Should You Contribute To Pre-Tax Or Roth 401k?

May 01, 2023

For all the efforts that companies undertake to make participating in their retirement plan benefits easy, there’s no simple way to help employees decide whether the money they contribute from their own paychecks should be traditional (also called pre-tax) or Roth (also sometimes called after-tax Roth). The answer can be very nuanced depending on your situation, and for the most part, we won’t know whether we chose correctly until it’s too late. We’ll only really know if we got the answer right when it comes time to withdraw and we actually know our taxable income, current tax brackets, and lifestyle needs.

Since my crystal ball seems to be broken, I’ve attempted to distill the various factors in a way that makes more sense. Keep in mind that many of the factors listed in the chart below are just different ways of saying the same thing, but the intention is to present it in the way that makes the most sense to you.

The biggest factor affecting this decision: taxes

If we all could just know what tax rates will be when we retire and start withdrawing from our retirement savings, along with what our own income will be at that point, this would be a simple choice – if you knew your tax rate would be lower when withdrawing from your retirement account, you’d choose pre-tax and avoid paying taxes on the money today so that you could pay at a lower rate in the future.

On the flip side, if you knew that tax rates would be higher when you’re withdrawing and you’d be paying more in taxes, choose Roth to pay today’s lower rates, then enjoy your savings without tax consequences in the future.

Predicting the future of tax rates

I’m personally making Roth contributions right now in my 401(k) because I believe that we are currently experiencing the lowest tax rates I’ll see in my lifetime. And while I very well may have a lower income in retirement, the tax brackets themselves may be different, so even if I have a lower income, I think I might have a higher tax rate in the future. (keep in mind that I could be wrong about this – reason tells me that tax rates will have to go up in the future, but Congress has surprised us before!)

I like that I can change this strategy at any time. For example, when my husband sold some stock he’d been given as a child for a big capital gain, I switched to pre-tax for the rest of that year in an effort to lower our overall taxable income.

Income limits and the ability to withdraw without taxes

I also like the idea of having investments available to me in retirement that I can liquidate and withdraw without concern for the tax consequences, and my husband and I have too high of a combined income to contribute to Roth IRAs, so I like that the Roth 401(k) doesn’t have an income limit.

Now, there is a way around those income limits using a “back-door” Roth IRA, but that doesn’t work for me because I also have a rather large rollover traditional IRA.

Another consideration: access to the contributions for early retirement

You can’t withdraw Roth 401(k) contributions before 59 1/2 without penalty. However, you can withdraw contributions to a Roth IRA early. If you’re lucky enough to retire before then, you can always roll your Roth 401(k) into a Roth IRA. Then, tap those contributions if necessary, without concern for taxes or early withdrawal penalties. That’s another reason you want to at least have some retirement savings as Roth, regardless of tax rates.

Factors to consider:

Factor:	Traditional (pre-tax)	Roth (after-tax)
You think your taxes are higher today than they’ll be when you withdraw	Makes more sense	Makes less sense
You think your taxes are lower today than they’ll be when you withdraw	Makes less sense	Makes more sense
You want to avoid required distributions after age 72	Makes less sense	Makes more sense, as long as you roll to a Roth IRA
You think your income tax bracket will be lower when you withdraw	Makes more sense	Makes less sense
You think your income tax bracket will be higher when you withdraw	Makes less sense	Makes more sense
You need more tax deductions today	Makes more sense	Makes less sense
You have a long time until withdrawal and plan to invest aggressively	Makes less sense	Makes more sense
You’d like access to your contributions before the traditional retirement age	Doesn’t make sense	Makes sense

Splitting the difference

If you’re unsure or thinking about it makes your head hurt, you could always split your contributions between the two. In other words, if you’re putting 10% away, you could do 5% pre-tax and 5% Roth. The total $22,500 (plus $7,500 catch-up for over 50) applies as a total to both. However, there’s no rule that you have to put your money into just one bucket or the other at a time.

