the $20k you put down.

Being able to borrow from your home can help you in other ways too. Once you have equity, you can generally get a revolving line of credit or a home equity loan against it with relatively low interest rates and deduct the interest from your taxes. This can be useful in an emergency or to pay off higher interest credit card debt. (In that case, be sure you can make the payments because your home will be on the line if you can’t.) When you reach age 62, you can also take a reverse mortgage that allows you to supplement your retirement income by borrowing from your equity without having to make payments as long as you live in the home.

You’re less likely to over-react to market downturns. One of the biggest mistakes people make with stocks is to stop buying or to even sell when an investment goes south, only to miss the recovery. It’s not as easy to stop making your mortgage payments and if anything, people are less likely to sell when their home value is down.

Don’t forget the tax advantages. Not only can you deduct the interest and property taxes, you can also sell it and pay no taxes on up to $250k of gain (or $500k if you own it jointly) as long as it was your primary residence for 2 out of the last 5 years. You can also defer the taxes if you immediately reinvest the sale proceeds in a new real estate property, and if you pass it on to your heirs, they can sell it without paying capital gains taxes on all the gains during your lifetime.

You can rent it out. While you live in it, you can rent out an extra bedroom to a long term tenant or possibly for shorter stays on sites like AirBnB. If you move out, you can also rent out the entire home as an investment property (which also allows you to deduct depreciation and other expenses from your taxes).

There’s an emotional return. Not every benefit can be measured precisely in dollar terms. Homeowners also benefit from knowing that their home is truly their own. They can make renovations as they want and don’t have to be concerned with being kicked out by a landlord.

When looking at real estate as investment, don’t just focus on historical appreciation. Be sure to understand all the pros and cons. Then maybe one day you’ll be saying it was your best investment too.

Should You Buy Whole Life Insurance?

July 27, 2016

One of my favorite parts of being an unbiased financial planner is that I have the opportunity to answer questions for family and friends as well, with no concern as to whether there is a conflict of interest or a loss of earning opportunity. I love it when people ask me for help making their decisions. It’s what I do every day, and it’s why I’m in this business in the first place.

A friend recently asked for my thoughts on a whole life insurance policy that she was being pressured to buy after meeting with an agent to discuss disability and term life insurance. She was pretty sure that whole life was bad since that was the thing the agent was pushing the most, which is a definite red flag. If someone is trying to sell you something that you don’t understand, and they’re unwilling to take the time to educate you on why it’s the right thing for you, JUST SAY NO. However, in this case, the answer isn’t cut and dry. This is basically how I answered the question:

The big downside to whole life policies is that they tend to have high fees, especially in the first couple years, when the agent makes their big bucks off commissions. (This post explains a little more about the intricacies and the different types of life insurance.) Whole life insurance is most appropriate for higher income people who are wealthy enough that all their other tax-advantaged ways to save money are being fully utilized.This means that:

1. You and your spouse are both maxing out your workplace retirement savings plans. ($18,000 if you’re under age 50, $24,000 if you’re over. The limits can be higher for self-employed people who have a SEP-IRA).

2. If you have an HSA due to high-deductible health insurance, you’re putting the full $3,400 (for individuals) or $6,750 (for families) into those accounts.

3. You are maxing a Roth IRA (using the “back door” method, if necessary and applicable).

4. You have no debt besides a mortgage, car loan, and possibly student loans as long as the rate is 3% or less.

5. You have at least 6 months of expenses set aside in a savings account.

6. You feel like you have enough extra money every month to do the stuff you want to do within your lifestyle values like travel, caring for pets, entertainment, etc. and you can adequately fund things that might pop up like medical procedures, etc.

If all of those financial needs are either met or you’re on track to meet them, and a whole life policy premium wouldn’t derail them, then they can be a decent investment that can fulfill the “fixed income” part of your long-term investments. That’s how the agent I purchased my small policy from described it. I also decided to purchase my whole life policy because there was a strong chance I may not qualify for long-term care down the road due to blood clot issues (and ironically enough, I got a blood clot exactly one week after my policy was accepted for underwriting – timing was impeccable, and my policy had a cheap rider for that coverage). Here’s how we looked at it:

The annual premium for at least the first 5 years is equal to an amount that we would typically be saving in a bond fund or other less-risky investment anyway. The policy builds a guaranteed cash value and based on the projection of the cash value’s growth, we would break even (aka the cash value would equal and then exceed the total amount of premiums we’d paid in to date) after 13 years. The real question then was whether we would otherwise take that money and save it some other way.

Since the answer was yes, we went with making this a small part of our overall investment savings strategy. Once I’m 65, we no longer have to pay premiums and at that point, we could borrow against the policy and use the cash value as we needed. It’s actually a great way to invest tax-deferred, as long as it’s truly looked at as a long-term investment.

Could we take that money and invest it in a bond index fund for lower fees and expenses? Sure, but there’s no guarantee on the growth of that money, and should I meet an early death (heaven forbid!), my policy would pay its full face value starting from the day we made the first premium payment. It’s worth it to us.

Post was updated 3/9/17 for current savings limits.

