Which Job Offer Should You Take?

August 16, 2016

A few weeks ago, I was having a wonderful conversation with a young woman trying to decide what to do with her life. She recently received multiple job offers in multiple states. I asked her how she was weighing her options. She looked at me as if to say, “Why would you even ask this question” and she replied that she would take the offer that paid the most. I told her that she should focus on the net, not gross amount.

Look at net vs gross paycheck. State taxes vary wildly in the U.S. Some states like Florida and Texas do not tax your income and states like New York and Maryland not only impose tax taxes, but some of their cities also impose taxes. This can take a big bite out of your income. Consider doing a paycheck calculator so you can see how little or how much of your paycheck you get to keep based on what state you live in.

Review the benefits from each company. Not only can taxes take a bite out of your paycheck, so can your benefits. If possible, find out how much the average healthcare premiums are and compare. Taking a job that pays $6,000 more with a $250 per paycheck healthcare premium will eat away the extra money. Ask about other benefits like 401(k) plan matching, contributions to medical savings plans and generous time off as well.

Review cost of living by states. In addition to taxes, consider the daily cost of living, such as housing costs, to see how far your dollars can go. After all, you still want a life. Estimators like CNN’s cost of living calculator can help you compare what income you need to maintain your life style by city.

Potential job growth.  How much room to grow do you have with each opportunity? What programs do they have to help you grow professionally? Will your future organization pay for additional education and certifications?

Don’t just look at the gross salary. Calculate the actual net to you. Taking a few moments to really evaluate job opportunities can go a long way to helping you make the best decision for your future.

 

 

Should You Buy or Rent?

August 11, 2016

This is a question I recently got on our financial helpline and one that I’m struggling with myself right now. The conventional wisdom is that renting is “throwing money away,” but owning a home also involves throwing away a lot more money than it may seem. One way to see this is by using a “Buy vs Rent” calculator like this one from the NY Times. Not only are you paying interest on the mortgage, there’s also maintenance costs, taxes, the opportunity cost of not being able to invest any extra money you put towards buying, and the transaction costs of buying and selling. Here are some things to consider before making one of the biggest financial decisions of your life:

How long do you plan to stay? For most people, this is probably the single biggest deciding factor. The longer you stay, the more buying usually makes sense because it takes time for the financial benefits to outweigh closing costs and real estate agent commissions, not to mention the risk that the home could actually be worth less when you try to sell it. It’s generally better to rent if you plan to stay less than 3-5 years.

What mortgage rate can you qualify for? To get the best mortgage terms, you typically have to have a credit score of at least 750 and put down 20%. If your credit isn’t so great or if you can’t make much of a down payment, you may want to delay buying until your credit or savings is in better condition.

Where would you invest any extra savings? If you can save more by renting and earn a good return on those savings, renting may be better. For example, if you’re not contributing enough to max your employer’s match, or have high-interest debt to pay down, or are just an aggressive investor, the return on your savings can be quite high.

What’s your tax bracket? The higher your tax bracket is, the more you can save by deducting mortgage interest and property taxes. Just be aware that you only benefit to the extent that these itemized deductions exceed your standard deduction.

How handy are you? As a homeowner, you won’t be able to call the landlord anymore when something needs to be fixed. If you can keep maintenance costs down by doing a lot of your own work or even by being a savvy shopper, buying might be more beneficial.

I’ve been renting, but I’m now considering buying a home. I should be able to qualify for a good mortgage rate and I’m in a moderately high tax bracket. On the other hand, I think I can also earn a decent return on my savings if I rent, and I’m not the most handy person.

The tie-breaker might be how long I would plan to live in my next home, which is a tough call that involves a lot of big life decisions. In the end, the decision to buy or rent often comes down to an emotional one. There’s nothing wrong with that as long as you’re aware and okay with the financial consequences as well.

 

Why Health Savings Accounts Are Such a Great Deal

August 10, 2016

Health savings accounts have been around for several years now, but we still find that there are plenty of people out there who don’t understand how they work or why they can be such a great deal. We are lucky enough to have access to them at Financial Finesse and my colleagues with great health and relatively little expenses simply love the plan. Here’s why: it’s a high-deductible plan connected to a health savings account (HSA), a plan type that is becoming more and more common as traditional insurance premiums continue increasing.

In our case, our company pays lower premiums because we have to spend $3,500 each year before the insurance even begins to cover us. That doesn’t sound like a great deal for us employees though, huh? That’s what a lot of people originally think too. But the other side is that our employer uses the savings to put $2,500 each year into a health savings account for each of us that we can then use to pay that $3,500 deductible. As a result, we would only have to pay an additional $1,000 to reach the deductible, and that’s only after our healthcare costs exceed $2,500.

The best part is that we pay no taxes on this money and unlike FSAs, we get to keep whatever we don’t spend in our account. That doesn’t mean you can take the money and splurge it on a nice vacation (at least not without paying taxes plus a 20% penalty on it). But it does mean you can invest that money in your HSA tax-deferred until age 65, when you can then spend it on retirement without penalty, use it tax-free for medical expenses (which Fidelity estimates will be about $245,000 over the remaining lifetime of a 65-yr old couple without retiree health insurance), or just let it continue to grow tax-deferred.

The interesting thing is that it changes your whole view on health spending. Normally, you probably just go to the doctor when you feel sick and don’t think much about costs since someone else (the insurance company directly and your employer indirectly through higher premiums) is paying. Think about how you’d spend if other areas of your life worked that way (as someone who loves to eat out, I wish my company provided us food insurance). Instead, when the dentist asks when the last time you had your x-rays done, you’re more likely make sure you know the answer before paying for x-rays you don’t need.

Annual wellness visits are free of charge by law. If you rarely get sick, you may not have to spend any money at all while still keeping up on your vital visits (and banking those employer contributions). You can also use your HSA for medical expenses as well as on your spouse and dependents even if they’re not covered on your health insurance plan.

Another thing I love about HSAs is that an individual at my company can also add another $850 to it each year since the limit is $3,350 per year for a single person. If you have the deposits deducted from your paycheck, you also don’t have to pay the 7.5% payroll tax on it. Not even 401(k) contributions let you do that. When you consider that HSAs offer you both pre-tax contributions AND the potential for tax-free withdrawals, there’s an argument for funding it even ahead of your 401(k) (after you’ve maxed the match, obviously) or IRA.

So what’s not to love? Apparently not much. With two caveats: make sure you have at least enough cash on hand to pay each year’s out-of-pocket maximum and if you have latent health conditions like I do, consider switching to a lower-deductible plan when your healthcare needs are projected to grow.

 

 

The DIY Financial Checkup

August 08, 2016

When is the last time you had a financial checkup? Just like physical exams, regular financial exams lead to better overall financial health. While you can’t give yourself a thorough doctor’s exam, you can give yourself a comprehensive financial checkup with today’s abundance of useful online financial planning tools.

