Make Retirement Great Again!

December 09, 2016

Sometimes I need to learn to not open my mouth and make smart alec comments. The other day, I was in a meeting with coworkers in which we were talking about retirement, and I joked that we needed to help people “Make Retirement Great Again.” As a result, I was given the challenge of writing a blog post with that title.

We are living in a world where pensions are being frozen or eliminated, Social Security is projecting a reduction in benefits in the next several decades and the burden of building a secure retirement is now falling on our shoulders – not the government or the employer.  Today’s new graduates are a generation that is facing a mostly “build it yourself” retirement platform. So here is my absolutely non-partisan “6 step plan” for every person (from new graduates to grizzled workforce veterans) in this country to “Make Retirement Great Again”:

1. During your remaining work years, know exactly where your money goes. When you know this, you are in a position of power. You can say “I agree with where my money is going” or “I want to change this up a wee bit.” The key is that you then have the power to make informed choices. Whether it’s Mint.com, an Expense Tracker worksheet, a spending log or some other form of organized knowledge, find a tool that works for you so that you know exactly where every dollar goes.

2. Save an increasing amount each year. Many 401(k) plans have a “rate escalator” feature that allows you to increase your contribution percentage at pre-set intervals. For those who work for companies where annual pay increases are predictably timed, that is an amazing opportunity to increase your 401(k) contribution by 1% per year. Over the course of a career, this could mean hundreds of thousands or perhaps even more than a million dollars in extra retirement savings for those who are young enough. If you don’t have this feature, pick a day – either your annual increase date, your birthday, or on January 1st – to increase your contribution every year.

I promise that you won’t notice the difference in your net paycheck after 3 pay cycles. It will become your “new normal.” However, it may enable you to retire years earlier or move to a lower stress, lower paid job late in your career or position you well in the event of a downsizing.

3. Eliminate debt. In discussing early retirement packages with many dozens of employees recently, one of the key factors enabling those who accepted an early retirement package to walk into life beyond their long term corporate job was the absence of debt. Those who still had credit card debt or a big mortgage were far less confident in their ability to accept the early retirement offer. Most of them couldn’t accept the package even if they desperately wanted to.

If you aggressively pay down debt, including your mortgage, that is a tremendous way to position yourself to go into retirement feeling secure. A zero debt level allows you to have a very low embedded cost of living. It also allows your accumulated savings and investment dollars to last a whole lot longer since they aren’t being drawn down as rapidly.

4. Know your income streams. I’ve talked to so many people who “think they know” how much they’ll get from pensions and Social Security, only to be completely surprised (mostly on the happy surprise side but sometimes on the sad side) by the level of income they can expect from these sources. Knowing your numbers is a huge way to prepare yourself for a great retirement.

If you have a pension, run multiple estimates. Know your monthly payments at age 55, 60, 62, 65, 67 or or any other age that is relevant. See how the benefit changes can help you create your retirement vision.

Do the same thing for Social Security. Use this retirement estimator to see what you can expect from Social Security. Feel free to hit the “create new estimate” button at the end and use various ages.

5. Plan for medical expenses. Fidelity prepares a health care costs for couples in retirement report annually. For a couple retiring in 2016, the estimate is $260,000 in healthcare expenses from retirement through death. This is a pretty staggering level of expenses. How will you prepare for this?

A health savings account is a great tool to build a pool of funds for future healthcare expenses. If possible, max out your HSA annually between now and retirement and try to pay for medical expenses from your regular daily cash flow so that the HSA can build up and grow. Most HSA accounts have investment options as well, so those funds can be invested for growth. In the absence of that option, save even more aggressively in your 401(k) or bank savings account or some other form of savings/investments.

6. Be the opposite of Congress and try to reduce expenses or implement a spending freeze. This goes right back to step #1 and closes the loop. When you know what your expenses are, you then have the power to make changes.

Find small ways to reduce your spending. Even if it’s a couple dollars here and a couple dollars there, it all adds up. After a few months, you won’t miss the reduced spending.

When I’m ready to go into “expense reduction mode” or “spending freeze mode,” I have a cheesy way to keep focused. Every time I pull out my wallet (or log in to an online purchasing platform), I ask “Is this something that I really NEED, or do I just WANT this?” It sounds overly simplistic, but I can’t tell you how many times it’s made me pull out of the Starbucks parking lot before I get out of my car. Give it a whirl and see if it works for you. For every dollar you don’t spend, it’s a dollar that can be added to your emergency fund, paid on debt or invested.

 

 

Rebooting Your Career After a “Gray Divorce”

November 15, 2016

I was recently at a conference talking to a group of women. The conversation was about everything from movies and books to kids and then it turned to marriage. What surprised me about the conversation was not how many women were divorced (we all know that the divorce rate is high in our country) but the age of the women who were recently divorced or facing a divorce. Almost every woman at my table of 20 who was recently divorced or about to be divorced was about 50.

Many were either stay-at-home wives or worked part-time jobs making little money. The reality of being divorced meant they now had to look for work that was not only satisfying but could meet their expenses, and in some cases, help them save for retirement. As these women found themselves job hunting after being out of the job market for decades, I offered the following suggestions on what to look for before accepting an offer:

1) A generous 401(k) match and/or a pension program: Get as much help as your employer can give you to save for retirement, especially if you feel you are behind in savings. Although most pension programs are going the way of the dodo bird, there are still organizations like the federal and state governments  that pay a pension. The other is to look for companies with generous 401(k) matching programs. Consider using this article as a starting point to research potentially generous 401(k) plans and verify the information using Glassdoor, Vault or any other website that has employer information and/or employee comments about the company.

2) An extensive benefits package that you can take with you when you retire: Benefits like long term care, life and health insurance while you are working and after you retire (if offered) can be extremely valuable. In most cases (not all), long term care insurance is particularly cheaper when bought through an employer as opposed to an insurance salesperson. In some cases, you can even get it with a less extensive underwriting process.

3) A generous vacation schedule: Most people do not think about it, but you want time to recharge and see the world without having to fight your employer. Look for employers with generous vacation/time off schedules. As they say, time is money.

4) Good opportunities in your career: A company may have the best employment opportunity, but if it is not in the field you are in, you may not experience the full benefits. Consider the potential career opportunities in your field from your potential employer. Explore the job training and tuition reimbursement programs and how committed the company is to helping you develop professionally. Also consider that it may be better to temporarily take a lower paying job if it advances you in the long run.

There are lots of websites to help you on your search. Look at articles such as Forbes‘ “The Best Places to Work in 2016”  or similar articles in your local newspaper. Employees are not shy talking about their companies, both good and bad. Go on websites like Glassdoor,  Vault and Monster  to get insider info about the company. You can even ask questions as many people are happy to reply.

Lastly, do not discount the power of personal connections. Talk to your friends and family about your job search and try to get insight about potential employers. The work you put in at the front end will go a long way to finding a satisfying career.

 

 

 

What I Learned From an Early Retirement Package

November 11, 2016

Over the last few weeks, I have been having a whole lot of conversations about retirement with employees of one of our client companies. They are offering an early retirement package (ERP) to a fairly large number of employees, and they have a fairly short window of time in which to make a decision about accepting it or declining the offer. When retirement is no longer something that has a long term time horizon and is suddenly presented as an immediate opportunity, what is important suddenly becomes crystal clear, and that is slightly different for each person.