One more thing to know

No matter your contribution type, any matching dollars or employer contributions will always be pre-tax, per IRS rules. So even if you put all your own contributions into Roth, you’ll still have pre-tax money if you receive any from your job. Now, you may be able to convert those contributions to Roth, depending on plan rules. But if you do that, you’ll have to pay taxes on the amount converted, so plan carefully.

How To Save For Retirement Beyond The 401(k)

May 01, 2023

Preparing for retirement is an essential part of financial planning. Employer-sponsored retirement plans, such as 401(k) plans, are a common tool for saving. While contributing to a 401(k) can be a great way to save for retirement, it’s important to consider other options as well.

First things first

Are you fortunate enough to work for a company that offers to match employer-sponsored retirement plan contributions? If so, you should put the required minimum into the account to get that free money. Doing less is basically like turning down a raise!

Once you’re doing that, there are reasons that you may want to save additional funds outside the 401(k). Of course, if you don’t have a match or a 401(k) available, you may also need another way to save. Besides not having a 401(k) option, the most common reason to invest outside a 401(k) is investment selection. So, here are some other common options:

IRA

For the self-employed, there are actually many different tax-advantaged retirement accounts you can contribute to. If you work for a company that doesn’t offer a retirement plan, you can still contribute to an IRA. If this is the case, you can contribute up to $7,000 (or $8,000 if 50+) to an IRA. Additionally, you can deduct traditional IRA contributions no matter your income. However, income limitations exist on deducting contributions when you already have a 401(k) or 403(b) available.

A popular choice these days is the Roth IRA. This is partially because of the tax benefits. However, there is also more flexibility in accessing Roth IRA money early versus traditional or even Roth 401(k)s. For example, you can withdraw your Roth IRA contributions without taxes or penalties. Another benefit is your ability to withdraw up to $10k in growth for a first-time home purchase. You don’t have that option with a 401(k), at least not without tax consequences.

HSA

If you have access to a high-deductible health insurance plan, you can contribute to a health savings account (HSA). Contributions are limited to $4,150 per person or $8,300 per family (plus an extra $1,000 if age 55+). The contributions are tax-deductible, and the money can be used tax-free for qualified health care expenses. If you use the money for non-medical expenses, it’s subject to taxes plus a 20% penalty. However, the penalty goes away once you reach age 65, turning it into a tax-deferred retirement account that’s still tax-free for health care expenses (including most Medicare and qualified long-term care insurance premiums). You may also consider avoiding using the HSA even for medical expenses and investing it to grow for retirement.

US Government Savings Bonds

Each person can purchase up to $10k per year in Series EE US Government Savings Bonds. For Series I Savings Bonds, that limit is $10k (plus another $5k from tax refunds). The federal government guarantees these tax-deferred bonds, which don’t fluctuate in value. As such, they can be good conservative options for retirement savings. However, you can’t cash them in the first 12 months, and you lose the last 3 months of interest if you cash them in the first 5 years. Interest rates may remain low, but the I Bonds are based on inflation, which is slowly creeping up.

Regular account

If you’ve maxed out your other options, you can always invest for retirement in a regular taxable account. You can minimize taxes by investing according to your tax bracket. For example, invest in tax-free municipal bonds if you’re in a high tax bracket. Holding individual securities for at least a year will keep capital gains taxes low. You can also choose low-turnover funds like index funds and ETFs. Another strategy is to use losses to offset other taxes, including up to $3k per year from regular income taxes. The excess carries forward indefinitely. Just be aware that if you repurchase an identical investment within 30 days, you won’t be able to take the loss off your taxes.

Regardless of how you choose to save for retirement, the most important thing is that you save enough. Run a retirement calculator to see how much you need to save. Then, increase contributions through payroll or direct deposit. If you can’t save enough now, try gradually increasing your savings rate each year. Like it or not, your ability to retire depends on you.