The first step in your diagnosis is to get all your important information organized in a central place. Some of this may be in paper form and some of it online. Gather these resources in advance so you have them on hand:

-your employee benefits such as retirement accounts, health/dental/vision insurance, disability insurance, HSA account, flexible spending accounts, commuter accounts, etc.

-the last month’s bank and brokerage account statements, including taxable accounts, IRAs and annuities

-a recent paycheck and your W4 (YTD cash flow statement if you are self-employed)

-estate planning documents, e.g., will, trust, power of attorney, healthcare directive

-additional insurance policies, e.g., homeowner’s, auto, umbrella liability, life, disability

-mortgage statement

-credit card statements, student loans, car loans, etc.

-financial plan, if you have one

-your budget, if you have one

What’s your financial position?

Pull together a summary of everything you own and everything you owe. (Download an easy net worth and budget worksheet here.) Subtract what you owe from what you own. That’s called your “net worth.”

Is your net worth positive or negative? Has it increased or decreased since the last time you calculated it and by what percentage? As my fellow planner Kelley Long says, “Your net worth is the ultimate measure of your ability to weather financial storms and maintain financial choices in life. The higher your net worth, the more financial freedom you can afford.”

Next, calculate your debt to income ratio by dividing your monthly gross pay by your total monthly recurring debt payments (mortgage, credit cards, student loans, car loans, etc.) The lower your debt to income ratio is, the better your financial position. FYI, mortgage lenders often look for a total debt to income ratio of no more than 36% of gross income.

Do you have sufficient cash reserves?

According to our 2016 Financial Stress Research, good cash management is the biggest differentiator between those workers who have no financial stress and those who have overwhelming financial stress. The foundation of cash management is a solid emergency fund to deal with inevitable unexpected events that happen to all of us. While the common guidance is to have at least three to six months in living expenses in savings or money market funds, it’s also important to make sure you have enough additional cash on hand to handle health, auto and property insurance deductibles as well as home and auto repairs. Bankrate.com has a helpful emergency savings calculator to figure out exactly how much you should keep in liquid savings. If your emergency fund could use some work, use this daily savings calculator to figure out how small savings, like $5 or $10 per day, can add up to a big cash cushion over time.

Could you survive a financial earthquake?

The purpose of insurance is to protect you and your family against catastrophic loss. The big idea behind insurance is that people pool their risks of catastrophic events. If you do suffer a loss and are adequately insured against it, you can be restored to your financial position before the loss. Do you have the insurance you need? Here are some guidelines for determining if you are sufficiently covered:

Health insurance – Everyone needs it, no excuses. If you don’t have health insurance, get it right away.

Disability income insurance – How would you pay the bills if you couldn’t work due to injury or illness? Many employers offer short and long term disability insurance. Make sure you take advantage of them during your next open enrollment period. This is particularly important if you are single or if you are the sole breadwinner in the family. To determine how much coverage you need and whether a supplemental policy is in order, use this calculator.

Life insurance – If someone else depends on your income for their living expenses, you need life insurance. There are different methods for determining how much insurance is ideal. For most people, the less expensive term insurance meets their needs. Use this calculator or download this worksheet to see if your coverage fits your situation. Subtract the coverage provided by your employer to determine what you need to purchase on your own.

Homeowner’s insurance – Per the Wall Street Journal, your homeowner’s insurance should provide enough to rebuild and furnish your home if it were wiped off the map. Does your policy reflect the current value of your home, any improvements you have made to it plus the cost to replace its contents? Basic homeowner’s policies do not cover you for things like floods and earthquakes. If those are common in your region, you may need to add specific coverage.

Renter’s insurance – Not a homeowner? When I was a young professional in Washington, D.C., my apartment was burglarized twice. Only then did I purchase renter’s insurance. Renter’s insurance covers the value of the stuff in your apartment that belongs to you like furniture, clothing and electronics. If the value of all those items exceeds the insurance deductible, consider renter’s insurance to cover your valuables.

Umbrella liability insurance – According to fellow planner Scott Spann, most people facing a judgment from civil litigation probably assume that their homeowner’s or auto policy would cover them. Low cost umbrella liability coverage provides an additional layer of protection in the case of a civil lawsuit. Consider policy coverage that is at least twice your net worth – more if you are a high earner.

Are you on track to replace 80% of your income in retirement?

Running a retirement calculator is like stepping on a scale. It is best done regularly in order to compare your results to your goal. Download our easy to use retirement estimator here.

While you may have run retirement estimates before, results can change depending on economic conditions. Review and update your assumptions about your savings rate, inflation and rate of return. For example, a recent report from McKinsey and Company suggests that investors may need to lower their sights, projecting that U.S. stock market returns over the next two decades could be between 4 and 6.5% annually.

If you’re not on track, what can you do to increase your retirement savings? Can you increase your contributions to a 401(k) or other employer-sponsored plan? Sign up for the contribution rate escalator. Contribute to a Roth or traditional IRA. According to our CEO, Liz Davidson, you can set yourself up for success by automating a process that would otherwise require a lot of effort and sacrifice.

How are you handling your taxes?

Did you get a big refund or owe a large sum on your most recent tax return? It may be time to adjust your withholding. This IRS withholding calculator can help you figure out the right number of allowances to claim.  Additionally, are you taking full advantage of tax-deferred retirement accounts, your health savings account, and flexible spending accounts? Make a list of what you need to change during your next open enrollment period.

Do your investments fit your situation?

Do you have a written plan to guide your investing decisions? If not, consider putting together an investment policy statement using this easy guide. Start by updating your risk tolerance by downloading this worksheet.

Has anything changed with your willingness or ability to take investment risk, your time horizon or your required rate of return? What about your inflation expectations or the kind of investments you are willing to make? Evaluate your current portfolio to see if it meets your updated goals and make changes if it doesn’t.

How much do your investments cost you in fees? Calculate your fees both as a flat dollar amount and as a percentage of your portfolio. Do you think you are getting your money’s worth?

Hint: if they are higher than 1%, consider changing brokerage firms or moving to lower fee alternatives such as index funds. Thinking about doing it yourself? Check out this blog post from fellow planner Erik Carter on how to save and invest on your own without getting eaten alive.

What happens to all this when you die?

Has anything changed since you first put together your estate plan? Take a look at all your retirement accounts and insurance policies and make sure your beneficiary designations reflect your current situation. Second, review your will and other estate planning documents such as a living trust, durable power of attorney, healthcare directive and guardianship provisions. Are the documents current and reflective of your wishes? What needs to be brought up-to-date?

Don’t have an estate plan? Follow these simple seven steps. Even if you do have a current estate plan, you may still need to develop a digital estate plan to express your wishes about what happens to your digital life.