I have been able to make some observations on the factors that have driven the decision for most of the candidates for the ERP. It isn’t hugely surprising, but these factors are helping people make one of the most important decisions of their lives. So let’s learn from them so that we can be in a great position to make our retirement decisions with a clear head and on our own time lines. Here’s what I’ve found over the last several weeks:

People with very low levels of debt are much more likely to be able to accept the ERP. The people I met who have paid their mortgage off are, with an almost unanimous vote, accepting the offer and moving on to the next phase of life.

What I learned: I want to pay my mortgage off ASAP! Any debt should be eliminated quickly and you’ll be in a better position over the long haul. When all debt is gone, your embedded cost of living is lower for the rest of your life. That can do nothing but extend the life of your asset base.

The cost of health insurance in the future was a factor in everyone’s decision. Some had a spouse who could cover them or had the ability to roll into Medicare. Others are going to price policies on the exchanges or with affinity groups or simply price policies on a few insurer websites. Those with a clear plan for how to handle the cost of insurance had a very good likelihood of accepting the ERP.

What I learned: In order to prepare for medical costs in the future, I’m planning to max out my HSA annually and invest the account for long term growth, while paying most medical costs out-of-pocket. I plan to keep abreast of the ever-changing landscape of health insurance as well. Recently, we saw significant increases in premiums for health insurance in the exchanges so being aware of the landscape is always a best practice.

The folks who were confident in their ability to land another job before the severance package ran out were also much more likely to accept the offer. With a relatively generous severance package, those who could get jobs relatively quickly could “double dip” for a while. With income from two jobs, they can work on paying debt off or invest a sizable portion of their income.

What I learned: Having an updated resume and refreshing your LinkedIn profile periodically is always a best practice. One never knows when the employment market will turn into the next batch of good (or bad) news, so being prepared at all times is a very worthy endeavor. Keep your contacts organized. Stay in touch with former coworkers, as well as current ones. Use your internal network to help find opportunities.

The lessons I learned over the last few weeks will provide more benefits to me than the benefits I provided to the individual employees. I will consider all of these factors and work to make sure that when the time comes for me to consider retiring, I have all of my I’s dotted and T’s crossed. You should too.

 

 

How to Evaluate an Early Retirement Offer

November 07, 2016

You’ve received an offer from your employer with financial incentives to retire early. You’ve got to admit you’re intrigued. Should you consider accepting it? Before you say “yes” or “no,” ask yourself these questions:

Am I ready to leave?

Before running any numbers, be honest with yourself. When you received the offer of early retirement incentives, were you excited, somewhat interested or depressed? The more interested you are emotionally in moving on, the less likely you will regret your decision if you decide to accept the offer.

It’s also important to assess the state of the company. If you decide to stay, are there any reasons your job might be in jeopardy in the near future? Be clear-eyed about all the possibilities, and factor them into your decision.

Can I afford to completely retire now?

Run a retirement calculator to see if you could retire now, based on what you’ve saved so far and your estimated income from Social Security and any pensions and/or other investments.  Make sure you run the worst case scenario, not just the best case scenario. For example, model scenarios assuming a 2% return, a 4% return and a 6% return, and consider running the scenarios through ages 85, 90 and even 100. If the model shows you can retire with a reasonable lifestyle, keep pace with inflation and not run out of money in old age, you will feel more comfortable that you are ready.

What will I do for health insurance?

Health insurance is expensive. Up until now, you’ve participated in a group health plan, with your employer picking up a large part of the cost. If you have family coverage, the typical full cost of coverage is $17,500 per year. If you accept the offer, you’ll need to find and pay for new health care coverage until you are age 65 and can participate in Medicare. Review your options:

  • Continue your group coverage under COBRA for 18 months. You would pay the full premium yourself (or with retiree health plan dollars if you are fortunate enough to have one). If you have funds in your health savings account (HSA), you can use them to pay for insurance premiums for health care continuation coverage through COBRA.
  • Get coverage from your spouse’s employer-sponsored plan, if applicable. A spouse losing their coverage is a  qualifying event and they will be able to add you to their insurance.
  • Seek coverage under the Affordable Care Act. Even if you retire outside of the open enrollment period, losing your employer-provided coverage is a qualifying event. Start at healthcare.gov to see what is available in your state. Depending on your new family income after early retirement, you may qualify for a subsidy of your insurance premiums. In any case, you cannot be turned down for coverage.
  • Look for coverage on the private market. An insurance broker or online marketplaces such as eHealth or GoHealth are helpful places to start comparing plans and prices. Even if you are considering coverage under the Affordable Care Act, it’s a good idea to shop around and compare.

When will I claim Social Security?

The earliest eligible retirees can claim Social Security benefits is age 62. Most workers receiving early retirement incentive offers now would not be eligible for full Social Security benefits until age 66 to 67, depending on current age. If you claim early, benefits will be reduced based on the longer payout period.  Delaying Social Security to full retirement age or even as late as age 70 will increase your monthly benefits.  Factors to consider include:

  • Will you need the money? If you will need the income to make ends meet, you have your answer. However, if you can get by with some additional income from part time work, you’ll be able to receive higher monthly benefits by delaying claiming Social Security.
  • Is your spouse still working or do you anticipate any employment income? If your spouse is still working, you’ll be taxed at their marginal tax rate on your Social Security benefits. Plus, if your family earnings exceeds $15,720 for 2016, you’ll lose $1 for every $2 you earn above the limit. (Note that the benefit isn’t truly lost. You’ll be able to recoup that once you hit full retirement age).
  • How’s your health? If you have health issues, you may decide to take Social Security early. If you don’t, delaying may make more sense.
  • Do you have longevity in your family? Do you have someone in your immediate family who lived to 95 or 100? If folks in your family generally live long lives, consider delaying Social Security benefits
  • Do you have other assets you can tap? Does it make sense to tap your 401(k), pension, Roth IRA or brokerage accounts first? Model different scenarios to see which offers you the highest total lifestyle in retirement.

As you can see, there are a lot of factors to consider in deciding whether to take an early retirement offer. There is no right or wrong answer for everyone. Just make sure yours is an educated one.

 

Do you have a question you’d like answered on the blog? Please email me at [email protected]. You can follow me on the blog by signing up here, and on Twitter @cynthiameyer_FF.

 

Are You Disheartened By This Election Season?

October 28, 2016

After watching all of the political debates, I am both disheartened and encouraged. As much as I am disheartened at this point, I’ve always been a big fan of finding reasons for hope and optimism. Don’t let obstacles outside of your control impact your life. Here’s why:

Stock markets rise. Stock markets fall. We know this (or we should).

Yet every time the stock market has a rough week, I field calls from nervous investors. People who see their 401(k) balance go down every day for a week or two tend to want answers. We talk with them about their long term goals and their current asset allocation. At times, they are invested in a way that is either way too aggressive for their stage of life and their goals and at other times (and fewer in frequency), they are invested more conservatively than their stage of life and goals would indicate is appropriate.

Most of the time, though, they are invested in a way that is perfectly suitable. In those cases, we talk about patience and allowing the market to do the rising and falling that it always does without getting too emotionally invested. They can’t control the markets, but they can control how they react to changes in the markets.

Similarly, whether the economy is great (remember when that used to happen?) or lousy or just muddling along like it has for the last 7-8 years, no one individual (not even Janet Yellen) can control the overall US economy.  Even less control can be exerted over the global economy. The one thing that we can control to a large extent is our “personal economy.”

How much are you contributing to your 401(k)? How much are you saving in other accounts on a regular, automatic basis? What’s your level of spending in relation to your income? These are things we can totally control.  