Kelley Long is a resident financial planner with Financial Finesse, the leading provider of unbiased workplace financial wellness programs in the US. For more posts by Kelley or to sign up to have her weekly post delivered to your inbox each Wednesday, please visit the main blog page and sign up today.

 

 

The Hidden Downsides of a 401(k) Loan

July 21, 2016

I recently had a helpline call with a woman who was thinking about taking a loan from her 401(k) to pay a $32k condo assessment and avoid the 3.75% interest rate she would be charged if she made the payments over time. At first, the 401(k) loan looked like a great option. There’s no credit check, the fees and interest rate are minimal, and best of all, the interest would go back into her own account. However, there are also several hidden downsides of 401(k) loans to be aware of:

You lose out on any earnings. The stock market has averaged a 7-10% average annualized return over time. It’s easy to overlook this but it’s probably the biggest cost.

Your payments may be higher. Even if your interest rate is lower than the alternatives, your payments might actually be much higher than a credit card that will be paid off over 20-30 years. That’s because 401(k) loans generally have to be paid back within 5 years. The payments also generally come out of your paycheck so if you run into financial trouble, you don’t have the option to prioritize things like your mortgage and car payment. You also can’t eliminate a 401(k) loan through bankruptcy.

You may not be able to take another loan. This could be a problem if you don’t have an adequate emergency fund. In that case, you might want to borrow more than you need and put the extra money away someplace safe like a savings account or money market fund for a rainy day.

You may be subject to taxes and penalties if you leave your job. Any outstanding loan balance after about 60 days of leaving employment is typically considered a withdrawal. That means it’s subject to taxes and possibly a 10% penalty if you’re under age 59 ½.

You’re double-taxed on the interest. Even though the interest wasn’t paid pre-tax, it’s taxable when you eventually withdraw it. That means you’re essentially paying taxes twice on that money since you already paid taxes on it when you first earned it.

In this woman’s case, her employer’s policies provided a lot of advantages since she was able to take out up to 5 loans at a time and could continue making loan payments after leaving her job. However, we calculated that the taxes on the interest could easily add up to over $1,000 depending on the interest rate. As a result, she decided to use some of her emergency savings and reserve the 401(k) loan option for future emergencies.

If you’re considering a 401(k) loan, be aware of all the possible downsides. Make sure you also consider other options like peer-to-peer lending sites such as Lending Club and Prosper that allow you to borrow money from other people over the Internet, usually at lower rates than you can find at a bank. Finally, don’t forget that the real purpose of your 401(k) is retirement.

How to Survive and Thrive in a Pricey City

July 12, 2016

I was born and raised in Brooklyn, NY – before it was trendy. When I was growing up Red Hook, the underpass of the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges were places you did not want to go to at night. It seemed like overnight the worse and somewhat cheaper parts of town became the most sought after and expensive places to live.

These changes are what attracted my cousin to move to Brooklyn later this year. As I was talking to her, I realized that she was excited about the idea of living in New York, but the reality of the financial change from her move had not quite sunken in yet. I told my cousin about financial changes she had not fully factored into her move such as:

Paycheck Sticker Shock: My cousin was moving from Florida to Brooklyn. She knew that she was going to experience a major shock in expenses, but she had not factored in the change in her take home income due to taxes. Unlike Florida, New York City and some other major cities have state and city income taxes. She was shocked to see about a $600 a month estimated decrease in her paycheck once she moved there. For anyone moving to a new state, using calculators like the one from Smart Asset to gauge what your new income will be can help you better manage your finances.

Caviar Tastes on a Tuna Fish Budget: My cousin grew up watching The Cosby Show and fell in love with the brownstones featured on it. She knew the rent would be high but she almost passed out when I told her that a one bedroom apartment in Brooklyn Heights could easily run over $2,500. I told her to first do a budget to see how much she can afford. Her budget did not support $2,000 in rent so we researched apartments on  websites like Apartments.com,  which helped her set realistic expectations of where she could afford to live.

We brainstormed ideas like renting a room, living in a basement apartment, taking in roommates or living on the outer edges of Brooklyn. We also searched apartments that were in rent controlled/stabilized buildings to protect her from crazy rent increases. I encouraged her as well as anyone moving to a new city to research the cost of housing and realize that it may be a choice between a longer commute or more expensive rent.

Ditch the Car: My cousin grew up in a place that required her to have a vehicle. It never occurred to her that she may not need a car. She was shocked when I told her that my mother, a typical New Yorker, does not have a driver’s license, and I was 24 before I got mine.

I encouraged her to get to know the mass transit system in her area and estimate the cost of maintaining her vehicle in Brooklyn. Between the extra cost of car insurance, gas, parking and the hassle of alternate side of the street parking, she decided it was not worth it and ditched her car. The extra savings helped her to afford an apartment closer to where she worked. Call your insurance company to find out the cost of insurance in your new location, look up the average gas price, the average cost of parking and the hassle of finding parking to see if it is worth keeping your car.

Finally, I encouraged my cousin to do a comprehensive budget, not only factoring in the cost of living but also vacations, since she will either have to rent a car or fly home. She created a budget that helped her get her apartment and even have a little fun. Because of all the preparation she did, she was able to enjoy her new location without going broke in the process.