Did you give yourself a financial checkup? How did it work out? Let me know by emailing me at [email protected]

A Debate on 401(k) Loans

August 04, 2016

Asking questions and challenging assumptions are important components of financial self-defense. That’s why I was glad to see one reader take the time to raise some interesting points contesting some of what I wrote a couple of weeks ago in a blog post called “The Hidden Downsides of a 401(k) Loan.” Since other readers may have similar concerns, I thought it would be useful to address them. Besides, I love a good, friendly debate! Here are the 401(k) loan downsides from the original post, the reader’s critiques, and my responses:

Downside #1: You lose out on any earnings:

Critique: “You are wrong because the 401(k) loan continues to be a plan asset – bearing a fixed rate of interest. Instead, you should have encouraged her to reallocate so as to maintain her asset allocation (equity position) – treating the 401(k) loan principal as the fixed income investment it is.”    

My Response: Yes, it’s true that the 401(k) loan continues to earn a fixed interest rate, but that’s interest you’re paying yourself. If you take money out of your savings account and then pay it back with “interest,” I wouldn’t call that earnings. Reallocating the remainder of your 401(k) balance is an interesting idea though that could help make up for the lower earnings.

Downside #2: Your payments may be higher.

Critique: “Are you seriously suggesting that a cash advance using a credit card (with interest rates of 15% – 30% or more) is a better liquidity solution because the minimum monthly payment might be less if you stretch repayment out over 20 – 30 years instead of 5 years?  That is so obviously bad financial advice I don’t know what to say.”     

My Response: I certainly wouldn’t say that a credit card cash advance is generally better than a 401(k) loan. I’m simply pointing out that using a 401(k) loan to pay off high-interest credit card debt could actually increase your cash flow problems because the payments on the 401(k) loan may be higher than the credit card debt.

Downside #3: You also can’t eliminate a 401(k) loan through bankruptcy.

Critique: “Are you are suggesting that when entering into a debt obligation, one consideration should be that if the combination of mortgage, car and 401(k) debt become unsustainable, you should anticipate being able to stiff the creditors? Remember that a plan loan is secured debt, secured with your vested assets. So, you can default on a 401(k) loan anytime you want (just stop repayment) – you don’t even have to declare bankruptcy.  However, I am not sure why you would want to stiff yourself.”

My Response: I’m suggesting that if you’re considering filing for bankruptcy protection, you may not want to use a 401(k) loan to pay off debt that would otherwise be discharged in the bankruptcy. (As for “stiffing creditors,” keep in mind that creditors assume the risk that you may employ this legal protection and charge higher interest rates accordingly.) It’s also hard to default on a 401(k) loan when the payments are withheld from your paycheck.

Downside #4: You may not be able to take another loan.

Critique: “Really. If the plan only provides for a single loan, your recommendation is to borrow all you can and put the amount you did not need at this time into a passbook savings account or a money market fund? That is almost as bad as your recommendation concerning credit card debt. However, I will agree with you that this is one likely result where, based on “expert” advice, plan sponsors amend their plans to limit access to a single loan.”  

My Response: If you’re going to take your only allowable loan and have no other emergency funds, you might want to borrow more than you need and put the remainder in savings. This can help you avoid accruing high interest debt or even worse, missing car or rent/mortgage payments in the event of an emergency. At least with a 401(k) loan, you’re paying yourself the interest.

Downside #5: You may be subject to taxes and penalties if you leave your job.

Critique: “The better response is for the plan sponsor to amend the plan to permit repayment post-separation. In the 21st Century we call this electronic bill payment. Your response confirms that service providers/recordkeepers have failed to keep pace with 21st Century electronic banking functionality.  The other response is to prepare for any potential change in employment by obtaining a line of credit.”

My Response: I agree that plan providers should offer electronic bill payment after leaving employment, but if your employer doesn’t, you need to be aware of the risk of getting hit with taxes and early withdrawal penalties on the outstanding balance. Also, lines of credit can be cancelled. This is even more likely if you lose your job or if the economy is weak, which are two times when you’ll probably need it.

Downside #6: You’re double-taxed on the interest.

Critique: “When you receive a payout of interest earned on investments, it is taxed just like interest on any other fixed income investment. In terms of tax preferences, if you secure the plan loan with a mortgage, the interest you pay on your plan loan may be tax deductible. And, importantly, if the plan loan is secured with Roth 401(k) assets, the interest you pay may be tax free at distribution – just like it would be for the interest received on any other fixed income investment where Roth 401(k) assets were the principal.  So, no, interest is not “double taxed”.”

My Response: I agree with the point about interest from Roth 401(k) accounts not being double-taxed. However, most 401(k) accounts are pre-tax and so the interest will be taxed on the interest when it’s eventually withdrawn. Since that interest was paid by you with money you already paid taxes on, I would call that “double taxed.” That’s one reason why the loan isn’t completely free (the other being the lost earnings from point #1).

Conclusion: The employee I was talking with decided to dip into her savings rather than borrow from her 401(k) due to the double taxation of her interest.

Critique: “Since she could take out multiple loans, there was an “emergency option” even if she borrowed this time. And, assuming the tax status of interest paid to the condo was the same as the tax status of interest paid on a plan loan, the calculation you should have performed was whether, after the loan was repaid, her total net worth (inside and outside the plan) would have been higher. In this case, because the condo rate was 3.75%, she might have been better off using that liquidity option – but nothing in your response suggests you proved which alternative was superior.”

My Response: I do think her choice was the most likely to maximize her net worth the interest she gave up on her savings was less than the the 3.75% the non-401(k) loan would cost her and what her 401(k) could be expected to earn (plus the taxes on her interest payments). That’s why she made the decision she did.

Final point: Finally, don’t forget that the real purpose of your 401(k) is retirement.

Critique: “Your suggestion is that people should avoid using plan assets for any purpose other than post-employment income replacement.  However, if you (self-) limit liquidity, people will only save what they believe they can afford to earmark for retirement.  Those who limit their saving by earmarking money for retirement are more likely to fall short of their savings goals. Importantly, reasonable liquidity access has been shown to increase (not reduce) retirement savings.”

My Response: I’m simply saying that you should understand both the pros and cons before taking a 401(k) loan. In some cases, the 401(k) loan may indeed make the most sense. However, I do think that the 401(k) is not the best vehicle if you’re saving for liquidity. After all, putting your emergency money in your 401(k) could leave you short in an emergency since you can generally only borrow up to half of your vested balance (up to $50k) and the loan will have to be paid back at a time when money might be tight. Saving first for emergencies in something more accessible like a savings account is not going to make or break your retirement.

None of this is to say that 401(k) loans are always a good or bad idea. It all depends on the situation. Just make sure you’re making an educated decision even if it means having a little debate with yourself (or a qualified financial professional).