Those who examine their financial habits and lifestyle will find that their personal choices control a great deal of their financial life. The great thing about choices is that they aren’t permanent (kinda like elections) so if we’ve chosen to spend 102% of our income over the last few years, we can decide to spend less, move to lower cost housing, drive a lower cost car, cut the cable cord, etc. If we haven’t saved enough in our 401(k), we can increase our contribution every year. If we don’t have a solid emergency fund, we can direct deposit $5, $10, $20 or more to our savings account with each paycheck. The amount isn’t as important as the momentum.

So let’s use this season of disheartening political shenanigans to focus on our own personal economies and make progress on our goals. My challenge to you is to pick one area in your financial life, one where you DO have control, and before election day, make one change to your current habits. We can’t change the national economy, but we can change our own.

When Should You Go the DIY Route?

October 24, 2016

Have you ever wondered, “when does it pay to have a professional do it versus doing it myself?” My fellow planner, Cyrus Purnell, CFP® and I were chatting about our funny home improvement adventures. Then the conversation turned to other areas where sometimes it’s better to go it alone and sometimes to get help. Here’s what he told me:

A couple of weeks ago, I saw an Instagram post of a buddy of mine with his face buried in his hands and a pair of car keys with the hashtag #failmomentoftheday. Apparently, he tried to program a new key for his wife’s car and managed to deprogram both keys. The result was hiring a tow truck to haul the car to the dealership – what he was trying to avoid in the first place.

I spoke with him afterwards and he mentioned he was convinced to go the DIY route after watching YouTube videos. If alcohol is liquid courage, YouTube is definitely digital courage. My own failures after a little digital courage include: various attempts to fix my car and lawnmower, burnt pieces of meat offered up to the grill gods and a Craigslist’s furniture fixer upper which now resides in my attic.

I can now laugh at these DIY disasters. However, sometimes doing it yourself may not be a laughing matter. At what point does the cost of making a rookie mistake outweigh the price of having someone else do it?

When does it make sense to hire a financial advisor to help guide you in decisions related to your nest egg? Should you try to write your own will? Can you find the best insurance and mortgage rates on your own? Here are some thoughts on the value of hiring a professional:

When should you hire a financial advisor?

The value of a financial advisor is found in their ability to work with you to build a portfolio you can tolerate during the inevitable ups and downs of the market. Time in the market generally beats timing the market and a good advisor can help you stay on track in this area. Additionally, once your nest egg is in place, a good financial advisor helps you design a strategy which allows you to take income.

If you want to invest outside of your employer’s retirement plan and retirement is more than 10 years away, DIY investing can make sense. There are a lot of low cost investment options to consider or robo adviser options which can function as an “advisor lite.” If you are simply not comfortable going alone or you are nearing your investment goal, it may be time to interview an investment advisor.

Financial advisor is a generic term so you may want to look for someone reputable and with training specific to your needs. My colleague Erik Carter wrote a blog post that explains exactly what to look for in a trusted adviser: https://www.financialfinesse.com/2012/10/04/can-you-really-trust-your-financial-adviser/. Doing your due diligence is so important my CEO wrote a book about it: What Your Financial Advisor Isn’t Telling You: The Ten Essential Truths You Need to Know About Your Money. That’s a good place to start to see if you really need one.

When do you need a professional to assist with estate planning?

An estate plan can direct where your assets such as a car, home, business, savings, etc., will go in the event of your death. Our own mortality is not the most pleasant topic, but it is one we all deal with it. A well thought out estate plan can make it much easier for those we leave behind.

If you have a blended family or assets across multiple states, professional assistance is especially helpful. If you think a trust might be necessary, you will certainly need to have an attorney to establish one. If you are looking for an attorney that practices estate planning law in your area, a great resource is your local estate planning council: http://www.naepc.org/. Also consider looking into whether your employer offers a legal assistance benefit.

Do you feel your situation does not merit hiring an attorney? Then it can make sense to find a tool to help you put a will in place. Websites like nolo.com offer wills which conform to the laws of your state.

When do you need to hire a tax professional?

If you are filing a 1040EZ or you are not claiming deductions beyond your home and your kids then using tax software will typically do a good job of filing your taxes at a minimal cost. There are cases when a software program may not be the right fit though. If you own a small business, collect income from rental property or if you are settling an estate, hiring a certified public accountant or an enrolled agent can be a very prudent investment.

If you are going to pay someone to help you, hiring a CPA, EA or an attorney would be preferable because they can speak to the IRS on your behalf if you are ever audited. Not only can these professionals help you file your taxes, but they can also give you advice regarding how to run your business to take maximum advantage of the tax rules. The IRS actually offers a site to find qualified professionals in your area: https://www.irs.gov/tax-professionals/choosing-a-tax-professional

When should you work with  a mortgages or insurance broker?

From personal experience, I can suggest the more “plain vanilla” your circumstance is the more likely you can save some time and money online, but the more complex your circumstances are, the better off you may be with a seasoned professional. What is not “plain vanilla?” In the case of life, disability, and long term care insurance, if you have a health condition that could be viewed as negative or uncommon, it may pay to talk to an insurance broker. They can point you to the right companies that will insure you in spite of that condition. In the case of a mortgage, if you have some instances which merit explaining on your credit report, it may pay to have a mortgage broker shop and find the bank or mortgage company that would look more favorably on your situation.

Knowing whether to hire someone or DIY can be tricky. Hopefully this gives you an idea of when to call someone. Otherwise, you may experience your own #failmomentoftheday.

 

Do you have a question you’d like answered on the blog? Please email me at [email protected]. You can follow me on the blog by signing up here, and on Twitter @cynthiameyer_FF.

 

Don’t Let Open Enrollment Go to Waste

October 21, 2016

It seems like when I start hearing people talk about pumpkin spice lattes, open enrollment season is right around the corner.  And in the last several weeks, I’ve talked to a lot of people going through the process of selecting benefits. Here are some quick thoughts regarding open enrollment that you may want to consider as you select your benefits:

Contribution rate escalator: This is a great time to sign up for the rate escalator feature of your 401(k).  If you increase your contributions by 1% per year, you will be building ever increasing momentum toward a financially secure future.

Automatic re-balancing: While you’re in your 401(k) to enroll in the rate escalator, it makes sense to sign up for the re-balancing feature as well. There are lots of studies that indicate that re-balancing your portfolio can increase your rate of return anywhere from ¼% to 1% per year. I prefer it as a risk management tool, rather than a growth tool. By never allowing one asset class to run wild and dominate your portfolio, you stand a lower risk of getting devastated if the markets in that asset class collapse.

Life insurance: Most companies allow an increase of 1x salary without evidence of insurability. I’ve talked to a number of people who have developed some health issues that make purchasing life insurance either impossible or very cost prohibitive. It may take a number of years, but if you have any issues with securing life insurance, use every annual open enrollment to increase your company-sponsored insurance benefit by 1x salary.

Disability insurance: Disability insurance is, in my opinion, the single most important insurance coverage anyone can have. At each open enrollment, make sure that you have the absolute maximum disability insurance coverage allowed.

Pre-paid legal benefits. I’ve seen articles saying that between 50% and 75% of adults don’t have a will and advance healthcare directives in place. Pre-paid legal plans are becoming more common in benefits packages and for usually under $20/month, you can get coverage that would allow you to draft these important documents.  If you sign up for one year and get your documents drafted, you will experience a tremendous return on the money spent for that benefit.

Your benefits are a key part of your total compensation. Open enrollment season is a great opportunity to make sure you’re taking advantage of them and getting your financial ducks in a row. Don’t waste it.