 

 

Why Homes Actually Tend Not To Be Disappointing Investments

July 28, 2016

One thing I often hear people say (except right after the crash in the real estate market), is that their home was the best investment they ever made. However, a New York Times article titled Why Land and Homes Actually Tend to Be Disappointing Investments points out that real estate has increased by only .6% a year in real terms from 1929 to 2015 compared to a 3.2% average annualized increase in GDP over that same time period. The problem is that comparing just increases in price ignores a lot of the financial benefits of home ownership:

You don’t have to pay rent. If you don’t buy a home, you’ll probably have to pay rent and unlike a mortgage payment, rent tends to go up at least as much as inflation and never goes away. In fact, one of the biggest factors I’ve noticed in whether people are on track for retirement is whether they will have a paid off home by the time they retire. This “imputed rent” (or income from your home in the form of not having to pay rent) is one of the main sources of return. If you’d like to see whether buying or renting makes more financial sense for you, you can see how all the factors come out with this NY Times Rent v Buy calculator.

Real estate allows you to use leverage. Let’s suppose you purchase a $100k home and put down 20% or $20k. If the home appreciates with inflation by 2%, it’s now worth $102k. That doesn’t sound so great until you realize that the $2k increase in your net worth is actually 10% of the $20k you put down.

Being able to borrow from your home can help you in other ways too. Once you have equity, you can generally get a revolving line of credit or a home equity loan against it with relatively low interest rates and deduct the interest from your taxes. This can be useful in an emergency or to pay off higher interest credit card debt. (In that case, be sure you can make the payments because your home will be on the line if you can’t.) When you reach age 62, you can also take a reverse mortgage that allows you to supplement your retirement income by borrowing from your equity without having to make payments as long as you live in the home.

You’re less likely to over-react to market downturns. One of the biggest mistakes people make with stocks is to stop buying or to even sell when an investment goes south, only to miss the recovery. It’s not as easy to stop making your mortgage payments and if anything, people are less likely to sell when their home value is down.

Don’t forget the tax advantages. Not only can you deduct the interest and property taxes, you can also sell it and pay no taxes on up to $250k of gain (or $500k if you own it jointly) as long as it was your primary residence for 2 out of the last 5 years. You can also defer the taxes if you immediately reinvest the sale proceeds in a new real estate property, and if you pass it on to your heirs, they can sell it without paying capital gains taxes on all the gains during your lifetime.

You can rent it out. While you live in it, you can rent out an extra bedroom to a long term tenant or possibly for shorter stays on sites like AirBnB. If you move out, you can also rent out the entire home as an investment property (which also allows you to deduct depreciation and other expenses from your taxes).

There’s an emotional return. Not every benefit can be measured precisely in dollar terms. Homeowners also benefit from knowing that their home is truly their own. They can make renovations as they want and don’t have to be concerned with being kicked out by a landlord.

When looking at real estate as investment, don’t just focus on historical appreciation. Be sure to understand all the pros and cons. Then maybe one day you’ll be saying it was your best investment too.

How to Survive and Thrive in a Pricey City

July 12, 2016

I was born and raised in Brooklyn, NY – before it was trendy. When I was growing up Red Hook, the underpass of the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges were places you did not want to go to at night. It seemed like overnight the worse and somewhat cheaper parts of town became the most sought after and expensive places to live.

These changes are what attracted my cousin to move to Brooklyn later this year. As I was talking to her, I realized that she was excited about the idea of living in New York, but the reality of the financial change from her move had not quite sunken in yet. I told my cousin about financial changes she had not fully factored into her move such as:

Paycheck Sticker Shock: My cousin was moving from Florida to Brooklyn. She knew that she was going to experience a major shock in expenses, but she had not factored in the change in her take home income due to taxes. Unlike Florida, New York City and some other major cities have state and city income taxes. She was shocked to see about a $600 a month estimated decrease in her paycheck once she moved there. For anyone moving to a new state, using calculators like the one from Smart Asset to gauge what your new income will be can help you better manage your finances.

Caviar Tastes on a Tuna Fish Budget: My cousin grew up watching The Cosby Show and fell in love with the brownstones featured on it. She knew the rent would be high but she almost passed out when I told her that a one bedroom apartment in Brooklyn Heights could easily run over $2,500. I told her to first do a budget to see how much she can afford. Her budget did not support $2,000 in rent so we researched apartments on  websites like Apartments.com,  which helped her set realistic expectations of where she could afford to live.

We brainstormed ideas like renting a room, living in a basement apartment, taking in roommates or living on the outer edges of Brooklyn. We also searched apartments that were in rent controlled/stabilized buildings to protect her from crazy rent increases. I encouraged her as well as anyone moving to a new city to research the cost of housing and realize that it may be a choice between a longer commute or more expensive rent.

Ditch the Car: My cousin grew up in a place that required her to have a vehicle. It never occurred to her that she may not need a car. She was shocked when I told her that my mother, a typical New Yorker, does not have a driver’s license, and I was 24 before I got mine.

I encouraged her to get to know the mass transit system in her area and estimate the cost of maintaining her vehicle in Brooklyn. Between the extra cost of car insurance, gas, parking and the hassle of alternate side of the street parking, she decided it was not worth it and ditched her car. The extra savings helped her to afford an apartment closer to where she worked. Call your insurance company to find out the cost of insurance in your new location, look up the average gas price, the average cost of parking and the hassle of finding parking to see if it is worth keeping your car.

Finally, I encouraged my cousin to do a comprehensive budget, not only factoring in the cost of living but also vacations, since she will either have to rent a car or fly home. She created a budget that helped her get her apartment and even have a little fun. Because of all the preparation she did, she was able to enjoy her new location without going broke in the process.

Don’t Believe Everything You Hear

July 01, 2016

I’m the kind of person who will always try to listen with an open mind to different points of view and find something to learn from the speaker. I hear a lot of theories that way, some which appear to be myths, superstitions or misinterpretations, and some of which offer a refreshing change in perspective. In many cases, what’s true for most people might not be true for everyone. When sifting through financial advice, make sure to ask yourself if that guidance makes sense for your situation. Here are three common examples of financial guidance where you might want to think about things differently:

Question: I’ve been told that I should always have a mortgage so that I can get the mortgage interest deduction. Is that always true?

My view on it: MYTH

For each $1 in interest they pay the mortgage company, the typical family gets ~$.20 in tax relief (using the tax rate as the real payback number). To me, you lose $.80 on the dollar by paying interest. Plus if you have no mortgage, your embedded cost of living is permanently lower, so your accumulated savings and investment dollars can last a whole lot longer. Financial advisors typically say disciplined, long term investors could do better in the stock market rather than using savings to pay off a mortgage, but I’ve observed that most people prefer to have the peace of mind that comes with low or no debt so I’m not a huge fan of carrying a mortgage just to get a tax deduction.

Question: I should never contribute more to my 401(k) than my company’s matching contribution. Once I reach that, I’m told I should open a Roth IRA. Is that the right choice?

My view on it:  MYTH

Most people I see who try to implement this, forget one critical part – funding the Roth IRA. The problem with this guidance is that many people never get around to funding the Roth IRA every time they get paid. Once their paycheck hits their checking account, it gets accounted for in so many other ways.  I’d prefer to see people shoot for the maximum 401(k) contribution ($18,000 this year, plus $6,000 in catch-up contributions for those over 50) and once they max out the 401(k), THEN contribute to an IRA.

Also, maxing out the 401(k) doesn’t have to be an instant thing. You can increase your contribution level by 1-2%/year until you get there. If you have a rate escalator in your plan, sign up for it today!

Question: If I close out some of my credit cards, that should improve my credit score, right?

My view on it:  MYTH

Well, it’s not that simple! There are a lot of factors that go into your credit score. A few great places to see the multiple factors are CreditSesame.com and CreditKarma.com.

If the credit cards you want to close are relatively new, closing them may help you because it could increase your average “age of credit” (how long your open accounts have been open). But it may decrease your score because it reduces your overall credit limits and if you carry balances, it makes your “utilization ratio” higher. That’s the amount of overall credit balances divided by overall credit limit. Keeping that ratio below 25%, ideally at 0%, will be additive for your credit score. If closing accounts increases your utilization percentage, then closing the accounts can harm your score.

The thing to take away from this is that credit scores are fluid things. They change constantly. But if you take the time to review your scores and factors on the sites above, you will be able to make well informed decisions that impact your credit score.

As you go about living your life, learn how to discern the differences between good, solid personal financial management and misapplied financial principles. How? Ask a financial planning professional, pose a question on our Facebook page or ask me a question in the comments section below. Having the facts on your side can help save you from the many conflicting theories of managing your personal financial life.

 

Can a Computer Replace Your Financial Advisor?

June 30, 2016

If driverless cars can replace your Uber driver, should a computer replace your financial advisor too? This isn’t just speculation. Automated investing services called “robo-advisors” are becoming more popular and even your 401(k) plan may offer an online investment advice program. Let’s start by taking a look at some areas that computers do well when it comes to personal finances:

Expense tracking. Many people use computer programs like Mint and Yodlee MoneyCenter to track their expenses. This can be very helpful if you don’t have the time or inclination to do it yourself.

Insurance needs. Since there can be a lot of variables, a computer program can be very helpful calculating how much insurance you need, especially with life insurance.

Debt payoff. Computers programs can also calculate how long it would take to pay off your debt and the effect of making additional payments.

Credit analysis and monitoring. Online programs like CreditKarma, Credit Sesame, and Quizzle can provide you with a free credit score, advice on improving it, and free credit monitoring.

Retirement and education funding projections. As long as the inputs and assumptions used in the calculation are reasonable, a computer program can do an excellent job here too. In fact, any human financial planner will probably NEED a computer program to calculate whether you’re saving enough for retirement or education expenses. Of course, there are a lot of unknowns but a good program can help you determine if you’re in the ballpark and allow you to measure your progress over time.

Asset allocation. Deciding how to optimize your investment mix is another task that financial planners typically use a computer for. It’s also the quintessential service provided by robo-advisors. The ability to customize your investments around not only your time frame but also your personal risk tolerance and possibly even to minimize your taxes and complement your other investments is one of the advantages of a robo-advisor over a more simple asset allocation fund.

Investment management. A robo-advisor can also add value to a portfolio by automatically rebalancing it periodically. Some robo-advisors even sell losing investments in a taxable account so you can use the losses to offset other taxes.

Simple tax preparation. Programs like TurboTax, TaxAct, and TaxCut are widely used for tax preparation. However, I would suggest using a professional tax preparer if you have a rental property or a business since there’s some judgment involved in knowing which category to classify various incomes and expenses.

Basic estate planning. If you just need basic estate planning documents like a simple will, a durable power of attorney, and an advance health care directive, you can use a computer to draft these documents and even store them online at little or no cost. If you have a more complex family or estate situation, you may want to hire an attorney to draft a trust though.

Account aggregation. Finally, if your financial life involves a lot of the above, you might want to use an account aggregation program to compile all the info in one place.

So what are computers NOT good at?

Getting you to use them in the first place. For example, our research shows that 76% of employees who are not on track for retirement haven’t even run a retirement calculator at all. The fanciest workout equipment won’t do you any good if you don’t actually use them. A financial planner can be like the personal trainer that gets you to go to the gym.

Motivating you to take action after the calculation. Many people run a retirement calculator but then never actually increase their savings enough to get on track. Some programs use a gamification model that can turn action steps into a game, but they aren’t always effective. A good financial planner can both get you to the gym and make sure you actually do the workouts.

Stopping you from sabotaging yourself. How many of us are tempted to overspend on something we don’t need, to make a risky bet with money we can’t afford to lose, or to bail out of our investments during a temporary downturn in the market? Just like a personal trainer can keep us from breaking our diet or over-training to the point of injury, stopping you from making costly mistakes is one of the most important functions of a financial planner. Even the most sophisticated investors can benefit from at least having a second opinion to bounce ideas off of.

This doesn’t necessarily mean that everyone needs a financial planner. You do need to be honest with yourself though. How disciplined and motivated are you when it comes to your personal finances? If you just need the right information to make decisions, a computer can certainly provide that. If you need more, you might need an actual human being.

 

 

Detox Your Finances

April 26, 2016

Every spring, I get the itch to clean. It drives my family crazy but I cannot stand clutter. If I see an item either not being used or not organized for a future purpose, I am probably throwing it away. The great part about my habit is that my family is scared to leave anything out so I rarely have to pick up behind anyone. My reasoning is that everything is either working towards a goal or working against a goal – in this case, clutter.

Finances can be looked at the same way. Either what you are doing is working towards your goals or working against your goals. This is a great time to detox your finances of anything that may be toxic to you reaching your financial goals. If you are not sure where to start, consider this as a starting point:

Did you get a big tax refund or owe Uncle Sam a check? The goal should be to break even – not give the IRS an interest–free loan or owe money. Use the IRS withholdings calculator for guidance on how much withholding to claim on your W4. This is extra money that could be used for financial goals like savings, getting out of debt or college.

Do you feel like your money goes into a black hole the second you get it? Consider detoxing your budget of expenses that are wrecking havoc with your finances. These are what I consider to be the most toxic:

Eating Out: This is like a vortex that sucks money from you. Consider bringing your lunch to work 2x a week. If you go out with friends, eat before and have a large appetizer or salad or soup

Cable: There are so many options today that make it easy to cut the cable cord. Consider streaming devices like Google Chromecast, Apple TV, Amazon Fire TV or Roku to stream TV and movies through services like Netflix, Hulu, and Sling TV so you won’t go into television deprivation.