 

 

What’s Your Lifetime Medical Expense Plan?

October 14, 2016

I got a phone call from my daughter (senior in college) not too long ago, relatively late at night, asking me if I could text her a photo of my HSA card. I figured she was heading to the pharmacy to pick up some antibiotics for a sinus infection. But when I heard Nick & Danny (two of her roomies) screaming in the background to get towels and try to stop the bleeding, I learned that her calm exterior was masking something bigger.  It turns out that she eventually needed a whole bunch of staples and some glue to close up the large gash in her leg acquired when opening a box with a large knife when she couldn’t find her small scissors. She’s back to walking normally now so the crisis is over and she’s back to her normal daily activities.

It’s amazing to me how many different bills can come in from one injury. There were bills from the hospital (supplies, etc.), the ER department, the physicians group who treated her and a few others that I’m sure I’ve forgotten. The incoming mail probably hasn’t come to a complete halt just yet.

While I have an emergency fund set aside for emergencies (what else would it be for?), in the heat of the moment, I wasn’t thinking “let me pull money from my emergency fund so that she can get treated at the hospital.” I was thinking “Holy ****!  My daughter’s roomies are screaming and she’s got the calm “something’s wrong” demeanor. I need to get the hospital paid right now so that they see her.” So I used my health savings account card to pay for the trip to the hospital.

I deviated from the logic and reason that I use in my normal budgeting process. In the heat of the moment, I “messed up.”  But the good news is that I had my health savings account there as a backup. That wasn’t consistent with my long term plan, but I’m not going to look back with any regret.

My long term plan with my HSA is to build a pool of $100,000 or more before I retire. I plan to make the maximum contribution every year, pay for medical expenses from either my checking account or my emergency fund (if it’s a big one) and invest the balance for growth. Once I retire, the HSA will be there to pay for medical expenses for the rest of my life…or at least a good portion of the rest of my life.

What’s your plan to pay for medical expenses for the next 20, 30, 40 years or more? I have an outline of what I plan to do. I encourage you to come up with your own personal “lifetime medical expenses” plan. Here are some ways that people have told me that they plan to pay for medical care:

  • Health savings account – that’s the one that I’m planning to use.
  • Emergency savings – building up a large emergency savings fund, well beyond the 3-6-9 months of expenses, is what several people have told me that they plan to do to pay for their healthcare in retirement.
  • Large income streams from Social Security, pension and investment accounts while minimizing expenses – that’s the game plan for a few folks I’ve talked to recently.
  • Moving to Costa Rica, Panama, or some other foreign country where healthcare quality is good but costs are significantly lower.

These are just a few of the many ways people have told me that they are planning to cover medical expenses over the rest of their lives. I’m sure there are others. What’s your plan?

How Not to Eat Your Retirement

September 27, 2016

“I am eating my retirement.”  This was my friend’s reaction finding out that she was spending about $1,000 a month eating out by organizing transactions in her online account. She told me that she wants to eat at home but struggles to grocery shop and meal plan. I told her that with a few online tools and kitchen gadgets, we can come up with a plan to get her to eat at home more.

If your cooking skills involve menus as opposed to recipes, use online tools to create recipes. If you are fine buying the food but need help with organizing recipes online, tools like Big Oven can help. If you need help coming up with recipes, tools like Emeals will deliver recipes for all types of cooking and food preferences. If you struggle with recipes and food shopping, websites like Blue Apron not only provide the food and recipes. You can also make enough so part of your dinner can be the next day’s lunch.

Slow cookers are awesome for making easy healthy, meals. Crockpot.com has a ton of recipes on their website. You can prep, freeze and dump the ingredients in the night before, turn on the Crockpot and come home to a great meal.

Indoor grills are a lifesaver. I can cook delicious grilled chicken, turkey burgers and fish in a few minutes. It is also almost fool proof. You simply turn on the grill, spray oil, sprinkle a few spices, slap the chicken on the grill and in about 10 minutes, you have restaurant quality chicken breasts. Many are no stick so the cleanup is a breeze.

Spices can make or break a meal. If you are not sure what spices to use, websites like Cooksmart offer great guides to picking spices. Check out your local spice store (mine is Penzey) for blended spices and even guidance on what to choose.

Are you eating your retirement? Thankfully, saving money on food doesn’t have to cost a lot of time anymore. In this day and age, technology, a few kitchen tools and spices can make planning and cooking meals at home easy.

How to Calculate the Value of Your Benefits

September 26, 2016

Are you overlooking the real value of your benefits when you think about your compensation? According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, benefits accounted for 31.4 percent of employer paid compensation for U.S. workers  in June 2016, with salary making up the other 68.6 percent. It’s “open enrollment” season, the time of year when employees make decisions about their health insurance and other employee benefits for the upcoming year. While you’re weighing your options, it’s a good time to practice some benefits appreciation.  One way to do this is to estimate how much the benefits you choose are worth to you:

Health Insurance (typically $5,000 – $30,000)  – Your health insurance is a significant component of your benefits.  How can you value what your employer contributes for you and your family, as well as the discount you receive on coverage for participating in a large group plan? According to the 2016 Milliman Medical Index, the cost of healthcare for a typical American family of four covered by an average employer-sponsored preferred provider organization (PPO) plan is $25,826, with employers typically picking up 57% of the cost. That means that participation in their company sponsored health care plan is worth at least $14,721 for that typical family at the typical employer. Of course your insurance costs may be different, and your  employer may subsidize more or less of that.

More and more employers are also offering high deductible health plans in conjunction with a health savings account (HSA). In many cases, they’re contributing to the employee’s HSA as well. HSAs are a widely misunderstood and underrated benefit, and if you fully utilize your HSA, the long term tax advantages can be a benefit to you in retirement.

Retirement Plan (typically 3-6 percent of your salary in matching contributions) – While companies aren’t required to make matching contributions to what employees save for retirement, most companies with employer-sponsored 401(k) plans are offering this benefit. According to the Society for Human Resource Management (SHRM), 42% match employee contributions dollar for dollar up to a certain amount. 56 percent of companies require workers to save 6 percent or more in order to receive the full employer-matching contribution.

There’s also the value of having an employer-sponsored retirement plan in the first place. If you don’t have one as an employee, you won’t be able to save as much for retirement in tax-advantaged accounts. The consequence: employees without a work-sponsored retirement plan are far less likely to save for retirement. In fact, according to the National Institute on Retirement Security, 45% of working age households in the U.S. have zero retirement account savings.

Stock Purchase Plan (typically 10 to 15 percent of market value per share purchased) – In a typical stock purchase plan, the employer offers employees the opportunity, but not the  obligation, to purchase publicly traded company stock at a discount from the market value.

Disability Insurance ($2,000 to $5,000 per year) – Premiums for insurance that replaces a portion of your income if you can’t work due to a non-work related illness or injury can be paid for by the employer, employee or both. Purchasing this insurance as individual policies would be quite expensive. Group policies are much less expense per covered employee, so even if you’re paying some or all of the premiums yourself, you’re getting a good deal. That is if you have access at all. According to the Bureau of Labor statistics only 25 percent of U.S. employees have access to both short and long term disability insurance benefits through their employer.

Life Insurance ($250 to $500 per year) – Many large employers cover their employees with term life insurance at one times their annual salary. Supplemental term coverage is often available for a low, additional cost.

Employer Contribution to FICA (7.65 percent of salary) – What is FICA and why does it get so much money from my paycheck?! FICA stands for Federal Insurance Contribution Act, e.g., Social Security and Medicare, and your employer pays just as much as you do towards both programs.  The employer contribution adds up to total of 7.65 percent of your salary and bonus. When you are retired and draw Social Security and utilize Medicare for health insurance, know that your employers were partners in getting you there.

Unemployment Insurance (0.3 – 1.5 percent of salary) – Under the Federal Unemployment Tax Act (FUTA), employers pay your unemployment insurance, not you, as well as most states. If you lose your job through no fault of your own, and you meet your state’s requirements, you can file for unemployment benefits for some period of time (which varies by state). Like all types of catastrophic insurance, you hope you won’t have to file a claim – but it’s comforting to know that it’s there if you need it.

Other great benefits –  Your company may offer other benefits such as tuition reimbursement, pre-paid legal assistance, commuter benefits, health and wellness programs, access to group long term care insurance, etc. Before you make decisions during open enrollment, check and see if your company has a workplace financial wellness program. That is the benefit which helps you understand all your other benefits.

Do you have a question about workplace benefits? Please email me at [email protected]. You can also follow me on Twitter @cynthiameyer_FF.

 

How To Take Money Out Of Your Accounts In Retirement

September 22, 2016

Updated April, 2018

We typically spend most of our working life putting money in accounts for retirement, but how do we take them out after we retire? I recently received a question from a “long time reader, first time caller,” about how to order which accounts he will withdraw from when he retires soon. The conventional wisdom is to withdraw money first from taxable accounts, then tax-deferred accounts, and then tax-free accounts in order to allow your money to grow tax-deferred or tax-free as long as possible. However, there are a few other things you might want to consider too:

Will you need to purchase health insurance before you’re eligible for Medicare at 65? If so, your eligibility for subsidies under the Affordable Care Act is partly based on your taxable income. In that case, you might want to tap money that’s already been taxed like savings accounts and money that’s tax-free like Roth accounts to maximize your health insurance subsidy (but not so low that you end up on Medicaid instead). You can use this calculator to estimate what that amount would be.

Are you collecting Social Security yet? Withdrawing from tax-free Roth accounts can also reduce the taxes on your Social Security. That’s because the amount of your Social Security that’s taxable (either 0, 50%, or 85%) depends on your overall taxable income plus nontaxable interest (like muni bonds) but not tax-free Roth withdrawals.

How can you minimize your tax rate? First, you’ll want to withdraw (or convert to a Roth) at least about $12k a year from your pre-tax accounts because the standard deduction makes that income tax-free. If you have other deductions, you may be able to have even more tax-free income. Then take a look at the tax brackets and see how much income you can withdraw before going into a higher bracket.

For example, a married couple’s first $19,050 of taxable income is only taxed at 10%, with the next $58,350 is taxed at 12% according to 2018 tax brackets. Any long term capital gains at those levels are taxed at 0%. If you’re about to go into a higher bracket, you may want to use tax-free income to avoid those higher rates. Just keep in mind that pensions and taxable Social Security (see above) will also count as income in determining your tax bracket.

How do you put it all together? Your withdrawal strategy may change and adjust based on the situation. You may tap into savings accounts (including your HSA) and sell taxable investments to maximize your health insurance credits until 65. Then you may withdraw from taxable accounts until you collect Social Security benefits at age 70, which draws down your required minimums at 70 1/2 while maximizing your Social Security payment. At that point, you can continue withdrawing from your taxable accounts to fill in the lower tax brackets and then use tax-free accounts to avoid the next tax bracket.

Of course, this all assumes that you have investments in multiple types of tax accounts. Otherwise, it doesn’t really apply to you. But if you do, you might want to consult with a qualified and unbiased financial planner to help you sort it out and come up with the right strategy. If your employer offers that as a free benefit, it might be a good place to start.

 

Why You Should Roll Your 401(k) to Your New Employer

September 19, 2016

When changing jobs, what should you do with your employer-sponsored retirement account balance? Our blog editor,  Erik Carter, JD, CFP®, recently wrote a post titled What Should You Do With That Old Retirement Plan, in which he stated that if he left an employer, he would be very likely to roll over his retirement account balance to an IRA in order to have access to more investment choices. Erik outlined a job-changing employee’s four options: 1) leave the money in the former employer’s plan, 2) cash out your account, 3) roll over your balance to a new employer or to an individual IRA or 4) purchase an immediate income annuity (if it’s a feature of your former plan.)

Option 3, rolling over your balance, is by far the preferable choice for the large majority of retirement savers. For most people, it may make more sense to roll their retirement plan balance to their new employer’s plan rather than an IRA. Here’s why:

Lower Fees

Many 401(k) plans offer participants access to institutional share class mutual funds and very low cost index funds, especially those sponsored by large employers. Conversely, investing in your IRA can get expensive if you aren’t careful to monitor the mutual fund fees, trading costs and account fees. Before you make your distribution decision, compare and contrast the fees for all your options, including leaving your account with your previous employer, rolling your balance to an IRA and rolling it to your new employer. Not sure which option offers you the lowest cost of investing, given the type of investments your want to choose? Use FINRA’s free mutual fund fee analyzer tool.

Keep it Simple

While it’s true that there is a broader universe of investment options in a self-directed IRA account at a brokerage firm or mutual fund company than in your workplace retirement plan, many investors don’t need or want that kind of customization in their investment strategy. Keeping your retirement plan balances in one place allows you to see at a glance the investment mix of your retirement savings and how much you’ve saved simply by logging on to one site. If you’re a more “hands-off” investor, a target date fund in your plan with a date near your target retirement can offer you an easy, diversified, one-stop-shopping investment strategy.

Protection Against Lawsuits

Balances in retirement plans, such as 401(ks), are protected against civil judgments and bankruptcy. (But if you owe taxes, your 401(k) assets can be seized to settle the tax debt – and you’ll have to pay more taxes and a 10% penalty if you take an early withdrawal to settle the bill.) The higher your income and/or net worth, the more important it is to consider this factor. However, depending on where you live, your state may not extend that protection to IRAs.

Borrowing Power

Many 401(k) plans permit participants to borrow from their plan assets at a very low rate of interest. If you roll your old plan into your new plan, you’ll have a bigger base of assets against which to borrow. (A common borrowing limit is 50% of your vested balance up to $50,000, but check with your plan administrator for the specifics of your plan.)

While the disadvantages usually outweigh the advantages in borrowing against your retirement plan, there are times when it may make sense, such as preventing eviction, foreclosure or auto repossession, paying off very high interest debt or putting 20% down on a home purchase to avoid PMI. Keep in mind that you’ll repay the loan with after-tax dollars so you’ll end up being double-taxed on the interest when you eventually withdraw it, and those funds won’t have access to market performance during the loan repayment period. Also, if you leave your company for any reason before the loan is repaid, your unpaid balance becomes a taxable retirement plan distribution, subject to a 10% penalty.

Workplace Financial Guidance

More and more companies are offering workplace financial wellness programs, where financial education and guidance are offered to employees as an employer-paid benefit. Can you attend a workshop or webcast, use an online learning resource or work one-on-one with a financial coach? More 401(k) plan sponsors also offer access to robo advice, where an online investment adviser service sets your investment mix based on your risk tolerance and time horizon and regularly re-balances your portfolio.

How about you? What do you think is a better idea: rolling an old retirement plan into an IRA or into your next employer’s plan? Email me at [email protected] or let me know on Twitter @cynthiameyer_FF.