Mobile Phone: Contact your cell phone provider about discounts on your cell phone package.  Another consideration is to use tier 2 carriers such as Cricket, Metro PCS, Boost or Straight Talk that generally work with the same cell phone towers as the bigger carriers like AT&T, Sprint, T Mobile and Verizon but at a fraction of the cost.

Are you looking to make a major purchase like a house or car? Get an annual free credit report from all three reporting agencies from websites like annualcreditreport.com. Once you get your credit reports, review them for toxic information using websites like Nolo.com. If you find errors, you can dispute them online. As you review, pay close attention to the following:

  • Review your personal information to make sure all of your information is correct – your name, Social Security number, marital status, etc.
  • Review the your account history to make sure that it is accurate.

Don’t just do spring cleaning. Take the time to detox your finances as well. It can help rejuvenate your New Year’s resolutions and help ensure that all of your finances are working towards your goals.

 

3 Reasons To Make After-Tax Contributions To Your Retirement Plan

April 25, 2016

Updated for current tax figures

Are you lucky enough to have the option to save after-tax money in your employer’s retirement plan? Most employees probably haven’t given it a thought, and not many utilize the option to save more than the current $18,500 pre-tax annual employee contribution limit (plus another $6,000 if you are 50 and older).

In fact, many people are not even aware that they may be able to save additional money in their employer-sponsored retirement plan, in some cases up to the annual total defined contribution limit (from both employee and employer) of $55,000 (plus $6,000 catch up if 50 and older) or 100% of your compensation, whichever is less. Sure, the likelihood of saving that much for many people might be small.

However, if you are already contributing the maximum in pre-tax and Roth contributions, here are some reasons to save more after-tax:

Automatic savings

Saving for an early retirement or financial independence? Let’s face it. It’s unlikely you’d save that much or invest on such a consistent schedule if you had to write a check every two weeks to a mutual fund company.

That’s one reason your employer can be your best financial services provider. Saving after-tax money in your retirement plan can be as easy as clicking a button or signing a form to choose what percentage of your salary you want to save. Every paycheck, you’ll defer money into after-tax savings and invest them in plan funds, just like your regular contributions. Little by little, you’ll save and grow that extra money without having to think about it.

Ability to withdraw contributions

You should generally be able to withdraw after-tax voluntary contributions, subject to the plan guidelines on withdrawals, even before you’re 59 1/2 and without meeting a specific need like you often do for a hardship withdrawal. That means if you have an emergency, you will be able to access those funds.

However, you may not be able to withdraw associated earnings growth, and if you are, those earnings – but not your original contributions – would be subject to taxes and a 10% penalty if withdrawn prior to age 59 1/2.

Tax-free rollover to a Roth IRA

You’ll reap the biggest rewards from your after-tax contributions when you leave your company or retire. Assuming you’ve been saving for a while, your after-tax balance will contain two components: your original after tax contributions and the tax-deferred earnings growth on those contributions. The IRS allows you to separate those two components out during the rollover process, so you can do a direct rollover into multiple destinations: rolling the tax-deferred earnings growth into a traditional IRA and rolling your after-tax contributions into a Roth IRA.

That’s right. You read that correctly. Your after-tax voluntary contributions can be rolled into a Roth IRA, where any future earnings growth will then be tax-free (assuming you leave the money in the Roth for at least five years and until after age 59 ½ ). You may even be able to convert your after-tax contributions immediately to Roth and have all future growth tax-free (but then you give up the ability to withdraw it early).

Here’s an example: Jane is already contributing the maximum $18,500/year to her pre-tax 401(k) plan at XYZ Company. She wants to save extra for retirement, so she saves an additional $10,000 annually in after-tax voluntary contributions in the plan.

After 10 years, Jane has about $144,000 from her after-tax contributions ($100,000 in contributions and $44,000 in growth). She also has about $260,000 in pre-tax savings and growth from contributing the maximum. When she leaves XYZ to take a new job, she can roll her plan balances into multiple destinations: $100,000 into a Roth IRA and $304,000 into a traditional IRA or her new employer’s 401(k) plan.

Fast forward another 15 years to when Jane retires. Without adding any more money to her Roth IRA and receiving a 7% return, her account is now worth about $285,000. That’s an additional $185,000 of tax-free growth, all because she originally saved after-tax money in her 401(k) plan.

 

 

Don’t Make These 3 Common Tax Mistakes

April 19, 2016

As we wrap up tax season, I find people have more questions than answers. Some are pleasantly surprised and others are shocked and even angry about owing taxes. As I was sitting with family over dinner, their grumblings about taxes kept cropping up in the conversation.  As they continued to talk, I realized that many of their  problems came from the following mistakes about taxes:

Mistake #1: Getting a big tax refund. Giving an interest-free loan when you need the money is almost never a good idea. Consider using the IRS Withholding Calculator to estimate how much withholding to use to break even on your taxes. This may free up the funds for other financial goals like savings, getting out of debt and college.

Mistake #2: Not taking advantage of itemized deductions. An article from Nolo.com  cites a report by the Government Accountability Office stating that as many as 2.2 million taxpayers overpay taxes by an average of $610 per year due to a failure to itemize deductions. Consider itemizing deductions if you:

  • Paid interest and taxes on your home
  • Made a large charitable contribution
  • Had a lot of uninsured medical and dental expenses
  • Had large unreimbursed job-related expenses

Mistake #3: Not looking to your employer benefits for tax savings.  I recently spoke to a friend who was concerned about owing taxes and was looking for ways to lower her taxable income. I told her to start looking at her workplace benefits. Pre-tax 401(k) plan contributions lower your taxable income as well as contributions to pre-tax medical savings plans like Flexible Spending Accounts or Health Savings Accounts. Since she has children under 13 years old, I mentioned the Dependent Care Flexible Spending Account so she can contribute money pre-tax for her children’s childcare expenses.

Don’t believe everything you hear, especially when it comes to taxes. Before jumping on everyone’s tax bandwagon, take some time and do research to validate if what they are saying is true. If you find this overwhelming, consider working with a tax professional that can help separate fact from fiction.

 

 

Are Self-Directed IRAs a Good Idea?

April 18, 2016

If you could buy a private business, a rental property or racehorses in your Individual Retirement Account (IRA), would you do so? Even if you could, would that be a wise choice? Self-directed IRAs (SD-IRA) offering non-traditional investments have become increasingly popular and more broadly available.

The self-directed IRA is a traditional or Roth IRA in which the custodian, the financial institution which keeps records and reports to the IRS, permits the full range of investments allowed by law in retirement accounts. Many types of investments are permitted in IRAs, but there are certain things you can’t do, like buy collectibles (such as art and coins) and life insurance, as well as investment strategies that require borrowing, such as shorting stock or certain options strategies. However, the reality is the vast majority of financial institutions limit retirement account investments to the more traditional ones like stocks, bonds, mutual funds, CDs and exchange-traded funds.

“Self-Directed” Really Means “Alternative Investments Accepted”

The term “self-directed” is a bit off base. What it means is that alternative investments are accepted or offered by the IRA custodian. Technically, at most financial institutions, IRAs default to the more literal interpretation of “self-directed,” in that the account owner makes the final decisions on what investments to buy or sell, unless they have given discretion in writing to an investment advisor.

A custodian who offers self-directed IRAs agrees to keep required records of your non-traditional investments in the IRA and report them to the IRS. The custodian may or may not offer physical custody of the investment, depending on type, or may just house the records of investment activity and valuation. Common alternative investments available in SD-IRAs are precious metals, real estate, loans, and private equity.  Certain custodians of self-directed IRA accounts will accept just about anything allowed by the IRS, including tax lien certificates and dairy cows.

Very High Risk

Many alternative investments available in SD-IRAs carry a high risk of losing all or most of your money due to lack of diversification or the inherent risk of the investment itself. You may not be able to sell the investment later (lack of liquidity), meaning that you won’t be able to access the value of it to make distributions in retirement. Keep in mind that the entire burden of investigating the investment (doing your “due diligence”) is on you, the account holder. This could be a benefit when you are investing in an area of your professional expertise (e.g., the experienced real estate investor). However, it can also lead to fraud, when investors are duped into Ponzi schemes or other types of investment scams through slick offerings and piles of legal paperwork.

Beware of investing in anything you don’t understand and can’t explain easily to others. If you are considering an investment within an SD-IRA, read this pamphlet from the SEC first and do your homework. Use the checklist at the end of this post. Remember, if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

High Fees

Fees in self-directed IRAs are generally much higher than more traditional types of IRAs. Expect to pay set up fees, custodial fees and annual fees to value the investment. Many of the types of alternative investments offered in SD-IRAs are hard to value, so this can get quite pricey.

Keep in mind that the IRA or Roth IRA is the owner of the investment, so you don’t have direct control over it. With investments like real estate or a business, for example, that means you have to pay the custodian to do things like collect rents or business income. (Per this Bankrate article, some custodians propose that you set up a an IRA LLC to address this issue, which may give you checkbook control but is costly to establish and has legal risk.) No matter what, make sure you do some comparison shopping for a custodian who specializes in the type of investment you want to own in your SD-IRA.

Potential Tax Problems

Investors often get tripped up by unexpected tax consequences in SD-IRAs. Most importantly, in a traditional IRA, distributions in retirement are taxed as income, not the lower capital gains rate. The investor may have been better off holding the asset outside of a retirement account. Additionally, investors miss out on the ongoing favorable tax treatments for some common types of investments, such as real estate.

Depending on the type of investment income, a self-directed IRA may not be completely tax-deferred and a Roth IRA may not be completely tax-free. For example, if the investment generates Unrelated Business Income, the IRA or Roth IRA would be taxed at the high trust rates for the tax year in which it occurs. Those taxes must be paid by the IRA, not the account owner separately.

Can’t Invest in Yourself or Your Family

Don’t get too excited about selling the family business to your IRA! Certain transactions are prohibited in retirement accounts to prevent self-dealing, including transactions with people within your linear family, such as your spouse, your parents, your children, your grandchildren and their spouses. Most of your family could not work in or on behalf of the investment or live in a property held by the IRA.

When to Consider a Self Directed IRA?

SD-IRAs are not suitable for many people. Use this checklist to see if you might be a good candidate for self-directed IRA accounts: (Aim for at least 4 out of 6.)

  • I am an accredited investor. (If you don’t know what it is, you probably aren’t.) While you don’t need to be an accredited investor to open an SD-IRA, being one means you have the income and net worth to consider alternative investments.
  • I don’t need my IRA or Roth IRA for future retirement income. Either:
    • I am fully on track to completely fund my retirement with my employer-sponsored retirement plan, e.g., 401(k), 403(b), etc.
    • I have a pension or other investments (e.g., rental income) which will fully cover my retirement income needs.
  • I have well-diversified traditional investments in my work-sponsored and non-retirement brokerage accounts that can be liquidated to pay future living expenses if needed.
  • I have professional expertise and experience in the SD-IRA investment which I am considering.
  • I want to add a target percentage of precious metals to my retirement portfolio for diversification.
  • I am considering making a small private equity investment that might pay off big (a possible strategy in a Roth SD-IRA) but could also go bust.

Two Ways To Make Next April 15 Less Taxing

April 15, 2016

In the early days of my career as a financial advisor, there were some “interesting” investments that my clients owned. There were a lot of oil and gas partnerships that were very mediocre investments if viewed solely as an investment vehicle, but they offered spectacular tax advantages that made them wildly popular. People wanted to buy them solely for the tax benefits. And then…tax laws changed and these investments tanked! Clients couldn’t get out of them because no one else wanted them.

Similarly, I have had many conversations lately with people who are looking for magic strategies to reduce or eliminate their tax burdens from 2015. (It must be close to April 15th.) Newsflash – there is very little you can do in April 2016 to impact your 2015 tax return. When it comes to tax planning, the key is to start early in 2016 (I’d suggest NOW if you haven’t already) to impact the tax return you’ll file on April 15th 2017. A couple of my favorite ways to reduce income tax burdens are available right through your employer in many cases:

Health Savings Account (HSA): This is my #1 favorite right now. The contribution limit for single in ’16 is $3,350 and for a family it’s $6,750. Contributions are either pre-tax (through your employer) or tax deductible (if you write a check) and if used for medical expenses, they are tax-free on the way out too.

Are you kidding me??? The IRS allows a vehicle to be tax-free in AND tax-free out? That’s remarkable. You can build a substantial bucket of money in the future, and the IRS can help subsidize it. I can’t think of another vehicle where you’re allowed to “double dip” with tax benefits in and out.

401(k): Another great way to minimize next year’s taxes is to get as close as you can to the IRS maximum on your 401(k) contribution. This year, it’s $18,000 ($24,000 if over 50 years of age). If you’re in the 25% tax bracket, getting to the $18,000 mark would save you $4,500 in current year taxation. Rather than just stop at 3% or 6%, whatever the employer matching contribution is…..work toward getting the max contribution. If you can’t do it this year, you can increase your contribution by 1-2% per year until you’re there.

I hear and read a lot of “experts” talking about stopping at the level of employer matching contributions and then opening an IRA or Roth IRA outside of the employer account. I’m not opposed to that, but not everyone is disciplined enough to make that work.  But if you get up to the maximum contribution and then do the IRA or Roth IRA, you’re going to be saving an enormous amount of money and getting closer to your retirement goals with each passing paycheck. For perspective – I’ve never met someone who was within months of retiring complain that they had too much money saved for retirement!

These are two quick and easy things that you can do to make next April 15th much more manageable and reduce your overall tax burden. These are the obvious ones, and a future blog post will touch on some of the not so obvious ones. Until then, get busy contributing to your HSA and 401(k)!