 

 

How to Be Better With Money

September 16, 2016

The NFL season is underway, and I’ve seen more purple in Baltimore recently than I have in months. Everywhere I go, I’m seeing enthusiastic fans getting ready for the upcoming season. Before the first game of the season, fans of every team believe that THIS is the year that their team is going to win the Super Bowl. 31 of 32 fan bases will ultimately be disappointed. But at this time of year, hope springs eternal everywhere (except maybe Cleveland!)

I see the same “Let’s Get Started” level of enthusiasm from people who tell me that they have been a bit of a mess financially in the past but are ready to make progress now. I’ve heard countless people say “I’m bad with money” or “I have no clue what I’m doing financially.” I refuse to believe that they can’t, in a few quick and easy steps, develop lifelong habits that will take them to a place of financial security. I refuse to allow them to speak poorly of their financial habits.

I ask if they have ever played an instrument or a sport or any type of art. Almost everyone has tried something like that at some point in their life. I ask them to go back to their very first day of playing the clarinet or saxophone or whatever it is, and they laugh at just how terrible they were on that first day.

After I get them to talk about how they went from horrific to actually having a clue about what they’re doing, they understand that managing money is merely a skill that they haven’t practiced yet, and today is day 1 of their new talent coming to the surface. At that point, there is an enthusiasm that tells me they are ready. When I see and hear that level of enthusiasm, I know that they are serious about making progress.

The secret to building a foundation of financial success is keeping things simple and automating as much of it as possible. With automation, simplicity and just a little bit of work, managing your personal finances is rather easy.  Here are some steps to take:

Step 1: Get some basic facts together so that you have a starting point. 

  • This financial organizer will help you see the aerial overview of your financial life on one page.  What do you own vs. what do you owe?
  • This expense tracker can help you see how much money comes in during the month and how much goes out. With these two worksheets, you have a lot of useful data, and if you update these quarterly, you will start to see progress.

Step 2: Automate things.  

  • Contribute to your 401(k) at an amount at least up to the company match. Then, enroll in the rate escalator feature to increase your contribution by 1% annually – either on 1/1 or on your anniversary or your birthday. Just pick a day and enroll in it.
  • Open a savings account at a credit union or online bank, one that is NOT where your checking account is and get a direct deposit going there. The amount isn’t important. A $5, $10, or $20/pay deposit will suffice. It’s the momentum that’s important and the speed bump! When you have your savings account at the same bank as your checking account, it’s way too easy to log in and slide money from one account to the other.
  • A great tool for “accidental savings” is the Acorns phone app. It rounds your transactions up to the next dollar (so if pay $1.86 for a coffee, it adds $.14 and slides it over to Acorns, where you can invest in a very conservative portfolio). I “accidentally saved” a couple thousand dollars that were used as a part of my down payment on the house I just bought.

Step 3:  Stay alert and updated.

  • For your credit score, CreditKarma.com and CreditSesame.com are great free tools to stay on top of any changes in your credit file.
  • AnnualCreditReport.com allows you to get a copy of your credit reports at no cost once/year. Make sure that everything there is actually yours!
  • Mint.com can show you on a daily basis all of the transactions in all of your accounts from the prior day. (I launch that app from my phone every morning while I’m still half asleep and before I hop out of bed.) This is a great way to make sure that no one is accessing your accounts without your knowledge.
  • The financial organizer and expense tracker above are excellent tracking tools. Keep a binder full of reports that you can look back on in the future to see where you started and where you are. You’ll be shocked at the progress, and when you see it, you’ll want more of it.

For anyone who has ever said “I’m lousy with money,” I say “You are no longer allowed to say that! EVER!!!” Your new phrase is “I’m always learning to be better with my money.”   With that new phrase and these tools, you can transform your financial life in relatively short order.

Should You Contribute Pre-tax or Roth?

September 15, 2016

That’s one of the most common questions we get. For example, I recently received the following email: (My response follows.)

I am a 26 year old in my fourth year as a police officer. I’ve been contributing to my employers 401a and deferred comp programs for about 3 years. My contributions have been Roth and after reading your article, I’m wondering if that’s the best option for me. I have a part time job at the local mall that matches 5% of pre tax contribution and I max out there as well. I don’t plan on using the money until retirement, so should I switch my main employer to pre tax as well? This year I’ll make around 60-70k, but next year I’ll probably make around 80k. My goal is to save near a million dollars for retirement and I’m not quite sure how to figure my retirement income. Can you guide me in the right direction?

First of all, great job on contributing to all those retirement accounts at such a young age! The earlier you can save for retirement, the longer that money will be working for you. This will definitely put you in a much better position for retirement.

The basic decision is whether you’d rather pay taxes on your savings now (Roth) or when you take them out of your retirement account (pre-tax). Assuming you’re single, you would currently be in the 25% tax bracket so every dollar you put in those retirement accounts pre-tax is avoiding a 25% tax rate. If you retire with a million dollars, you could safely withdraw about 4% or $40k a year. In addition to the $28k of Social Security benefits you’re projected to receive at your normal retirement age of 67, your $68k of total retirement income would put you in the same 25% tax bracket at retirement.

Not all your retirement income would be taxed at 25% though. Based on your total retirement income, only 85% or about $24k of your Social Security benefits would be taxable. At least about $10k of your income wouldn’t be taxed because of the personal exemption and standard deduction so your taxable income would be no more than about $54k. Using today’s tax rates (which are adjusted for inflation), the first $9,275 of taxable income would be taxed at 10%, the next $28,374 would be taxed at 15%, and only the last $16,351 would be taxed at that 25% rate. As a result, your average or effective tax rate in retirement would actually be about 17%.

Of course, this assumes that you don’t have a lot of deductions like mortgage interest that would go away by the time you retire. It also assumes that the tax code stays the same. If your effective tax rate ends up being higher in retirement, you would be better off with a Roth account.

Confused? One simple solution would be to diversify by contributing pre-tax to your employer’s retirement accounts as well as to a Roth IRA. That’s because the Roth IRA has the additional benefit of the contributions being available anytime without tax or penalty. It may also be helpful to have some tax-free money in retirement to qualify for higher health insurance subsidies if you decide to retire before you’re eligible for Medicare at age 65.

Don’t overthink it though. Whichever option (or combination of options) you choose, the most important thing is that you’re contributing for retirement. The less optimal option is still much better than not saving at all.

 

 

 

What I Wish I Had Known When I First Started Working

September 06, 2016

I don’t know about all of you, but the older, I get the faster time seems to go by. I feel like yesterday I was babysitting my kid’s friends and today I am watching them graduate from college. After one of my friend’s kids graduated from college, I went to a party celebrating the achievement. While at the party, I was listening to a conversation with my friend’s daughter and her friends, most of whom are also recent college graduates.  Luckily for them, we are in a better job market and almost all of them are either employed or getting ready to start new jobs.

As I listened to their conversation, I started to feel a sense of dread at the direction their conversation was going in. Their discussion was focused on getting paid the most money, moving to a “hot” new city (whatever that means) and what car they are going to buy themselves. I told them that the decisions you make your first working year will lay the foundation of their future financial success or demise – their choice. At that point, I had their undivided attention and I started talking to them about some of the things I wished I would had known when I first started working.

The best job is more than the highest salary. When I looked for my first job, the only thing I considered was the salary. I never stopped and considered that a lower salary that pays more benefits could net me a higher total compensation than a higher salary with crappy healthcare benefits. As you consider your next job, think carefully about the offer. How much will your new employer cover for healthcare benefits?