How The Self-Employed Can Defer Taxes On Retirement Savings Too

April 14, 2016

Updated March, 2019

In our CEO’s book, What Your Financial Advisor Isn’t Telling You, Liz Davidson writes about understanding the importance of taxes to your investing returns. After all, it’s not just what you earn but what you actually keep. In honor of National Retirement Planning Week, I thought I’d write about one of the best ways to reduce taxes on your investing: qualified retirement plans.

By allowing you to defer taxes on your contributions and earnings until you withdraw the money, these plans benefit you in a couple of ways. First, you’re likely to pay a lower average tax rate on the withdrawals than on the contributions. (Even if you retire in the same tax bracket, a lot of your withdrawals will probably get taxed at lower rates because of how the tax code is structured.) Second, your investments will grow faster since the money that would otherwise be going to taxes is instead being reinvested.

Savings options for self-employed

But what if you or your spouse is self-employed? You can contribute to an IRA but you’re limited to only $6,000 a year or $7,000 if you’re over age 50. (One advantage to not having a retirement plan at work is being able to deduct all of your traditional IRA contributions regardless of your income.) Here are some other options if you’d like to put away a bit more in a tax-advantaged retirement account:

Individual 401(k). Also called a uni-401(k), solo 401(k) or a 401(k) for one, you’re only eligible if you have no partners or employees (other than maybe your spouse). The main advantage is that you can contribute up to $19,000 per year plus 25% of your earned income (there’s a special calculation of this) up to a total annual contribution of $56k plus an additional $6k if you’re over 50. Withdrawals are limited and subject to a 10% early withdrawal penalty but you can also set it up to allow you to borrow from the plan.

SEP-IRA. With a SEP-IRA, you can contribute 25% of your earned income (up to a total annual contribution of $56k plus an additional $6k if you’re over 50) but you have to contribute the same percentage of pay to each of your eligible employees. However, you can vary the percentage each year. Withdrawals are subject to a 10% early withdrawal penalty.

Simple IRA. With a Simple IRA, you generally cannot have more than 100 employees. Employees can contribute up to $13,000 per year (or $16,000 if over age 50) and you must either contribute 2% of income for each eligible employee (up to $5,600 a year) or provide a dollar-for-dollar match (up to $13,000 per year) of employee contributions of at least 3% of their income.  The penalty for early withdrawals is increased to 25% in the first two years and then 10% after that.

When I was self-employed, I chose the SEP-IRA since the individual 401(k) was too expensive for my needs (fees have come down a lot since then) and I couldn’t contribute as much to the Simple IRA (also didn’t like that higher penalty on early withdrawals).

If you or your spouse is self-employed, the individual 401(k) will allow you to contribute the highest amount and take a loan if necessary. If you have employees, it all depends on how much you want to contribute for yourself and for them. In any case, being self-employed is no excuse not to save for retirement and reduce your taxes in the process.

5 Areas That May Need Some Financial Spring Cleaning

March 31, 2016

With Easter weekend behind us and spring officially in the air, it’s time for some spring cleaning. Don’t forget about cleaning your financial life too. While it’s much easier to see the clutter in your home, the clutter in your finances could have much bigger consequences. Here are several areas that may need some cleaning up:

Your expenses. If you’ve never taken a look at what you spend money on, it can be a real eye-opener. Start by gathering at least 3 months’ of bank and credit card statements and record each expense. You can also use a tool like Mint or Yodlee MoneyCenter to track your spending online for free.

Then go through your expenses and see what areas of waste you can cut. Are there things you’re spending money on that you don’t really need? If you do need it, can you get it in a way that costs less? You can get some ideas for savings here.

Your credit report. It’s been estimated that about 70% of credit reports have errors that could be hurting your score. If you haven’t done so in the last 12 months, you can order a free copy of each of your 3 credit reports (TransUnion, Equifax, and Experian) at the official site: annualcreditreport.com and report any discrepancies. You can also improve your score by getting current on your bills and paying down debt. Just be aware that old debt falls off your credit report after 7 years and making a partial payment or even acknowledging the debt to the creditor can restart that clock so if it’s getting close and you’re past your state’s statute of limitations for being sued by a creditor, you may just want to wait it out.

Your retirement account. Do you have retirement accounts that you left at previous jobs? If so, your overall retirement portfolio may not be properly diversified or you may be paying more than you need to in fees. Unless you have employer stock or are taking advantage of some unique investment option in the plan, you might want to roll those accounts to your current employer’s plan or into an IRA to make them easier to manage.

Your savings and investment portfolio. Many people have accounts they’ve opened or investments they’ve bought for different reasons over the years and now their savings and investments are a cluttered mess. Having 10 different bank accounts or 5 US stock funds isn’t diversification. Here are some simple ways to make sure you’re properly diversified.

Your legal documents. Tax documents only need to be kept for 7 years at the most. After that, you might as well just shred them. Estate planning documents should be checked to make sure they’re still up-to-date. Once your spouse finds out that your ex is still listed as your beneficiary or your youngest child wasn’t included, it may be too late.

How about you? Have you spring cleaned any of your finances? If so, share your experiences in the comments section below.

 

Did You Contribute Too Much to a Roth IRA?

March 09, 2016
Updated June 14, 2017

One of the downsides of the Roth IRA is that there are income limits that preclude high income earners from contributing to these accounts. But for people on the cusp or for those who unexpectedly end up earning more than they planned (or who get married during the year and only discover after the fact that they now exceed the limits), it’s actually quite common to find out after they file their income taxes that they were actually ineligible to contribute the year before.

Luckily, the IRS understands that this can happen so there are ways to fix it, but you have to take certain steps to minimize the tax consequences and avoid penalties. Here are your choices if you contributed to a Roth IRA and then found out later that you were ineligible for the contributions because you made too much money in the year of contribution: Continue reading “Did You Contribute Too Much to a Roth IRA?”

How To Make That 1099 Less Taxing

February 12, 2016

One of the TV moments that I still find absolutely hilarious a long time after its first airing is Reverend Jim from “Taxi” taking his driver’s license exam. This clip STILL cracks me up every time I see it. While Rev. Jim not knowing what a yellow light means is not a big financial issue (although, I swear that A LOT of drivers I’ve seen lately have absolutely no clue what it means either), not knowing what a 1099 means could provide quite a shock to the recipient. Continue reading “How To Make That 1099 Less Taxing”

5 Reasons Not to Put Off Your Taxes

February 04, 2016

By now, you should have received the documents you need to file your taxes. I know it’s easy to procrastinate though. After all, I’ve had my share of late night runs to the post office on April 15th. (You actually have until April 18th to file your taxes this year because the IRS will be shut down on April 15th for “Emancipation Day.”) But there are some very good reasons not to put off filing your taxes: Continue reading “5 Reasons Not to Put Off Your Taxes”