I also never considered my ability to grow my career. A higher future salary could easily outweigh a lower starting one. Consider how many opportunities you may have to progress in your future organization.

Your location will determine how far your money will go. One of the young women I spoke to was currently working in Georgia and thinking about a lateral career move to New York City. Being from Brooklyn, I told her she has to consider the difference in income and encouraged her to do a paycheck calculator to see what her net pay may look like with a move.  She was shocked at how much her net pay decreased.

Next ,I encouraged her to use a cost of living calculator to compare how far your income will go in one state or city vs. another. She needed almost a $30,000 increase in salary to maintain the same lifestyle she had in a small town in Georgia in New York City. If you are deciding on a move, consider doing a paycheck calculator and a cost of living calculator so you won’t go into sticker shock when you move.

The lower you keep your lifestyle now, the better quality of your lifestyle in the future. Remember that where you live now may not be where you will live in a few years so keep your home expenses to about 25%-30% of your net income so you have money left over for other goals and possibly a move. I pretty much went stupid when I got my first professional job. I convinced myself that I had to look the part and spent thousands on a wardrobe. You can look professional without going broke by shopping for high quality professional clothes at consignment shops.

Fortunately, I kept my old car though. This was probably one of the best decisions I made. I was easily able to make the move for a great career opportunity because I kept my expenses so low. If you end up getting a loan, consider following the 20/4/10 rule – put a 20% down payment, finance for no more than 4 years, and make sure the total monthly vehicle expenses (principal, interest and insurance) are no more than 10% of your gross monthly income.

Understand that good money management equals financial success. I wish I would have prioritized my finances better. I would have created a monthly spending plan that outlines ALL of my spending (including car maintenance, vacations, and gifts), saved 3-6 months of expenses, contributed at least enough to get my 401(k) match and attacked debt sooner. Use calculators like the Debt Blaster to come up with a game plan.

If you’re just starting your career, you have a tremendous opportunity to shape your financial future. Taking these steps before making a financial decision can go a long way to building a lifetime of financial success. You can do it!

 

 

 

What Our Planners Would Tell Someone Just Starting Their Career

September 02, 2016

Last week, I wrote about conversations I had with some newly hired recent college graduates. That post was about steps I talked about with them in our one-on-one coaching sessions   (all good stuff, if I must say so myself…and I must!) After I had written that and before it went live on our blog site, one of our other financial planners sent an email to the planning team to ask what advice they’d give someone starting their career today – a “what would you tell your 22 year old self” kind of email. Here are some of the responses from our planning team along with some of my editorial commentary (in italics):

Create a budget. I despise the word “budget.” I prefer “spending plan.” Figure out how much money is coming in and develop a spending plan that comes in well below the cash inflow.

Create a plan to move up or out of your current position in 3 years to stay relevant and in control of your career and salary. Always improve your skill set and fight for your own career. No one else will do it for you.

Start a side business based on your passion to help accelerate your debt payoff, increase savings and fund other financial goals that your salary might not cover. That side business could turn out to be what becomes your full time pursuit and source of greatest wealth in the long term, but you won’t have that chance if you don’t ever start it.

There is no need to show off to your friends because you are the one that landed the new job with cool title. The people with the flashy cars and lifestyle are usually either getting support from family members or are fueling that lifestyle with lots of debt.

Build friendships with those that are financially like-minded and encourage each other. It’s hard to be the only one that orders water instead of drinks almost every time you go out because you are the only one that has a spending plan. Don’t let peer pressure cause you to lose your spending discipline.

Use the same creative mindset you had in college as it pertains to money. If you could figure out a way to have a great weekend and only spend five bucks back in school, why should it change now that there is income. I joke that I had more cash flow when I was a starving college student than when I was a professional financial planner with a great job.

Get on a plan ASAP to pay off any student loans. It definitely needs to be a part of the budget. A time frame for them to be paid off would be best. Don’t just elect deferment or forbearance because it’s an option. Truth.

Set up an intentional savings account, even if it’s just $25 to start. Set up a transfer of at least $25 a paycheck to get in the habit of seeing how painless it is. Then boost it to get to $2,500 within the next year. An emergency fund can prevent the need to tap into credit cards when the car needs brakes and tires.

Don’t take on a deluxe apartment or mortgage until the student loans have been dealt with. They’re a mortgage in their own right. Live way below your means. Americans spend way too much on housing as a rule.

Get the match at work at the very least if you have student loans and try for 10% or more deferral if you don’t have student loans or after they’re under control. Early saving is HUGE in your financial future.

Be thoughtful about what you spend your money on. You work hard for it. Set a 30 minute weekly money meeting with yourself to go over your finances. Whether you’re just starting out or have been in your career for decades, this is just flat out solid advice.

This is a lot of info, but it’s an especially useful list for recent grads just getting started. The decisions they make now will have a huge impact on the rest of their financial life. My daughter is beginning her senior year of college so in less than a year, she’ll be graduating, and I’ll be printing out this blog post and last week’s to help her get her financial life started in the best way possible.

 

 

4 Financial Moves I’m Glad I Made in My 20s

August 31, 2016

It’s easy to dwell on the shoulda, coulda, woulda’s of our past – those things we wish we’d done differently. But I’m also a big believer in reflecting on what went right! After all, if history is bound to repeat itself, wouldn’t we want the good stuff to repeat as well? So here are the financial moves I made in my earlier years that I would be glad to repeat.

Contributed to the match in my 401(k) since day 1. It’s worth noting that with my first two employers, I actually didn’t get to keep my full match as I left the companies before I was vested, but I still had the money I’d saved to start my nest egg. I also had the established habit of saving as I went on to higher-earning jobs, where I eventually qualified for and got to keep the match. So even if you’re quite certain you won’t be around long enough to keep matching dollars, you should still save enough to earn it. You never know when plans might change, and it’s silly to give up the chance at free money. Isn’t that why we buy lottery tickets?

Aggressively paid off credit card debt. There have been two occasions in my life when I used credit cards to get through times of income challenges. Both times I also reached a point when it was time to pay them off, and I committed to an aggressive monthly payment in order to eradicate the debt as quickly as possible. I also put any windfalls toward the debt, including things like tax refunds (Remember the “stimulus” checks we all received in 2001? Mine went straight to VISA), work bonuses and freelance income. I also made sure my spending reflected my desire to get out of debt and saved the luxuries as my reward for financial dieting. The Financial Finesse Debt Blaster calculator is a great way to make a debt pay-off plan.

Participated in my employee stock purchase plan. I’ve worked for three publicly traded companies that offered employee stock purchase plans, which basically allow employees to buy stock in the company at a discount through payroll deductions. This is another example of free money but was also a fun way to build up some side savings that made me care a little bit more about how my company did beyond just my own job. I never invested more than I could afford to lose, so in all three cases, I was just saving a small amount, but it was worth it to have that little investment nest egg that I could access before retirement. Caution though: make sure that your investment in any one company doesn’t exceed more than 15% of your total investments. If your employer match goes into company stock too, keep an eye on when you may need to diversify out of the stock.

Earned my BODYPUMPTM certification. What the heck does teaching a fitness class have to do with finances? Well, since I became a certified instructor in 2005, I’ve not had to pay for a gym membership, plus I get paid to work out. It’s not a ton of money, but it’s better than paying to work out! I try to make the most of it by transferring 50% of my BODYPUMPTM pay into a separate savings account. I can’t quantify the health benefits of teaching three times per week, but suffice to say, I probably wouldn’t make it to the gym more than once a week if I wasn’t paid to be there, so it’s worth it for the health benefits too.

How about you? What financial moves did you make early on that are paying off today? Please share them with me on Facebook or Twitter.

Did you know you can sign up to receive my blog posts every week, delivered straight to your inbox? Just head over to our blog main page, enter your email address and select which topics or bloggers’ posts you’d like to receive. Obviously I suggest at least ‘Posts from Kelley.’ Thanks for reading!

 

 

My Advice to Recent College Grads

August 26, 2016

At one of our client sites, I was able to meet with about a dozen new hires, all of whom are very recent college graduates. They are starting their first “real jobs” and want to get their financial lives off on the right foot. During training, it was suggested that they sign up for a one-on-one financial coaching session, and many of them took HR up on that suggestion.

I had a blast during those sessions because most of the kids (yeah, I’ll call them that because I have a daughter roughly the same age) who came in said that they had no idea how to handle their new income. They were fine while in college, working summer jobs or some part-time jobs during school for spending money. But being out in the real world, with real responsibilities like bills to pay and student loans coming out of deferral, was a wee bit scary for many of them.

While they all had different incomes and amounts of student loan debt, there was a lot of common ground with this group.  My daughter is only a year behind them, so I can already see the conversation we are going to have next summer when she lands her first job. In that discussion, I’ll ask her to do a few of the things that came up in the sessions last week.  For recent college graduates or anyone looking to get their financial life started on the right track, here are some principles and tools that I think can help build the foundation of the financial life that should lead to long term financial security.

Spend less than you make and know where your money goes.

Mint is a great free tool to track spending. With the alerts feature, get a text message when you hit your monthly budget for one or two “hot spots“ in your budget (where you think you might overspend). The Mint app on my phone is how I start almost every morning. You can also go old school Excel with this Expense Tracker. However you do it, understand where your money is going and make sure that you spend less than you make.

Automate your savings.

Make sure that you are contributing to your 401(k) in an amount that is equal to or greater than your employer’s match.  If possible, get your contribution plus the match to be 15-20% of your compensation. If you can’t do that right away, enroll in the rate escalator feature of your 401(k) or make it a habit to increase your contribution by 1% every time you get a pay increase.

Set up a savings account in a bank or credit union that isn’t your primary bank. The goal is to create a speed bump between you and your money so that the savings grow all the time. Once the account is set up, get a direct deposit (something small like $10, $20, or $50 per pay so that it’s not a burden) going into that account with each paycheck. That’s going to be your long term emergency fund and perhaps the down payment on your first house.

Always know your credit score.

No one should ever have to pay for their credit score. That’s a sentence that I firmly believe. The good news is that with free services offered by Credit Karma and CreditSesame , you can track your credit score and see your credit reports at any time.  (Checking your own score is NOT going to count as an inquiry and have a negative impact on your score.) Both sites also have great alerts, phone apps and tips for how you can increase your credit score over time.

Pay down debt rapidly. Debt is NOT your friend.

Use this Debt Inventory to keep a record of who you owe and how much. Enter your current debts and save it as “August 2016” debt. Then when you get your next batch of statements, update the sheet and save as “Sept 2016.” Update until they are at $0. Print them out so that you can track the progress you’re making on a monthly basis.

Pay only the minimum on all debts except the one with the highest rate of interest. Circle that one with a red pen and consider it your enemy. Throw every ounce of financial energy you have into eliminating that debt. When it’s gone, lather – rinse – repeat.

As the foundation of a long term secure financial future, these steps will help get you to a place where you’re never really worried about money. While they look very simple (because they ARE!), most people that I meet with are not doing these very basic steps. If you start your career with them, you will get your financial life well ahead of most of America and of your peer group.

 

 

4 Financial Moves I Wish I’d Made in My 20’s

August 24, 2016

Whenever I have the opportunity to work with an employee who is just starting their career by calling the Financial Helpline to make sure they’re making all the right financial moves, I can’t help but gush a little bit. This simple phone call often sets into motion actions and habits that will legitimately change the course of this person’s life. I often wonder how my life would have been different if I’d had the Financial Helpline to call for unbiased financial guidance from someone who would have given me a straight answer, no strings attached. If I could turn back time, here’s what I’d have done differently:

Joined an HSA plan as soon as it was offered. I still remember the hoopla in the financial services community when health savings accounts were first rolled out, but I didn’t get it. I wasn’t yet a financial planner, so I didn’t fully understand why anyone would sign up for a health insurance plan that could cause them to pay full price for the first couple thousand dollars in healthcare expenses each year, and didn’t even consider signing up. Similar to many people’s logic, I avoided the HSA due to the high-deductible without taking into consideration the fact that my employer was willing to fund some (or all) of that deductible and based on my lack of health issues, I was unlikely to spend even that. By the time I realized the beauty of the HSA, I only had a couple years before it was time to switch to more comprehensive coverage since I knew my costs were going to increase.

Opened and funded a Roth IRA. I’ll never forget the day I stepped into my co-worker Tom’s office and asked him to open a brokerage account for me to begin investing in an index fund with the extra money I had been paying toward my low-interest student loan. Tom looked at me and said, “Are you sure you don’t want to use that money to fund a Roth IRA instead of a taxable account?” I nodded, thinking that I didn’t want to kiss that money goodbye for the next 35 years, so I opted for a regular brokerage account.

I was wrong. Had I instead used that money to fund a Roth IRA, I still would have had access to my deposits without tax or penalty, and I would never have to pay taxes on the growth of my investments after age 59 1/2. When asked by young people about priorities in savings, I never waiver in my answer:

  1. First get the match in your 401k. It’s free money, enough said.
  2. Then max out your HSA. If you don’t need the money tax-free for healthcare expenses, you can access it like a normal retirement account after age 65. It’s also often free money.
  3. Then fund a Roth IRA. While you are still under the income limits and the money has years to grow, take advantage of it.

Created a pet care fund. I adopted my first cat, Hattie May, my senior year of college and over the course of her short 13 year life, I estimate that I spent at least $5,000 on her care. The worst part about this is that I should’ve spent more to take care of her issues, but because I didn’t have money set aside, I skimped. This is something I’ll forever regret and I often wonder if she’d still be alive today if I’d prioritized saving for her costs. Here’s what I should’ve done: find out the cost of pet insurance for annual visits plus emergency care and then instead of buying the insurance, set that amount aside each month into a separate savings account. That way when things did come up, I would’ve had money available and if nothing came up, I wouldn’t be out the money.

Spent less money on cheap clothes. Confession: I engage in retail therapy with the best of them. I just wish I could go back to those early years and made a few less trips to stores like Old Navy and Target, where I succumbed to merchandising brilliance and bought clothes I maybe wore twice. I could’ve re-routed that money toward Hattie’s fund or a Roth IRA. The worst part is that when I went through periods of closet-cleaning during those years, I didn’t receive any tax benefit from donating those clothes as my itemized deductions weren’t high enough to qualify.

What I wish I’d done is put a limit on myself for impulse shopping. I don’t believe in going cold turkey. I do think we can all handle moderation though.

I can’t turn back time, but I can share the wisdom of my mistakes so here’s hoping you can learn from mine. What financial moves do you wish you could do over? Let me know on Facebook or send me a tweet.

Did you know you can sign up to receive my blog posts every week, delivered straight to your inbox? Just head over to our blog main page, enter your email address and select which topics or bloggers’ posts you’d like to receive. Obviously, I suggest at least “Posts from Kelley.” Thanks for reading!